jacsmiley

haha ok to clear things up.... im going to have fun RWD with the cheap replacement box i will rebuild my oe one while its rwd to put back in wen i kill the cheap replacement. just wanted to know if the dccd controller and the engine ecu comunicate with eachother. thanks for the input guys

just a question for all you big players out there ive got a 98 V5 typeR and have just stripped 2nd gear right.... : not because im a newbie, just they dont last for ever driving them the way i do!! DCCD is awesome!! now im not rolling in the $$$ so ive lined up a turbo gearbox (unknown ks) that is RWD for cheap. my question is... im suspecting the engine check light will come on as i wont have the dccd in while running it with a different gearbox. or does it run completely seperate from the engine ecu?? does anyone have a RWD TypeR or know someone who does and can fill me in a bit?? im pretty sure my R180 will be up to the task (dont really care about the cheap rwd g-box) as it still feels mint and i didnt have any troubles with my V4 typer diff after 2yrs of clutch kicks!! all so.. anyone have any hook ups on gearbox parts?? ill rebuild my factory g-box while its rwd and put it back in when the replacement one grenades ;D

semi helical above. the teeth arent quite as steeply sloped as standard gears straight cut gears are noisy where as standard gears are made to be durable and quiet and have 3-4 teeth in constant mesh to make stronger gears you need more meat on the teeth so a semi helical gear isnt straight and is quite stronger than standard. slightly more noise bugger it..... straight cut gears and dog engagement anyone?????

do they bolt up davo? what you got in yours?

stripped 2nd gear..... does that count????

depends as cost is a big issue. id love to buy a gear set and rebuild it with semi-helical 2nd to 4th gears and standard 1st & 5th but i think i might work towards rebuliding the shotty shaft and new syncros throughout and get a 2nd box for rwd conversion ;D

its alright...you can just drive around it : haha yeah its not too bad as the typeR has close enough ratios to skip 2nd but its damaged 3rd syncro and needs time to engage. aahh well cant expect it to hold up forever driving it the way i do ;D

STRIPPED/LOST 2ND GEAR

Jacsmiley joins,Matdaymon, deathz0r, GC8E2DD and Koom on the gutted couch... :'( jelous much!! just didnt have the funds to be there.....

haha yeah as above!! cheers newsuba!!!

yeah was that guy in the light house porche wasnt it? ended up totalling it!!

hope you have something in mind to replace it!! fitted new front brake pads (30mins start to finish!) and installed new O2 sensor brakes feel good but thats cold (wonder if they'll hand a few hard stops in a row??????) and dont know if the sensor is helping the fuel thing yet RBF600 through the lines in the weekend and hit some corners!!! oh and re-bleed the clutch too

i wouldve thought a hoody is a two hole pocket at the front no zips??? navy/subaru blue or black/white hoody??? club sub or club sub logo up one sleeve??? user name or number plate on the back (hood will hang down covering top so maybe down bottom?) subaru stars/clubsub logo on one side of the chest if the logo doesnt go on the sleeve dunno would be interesting to know how much were allowed to print on under $80

yes offset is gonna be the big player here 215's will be sweet though

sounds like you had your foot resting on the clutch for that 10k and cooked the thrust/release bearing does it make that sound while driving? is more like a chattering noise?

very good point here!! ive been a victim of this but it was may half arsed wiring in a mates car!! by memory it was where i had earthed the main earth or the illumination wire??

are all your fuses "in" and fine? i dunno if that will help but my mates car did funny electrical things when one of his fuses blew. we couldnt work it out because the car still ran fine. the lights wouldnt go without the fan being on and the fuse for the cabin lights was fine but the cabin lights werent working! random **** like that. i also plugged the "green" plugs togeather under the steering colum (they were the wrong plugs to join up) to find my fault codes. it turned the fans and the intercooler sprayer on in the engine bay and kept priming the fuel pump. you could check to see that theyre not pluged in????? good luck on that :-\

the moment you make a break in the brake line regardless of where it is you should bleed them. you wont have broken anything without force

Name: Darren, D, Daz Location: Hamilton Number: 027-257-0158 Email: [email protected] Car: 98 V5 STI Coupe TypeR "EVOETR"

haha need a "like" button!! replaced the front pads and about to replace the O2 sensor 8)

good man!!

the squeeling noise was probably the wear indicators. two bent peices of steel that "scratch/squeel" against the rotor when the pad wears down. ive only just bent mine out of the way to stop the noise and have ordered replacements today actually!!

assuming you dont have four pots?? and if not you probly have single/double piston calipers which are simple if you're mechanically minded. they're just a bit fidly buy cheap/expensive pads if you want or buy OE (genuine) up to you. your wallet is your limit. your selling the car i wouldnt have a clue what MG brakes are like but the majority of brake calipers are bolted to the wheel hub buy two bolts 14mm i think??? but you should be able to get away with any old socket set, a big pair of polly grips or a g-clamp (ive had F-4pots/R-2pots for years and they're simple and easy. no need for tools really) what condition are your rotors (discs) in? thinkness of the rotor? they need to be over the minimum thickness (youll need to find out what that is 22/24mm i think) and evenly worn (thickness between braking face and central air vent. each side should be even thinkness there or about) are the braking surfaces flat, or wavey with small grooves like stones have been previously stuck? if theyre not flat you'll need to get them machined flat. or you can do it by halves and just leave them. but they should be machined at least loosen both 14mm bolts and remove the bottom one allowing the caliper and pads to hinge up (you may need to undo the clip holding the brake line to the strut) if it fouls (hits) anything you'll need to undo the 2nd 14mm bolt and remove caliper completely CAUTION dont let the caliper hang by the brake line as you could damage it causing brake failure! you should have floating rotors, and at this stage you should be able to remove them now to get them machined if they need to be leave the piston side pad in and use the polly grips/Gclamp to depress the piston/s back using the pad as a guard for the piston (may take a bit to move them back in at first) now the used pads have clips and plates holding them "snug" into the caliper. you need to re-use these so be carefull not to damage/loose them. basically use everything that comes off the old pads on the replacement ones. with both pads in, slide the caliper back onto the rotor and re-position the caliper back to original position and reassemble everything that you removed providing your braking system is in good health. what ive said above should get you through. good luck! if at any stage you think "that doesnt seem right" ask someone!

oh yesterday put some pads up front (old half worn ones till today as current pads were sooo close to metal on metal!) traced the reason my subs werent working (dam fuse that looked pefectly fine. multimeter says no!) so today buy new fuse buy new pads get covered in brake dust. realise that i now have hand marks in the brake dust on my mags (slotted rotors = constant brake dust) provoking me to wash the car while listening to the doof doof!! ;D oooh oooh motul RBF600 anyone? dam need to find a mate who isnt working to give me a hand with that!!

yep noticed a huge downgrade in handling going to rwd, so expecting it to all come back... downgrade? is that because traction is a big issue? im contemplating the conversion purely for the skids but wouldnt of thought it was much of a downgrade? i by no means think that you can push the chassis as hard as you could 4wd as ive been in my mates one and no for sure you cant just bury your foot mid corner