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Knock Sensor Issue


xsvpwr

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Hey guys,

So used a can of upper engine cleaner this afternoon and didn't blow as much smoke as I was expecting but throttle response & idle are amazing compared to prior. Took it for a test run down the motorway to Petone and back into town after doing the plug in both green + black plugs get over 11kph blinking CEL thing (to get rid of Knock Sensor code that was already present), felt like a new car driving out to Petone and back with no CEL coming on at all, get back into town and slow down to 50kph and CEL comes on again... Go back on to the motorway to conduct a little test and after a couple of km's CEL goes off again...back into town to go park up at home and it comes back on again. I do have a replacement knock sensor but if I can pinpoint the problem without having to go to the hassle of replacing it I would be stoked.

Any ideas guys?

I was thinking along the lines of its nice and cool with plenty of air flowing to Pod filter (through a vacuum (as in household vaccum) hose that goes down below front right fog light and up to Pod) but then when it gets into town too much heat in the engine bay causing something to happen to throw CEL?? I am probably completely off target so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Ben

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Guest boostcut

and a vac hose wont supply alot of air when your in standstill traffic, id build a nice alloy box for your filter or fit original airbox back in...

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nah no pinking (but then again I didn't know what it was), seems to only be when put putting around town that CEL comes on, yeah I thought it was bizarre that it hates 98 too, immediate CEL and limp home mode as soon as I put it in, did it twice so haven't been doing it since. I'm thinking factory airbox, anyone have one for sale?

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my man boostin, I was waiting for someone to say that. I guess at motorway speeds the engine is being cooled enough to keep sensor happy and when down to low speeds just gets a bit warm and sensor f's out. Looks like a fun project for the weekend ;D

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Guest boostin

First, make sure there are no cracks in the casing.

Check it with a multimeter, the resistance from the connector pin to the metal ring in the middle where the bolt goes through should be 400k Ohms or more. Warm it up and retest it too.

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