Rose Joints

[Doris]

Where do you get yours?

Would PTFE lined general purpose rose joints be OK for steering joints?

Also if anyone else owns an ACE, and decides they need more lock-to-lock..

Well good news! The B chassis Honda prelude tie rods will bolt in to the rack, and simultaneously extend the fulcrum point toward the wheel by a noticeable amount, without using lock-spacers!

And thats a $50 pair of performance market spec tie rods

Downside to them (I consider it an upside) the Honda ones are 12mm rod diameter, OEM Subaru are 10mm (and bend when you get your ace vert!)

So new rod ends are the go...

But not a simple bolt up either, as the knuckle hole is 10mm so the rose joint bearing needs to also be 10mm. Now industry standard is that the threaded end of the rose joint directly correlates to the bearing hole size.

So no big deal, get 10mm rose joints (Teflon is a must for joint life) and then bore the female end out and tap it with a 12mmx M1.25 thread.

You\'ll also need to turn a tapered spacer for the knuckle hole, and attach the rose joint with a hi tensile bolt and spacers either side, which I\'ll go into more detail later, and add photos.

[Tony]

In my opinion/experience, its best to bite the bullet and only use really good quality rose joints for steering arms. I use Aurora motorsport grade rod ends. Was previously using QA1 rod ends and found that they would develop play in them after each event, and was regularly replacing them due to being paranoid of them failing on me. Have had the Aurora ones in there for 3 years now and had no issues with them at all (multiple race meetings/track days done on them).

I got mine through Barry at MRP (I think he offers deals to clubsub members?). Otherwise Autoquip in Auckland are also suppliers of Aurora these days (www.autoquip.co.nz)