1999 Rev A BE5 boosting issue

[RobMinhas]

Hey guys, I have a 99 Rev A BE5. Current mods are hose 10 mod, hose 1 mod, primary DP decat, midpipe cat and res delete, relocated boost control solenoid, full silicone hose replacement(including BBOD) and silicone intercooler/TB couplers. Boost was 12 lbs on the primary and 15 lbs on both.

Story starts about a month ago, transmission needed replacing, replaced it with no issue. After a quick up and down the street test, during which the car acted normally(boosted normally as well). Came back to install exhaust properly(just zip tied the flange at the DP to mid pipe). Whomever did the cat and res delete on my midpipe did it so it wasn't quite straight with the DP flange so to line them up I jacked up on the DPs, I believe I jacked it up too much and it caused my primary up-pipe to develop a crack. I started to make about 3 lbs of boost on the primary.

While trying to figure out my issue, I drove the car with different boost control(mbc, bypassing ebcs, etc) and it ruined the turbo(excessive shaft play). I then replaced the turbo with a known good unit as well as the up-pipe. Car was back to the 12/15 lbs psi boost pressure again. I then re-installed my strut bar(which was removed during the trans swap) and the relocated EBCS wiring was pinched, causing the car to boost at primary wastegate pressure + secondary which in my situation is 7/11 lbs. I've since cut out the relocating wiring and replaced it with new wire(teh pinched portion was showing damage but no scorch marks) but the problem has persisted.

With the green connectors under the dash attached, the EBCS clicks as it should and I've tried replacing the EBCS with a Version 6 STI EBCS with no change. Putting a multi-meter on the EBCS wiring shows that with the key at teh ACC position, 12.5V(or battery voltage) on the positive side and 0.39 volts at the negative side. They appear to have continuity as well with the key removed.

I have tried putting my GFB Atomic MBC on the primary turbo and was unable to raise the boost, this may be because the MBC is broken or because I'm not properly boosting on the primary.

I appear to have no boost leaks, the car idles like a dream when warm and while cold it will fluctuate a bit, something I expect has to do more with the idle air control valve then a possible boost leak. No other symptoms of a boost leak while driving.

I believe that either my ECU is not sending the right signal to the EBCS or the wiring is not allowing for said signal. I'm not sure where in teh wiring to tackle it either, is teh EBCS circuit within the engine harness? CHassis harness? Not super familiar with subaru wiring so I may have my terminology wrong here.

Anyone have any ideas? Things to try? I'm at my wits end here and am almost at the point where I'm just going to throw parts at it.

TL;DR:

Making 7 lbs of boost on the primary, 11 lbs on both turbos when I used to make 12/15. EBCS issue or primary boosting issue. Looking for help.

[Marky]

Moving the solenoid would have meant new hoses ya?

Is the restrictor pill still in place

Plan B - try it with a working manual controller

This can mean a 50c hose fitting from mitre ten btw

[les666]

Did you fix the crack in your primary up pipe?

[RobMinhas]

 Marky']Moving the solenoid would have meant new hoses ya?

Is the restrictor pill still in place

Plan B - try it with a working manual controller

This can mean a 50c hose fitting from mitre ten btw

Yes, new hoses on the vac line, made sure the pill was back in place(made that mistake once haha)

Will try plan B hopefully tomorrow, gotta bum an MBC off of a friend.

Can you elaborate on what you mean about the hose fitting?

[quote name='les666 said:

Did you fix the crack in your primary up pipe?

I did not, rather replaced the primary up-pipe with another. Sorted out the exhaust's crooked flange as well so it wouldn't happen again.

[lachlan]

Hook a spring on the wastegate .

Check the waste gate isnt stuck open ?

Also suck on the hoses to both bovs and see if they hold vacuum . Seeing quite a few that have holed a diaphram

[RobMinhas]

The wastegate doesn't appear to be stuck open, I've removed the circlet and the valve opens and closes normally as well as teh actuator arm has resistence when moved.

I will try to see if the BOVs hold vacuum though.

[Marky]

It makes boost, and the fact it makes different boost on primary and secondary suggests to me that it is still being controlled by the ECU. Mine have all run 7psi on primary and secondary when run on WG pressure only.

Just unplug the hose running to the boost controller, jam something with an opening approx half the size of the vacuum hose in the end of it, and see what boost levels you have. Ideally the thing should be adjustable (the aforementioned needle valve used in garden irrigation is perfect) so you can fine tune the bleed off

My advice is turfing the factory boost control anyway, it is a much nicer drive with some pressure in down low

Does it still come on boost as quick as before or is it really lazy?

Also... Why did you move the solenoid? Haha

[RobMinhas]

I unplugged teh EBCS and got no change in boost level so maybe it is ecu controlled but I don't believe so. Wastegate pressure is 7 lbs for me and the 4 lbs on top of that is what I believe my secondary boosts, I could be incorrect though.

I'll try with the valve once I get the chance to grab one, see if that does anything.

I will be turfing the factory boost control, i'm just hoping my issue is related to factory boost control rather then the turbo incorrectly boosting and untll I can find a known good Manual boost controller I can't say what it is for sure, I'll be borrowing a friends over the weekend.

Boost comes on quick as before, not lazily(as it did with the cracked up pipe), only way it's drivable as it is haha.

As for the relocation, I was recommended it buy a bg5 owner and I found it reduced boost creep once done as well.

[RobMinhas]

Thought I would update this..

Didn't get a chance to figure this problem out as a BMW 335 blew a stop sign and totalled my car.