What front & rear strut braces will fit to a bg5?....& suspension tech tips pls

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

...was amazed today.......i fit some 2nd hand tein adjustables into my bg5 wagon that wer out of a 94 wrx and with them all wound right down the guards sat perfectly level with the tyres (not under the guards i must add) but perfectly in line with each other and the 1st test drive even without a wheel alignment was amazing.....the handling was 10 fold better and i like the firmness of the ride now too as you can actually feel how your car grabs to the road alot more...so im thinking of upgrading many more suspension parts starting with the strut braces...

my question is wot model strut braces will fit both front and rear of a bg5?....and wot other worth while suspension upgrades should i also consider that will help my 300kw engine transplant nxt yr and maybe the odd trip to the race track for fun days?...cheers guys

[Guest]

 vf20/21bg5 said:

my question is wot model strut braces will fit both front and rear of a bg5?....and wot other worth while suspension upgrades should i also consider that will help my 300kw engine transplant nxt yr and maybe the odd trip to the race track for fun days?...cheers guys

Bigger anti roll bars

Brake brace

Brake pads

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 Qwerty']

[quote name='vf20/21bg5 said:

my question is wot model strut braces will fit both front and rear of a bg5?....and wot other worth while suspension upgrades should i also consider that will help my 300kw engine transplant nxt yr and maybe the odd trip to the race track for fun days?...cheers guys

/quote]

Bigger anti roll bars

Brake brace

Brake pads

ok cool what sway bars should i be looking at getting for my gt then?

[Guest boostcut]

some aftermarket whiteline ones, the sti wont make much of a difference to the whale of a legacy, i have a front slut brace for you if you want it, $120

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 boostcut said:

some aftermarket whiteline ones, the sti wont make much of a difference to the whale of a legacy, i have a front slut brace for you if you want it, $120

hi,is it adjustable and is it the type that hugs the bulkhead as i have alot of pipe work in the way for the str8 ones as u can see here,cheershttp://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af181/bluefluffzzz/car019.jpg?t=1261300858

http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af181/bluefluffzzz/car019.jpg?t=1261300858[/img]

[Guest]

 vf20/21bg5 said:

....and wot other worth while suspension upgrades should i also consider

Start by raising up those coilovers a couple of inches.

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 stance']

[quote name='vf20/21bg5 said:

....and wot other worth while suspension upgrades should i also consider/quote]

Start by raising up those coilovers a couple of inches.

...huh??????...is that a logical decision for what im after out of my vehicle??.....i was told over the years of study while i was a automotive engineer and even in my pre-trade study that the lower the center point of gravity the better it will stick to the rd at low and especially high speeds...the same with any machine on wheels that u want to go fast around corners and/or stick to the rd...( boats even ...hydroplains etc....lol)..

...may i ask why you suggest to take my cars center of gravity higher rather than lower if what i want is for my car to handle better on street and track use?...very curious..cheers

[Guest]

Whiteline anti roll bars are only a few mm thicker than stock so they should fit.

If you go too low you start mucking up the standard suspension geometry and you will lose grip.

As the front end of the suspension compresses your camber becomes positive - ie your camber curve

Also you get dynamic toe - under compression.

The lower your car the worse this problem is.

[Guest boostin]

Stolen from Millers V9 STI thread.....

 loren said:

Take it lower miller. everyone knows COG is the only metric worth measuring when

setting up a great handling car. It's kind of like the speed of light and time travel,

in that it's been theorized that a car that actually sit underground would be able to

go around corners faster than sound, because gravity would no longer affect it laterally.

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 boostin']

Stolen from Millers V9 STI thread.....

[quote name='loren said:

Take it lower miller. everyone knows COG is the only metric worth measuring when

setting up a great handling car. It's kind of like the speed of light and time travel,

in that it's been theorized that a car that actually sit underground would be able to

go around corners faster than sound, because gravity would no longer affect it laterally.

/quote]

OMG...what the......lol

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 Qwerty said:

Whiteline anti roll bars are only a few mm thicker than stock so they should fit.

If you go too low you start mucking up the standard suspension geometry and you will lose grip.

As the front end of the suspension compresses your camber becomes positive - ie your camber curve

Also you get dynamic toe - under compression.

The lower your car the worse this problem is.

....too true i remember that about the dynamic toe plus i think the caster angles change too...i do have camber adjusters at the top of my tein adjustables and my wheels arnt under the guards and dont scrape anything in the wheel arches as thy did with my super lows which tells you that all its done is stiffened up the suspension and taken away alot of travel.........and taken it about 20mm lower than the super lows ....i will be getting a wheel alignment asap too

[Guest]

You are right in that a lower CG helps overall grip but with Subaru's MP design the camber curve is much more of an issue. It is basically going one step ahead in terms of CG and three backward in terms of the worse camber curve. There are ways to band aid this with high spring rates, big sways, loads of static camber and of course RCA's but with your current setup your car is still relatively soft and will roll enough to see the ugly side of the camber curve. Another issue is the roll center dropping below ground height which will cause the car to roll more than it would at stock height. Then like you said above there is the bumpsteer which isn't as big of an issue.

Raise the car up to a little below stock height and take it for another hard drive and you will definitely see what I am saying. You might also find some negative rake helps the car too. The fact that you have just come from kings springs on stock struts (?) will make you think the car is alot more capable now with the Tein's but with it properly setup you will be far more impressed.

What alignment are you planning on running when you get around to it?

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 stance said:

You are right in that a lower CG helps overall grip but with Subaru's MP design the camber curve is much more of an issue. It is basically going one step ahead in terms of CG and three backward in terms of the worse camber curve. There are ways to band aid this with high spring rates, big sways, loads of static camber and of course RCA's but with your current setup your car is still relatively soft and will roll enough to see the ugly side of the camber curve. Another issue is the roll center dropping below ground height which will cause the car to roll more than it would at stock height. Then like you said above there is the bumpsteer which isn't as big of an issue.

Raise the car up to a little below stock height and take it for another hard drive and you will definitely see what I am saying. You might also find some negative rake helps the car too. The fact that you have just come from kings springs on stock struts (?) will make you think the car is alot more capable now with the Tein's but with it properly setup you will be far more impressed.

What alignment are you planning on running when you get around to it?

ok i understand what you meen now and makes complete sence...i will increase the ride height back up another 25-30mm as not to upset the standard suspesion settings too much and get a wheel alignmnt asking for standard settings to be set as ill be driving it under normal conditions up untill i get my new 300kw engine late nxt year and then ill play around with it abit more on the performance handling side....or by then i may have wanted to turn to another body for my engine to run in.....maybe an my99 or my00

[Guest]

Sounds good.

When you are ready to get a proper alignment shoot for around 2 - 2.5 degrees of negative camber up front for a street setup and make sure they get as much as possible of that 2 degrees through the camber bolts as opposed to getting it through the plates, this way it keeps the SAI down (high SAI leads to camber loss). The plates also need to be even side to side with the camber bolts doing the fine adjustments.

Even for this temporary alignment ask for 0 toe, shouldn't cost you anymore than just a 'green' alignment.

Take it easy with 300kw

[Guest boostcut]

300kw? really?

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 boostcut said:

300kw? really?

....300kw max! so id be aiming for between 280 and 300 with my setup....ive never put so much money into a car b4 so this time im going the whole hogg.....aprox 5g for block work,2g for headwork,(both these being done as we speak by myslf and engine reconditioners around the country)...and 9g for accessories including link,twisted turbo and all the bits & peices that add up to alot within the engine bay.......then about 3g on upgrading drivetrain with alot stronger componants and anti flex/roll top and bottom including custom roll cage(better than nothing & not only used to protect the ocupants but to supply the body with anti flex capabilities too.... use to build them wen i worked in a exhaust and brake shop many many yrs ago)....so it will be about a $20,000 build over 1 year and plan to have it on the rd by xmas nxt year so i have 4 weeks during the holidays to tweek and test run things non stop......but i do also realise tweeking things will be never ending in somthing this far from standard but hey thats wot im into...making and customising a machine built by your own hands basicly

[Guest vf20/21bg5]

 stance said:

Sounds good.

When you are ready to get a proper alignment shoot for around 2 - 2.5 degrees of negative camber up front for a street setup and make sure they get as much as possible of that 2 degrees through the camber bolts as opposed to getting it through the plates, this way it keeps the SAI down (high SAI leads to camber loss). The plates also need to be even side to side with the camber bolts doing the fine adjustments.

Even for this temporary alignment ask for 0 toe, shouldn't cost you anymore than just a 'green' alignment.

Take it easy with 300kw

...ok i will do as you say seing you certainly do know what you are talking about..(will be doing alot of upgrading late nxt year to suspension and drivetrain componants on wotever body i choose but this will see me thru till then 4 sure,cheers heaps