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Showing content with the highest reputation on 21/09/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Go genuine,Subaru have made changes to the idler bearings.Was also told the genuine belt gives more accurate timing and that the variable cam timing is harder on belts.MRT Performance YouTube “Old vs new Ej cam and timing belt comparison,what to look for” just posted.
  2. 2 points
    Should go genuine for cambelt parts. Could offer to make up the cost difference between the aftermarket and genuine parts.
  3. 1 point
    @Subirex Automotive is the go to Subaru mechanic in Auckland. They're really knowledgeable and fair on price.
  4. 1 point
    Hey man. Can't thank you enough for putting time aside to help me understand my cars tune. I feel more assured I won't break anything now. (Or yet) for the time being anyway. My moneychanic has had the gearbox out twice now. Once when he did the clutch about 20k k's ago and recently when he replaced the engine. The gearbox has had a lot of strain on it with the hks kit I guess. But surely he lubricated the bearings etc at the time of removal. Who knows. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
  5. 1 point
    Have been in this car, story checks out haha. Very odd. When was the clutch done, it sounded more flywheel/clutch/spigot/thrust bearing location but super hard to tell. If the thrust and spigot bearing were not replaced with the clutch it could be that? But I think you might be right in assuming its something going bad in the gearbox... It might be cheaper to bin the trans and pickup a lower milage one. 5 Speeds can be had for $300-400 these days and then its just a straight swap, rather than full teardown and diagnosis. Could flick the old one off as noisy but functioning to get some cash back. Hope others on here can chime in as i'm mostly lost on this too
  6. 1 point
    nothing behind the glove box that turns up the boost - unless its a hidden boost controller setup there from factory there is no wiring there to do any boost changes. the pump change is just a safety measure and also means after a tune you will not be potentially running out of fuel pressure etc.. check the boost solenoid and see if its still stock and maybe peek behind the glove box in case it does have a hidden unit for the sound - ur stuck with the twin scroll sound but with the right muffler it does sound pretty nice (i somewhat prefer it over the traditional one actually - the x-force mufflers seem pretty good but im sure there are others) what was the result of the compression test?