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Yea my issues were avcs being intermittent and not respecting the target table. Which came down to the cam pulleys, apparently it is common practice to replace the cam pulleys when rebuilding a engine. I didn't change mine when my first engine ran BEB and I didn't have the screen filters, so def some metal would've gone through it. You can rebuild them however, but its a process. Here is a link on how to: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2713834 Also the avcs doesn't work when the engine is cold. The coolant temp/oil temp will need to be > 70-80 degrees. So I would suggest warming up the vehicle and then taking it for a drive and log and see if the avcs behaves.

Ended up grabbing the standard 600A Powerall one. The local H&F didn't have the Element or XL3 in stock which made the choice much easier. The 600A one with a speaker didn't really interest me for what it'll be used for. Will report back later tonight once I've had a go starting the Legacy. Was seriously considering the smaller 950A projecta one, Repco currently have it on sale for half price at $200.

Just looked up which ones I've got: PBJS12000-RD - POWERALL JUMPSTARTER POWERBANK 400A 12000MAH 12V PBJS16000-WS - POWERALL JUMPSTARTER POWERBANK 600A 16000MAH 12V WITH SPEAKER (been replaced under warranty as it stopped accepting charge) REPCO ULTRA CAPACITOR JUMPSTARTER 12V 1200A As mentioned, repco one seems the best at holding charge, although it is the newest. I generally go to start the car, find 2 or 3 are flat and end up waiting 15min for the capacitor to charge or get jumper leads. Admittedly most of the time i'm trying to start an old v8 bmw which keeps draining it's battery.

I have one of these in my breakdown kit, easily starts a completely flat Diesel Hiace van, stays with a useable charge for months . Expensive YES, reliable YES, https://www.repco.co.nz/en/brands/projecta/projecta-lithium-jumpstarter-1250a-12v/p/A1302939

The map isn't 14 across the board. It should be lower down low so that the ECU doesn't try correct too far. If it is asking for 14 and you're making 10 it'll be making corrections with the wastegate to try get there. So as soon as there is enough exhaust gas to make 14 it'll overshoot for a second until it can open the wastegate enough to drop the boost back down. This is super common for cars with free flowing intakes/exhausts on the stock tune, sometimes even without those mods. How is you IAM and LV looking now?

I've now had further tries with the fuel pump fuse removed, no luck. Negative battery cable disconnected and the jumper connected directly to the battery cables (read a review that tried that way which worked, plus it worked for Joker too), no luck. The two above methods at the same time, again no luck. To me the clicking means the relay is engaging so it has enough for that but just can't draw enough current to turn the motor over. I'll have a go with the usual jumper leads tomorrow to see if they can get it started the old fashioned way, or grab a new battery. Regardless of battery health, if it can't get me started in a situation like this it isn't a whole heap of use to me as it'll never work when it's most needed.

Well it failed its first test. Battery tested at 3.5v 11.9v with the jumper attached. Everything else worked but just clicks when trying to turn over. Think I was hoping for a miracle here as usually even when hooked up to the van with jumper leads it needs 5ish mins of above idle connection before it would try crank. And this time the battery was even flatter than normal. Normally the dash and central locking works at least but this time it had nothing at all. Ohh and plus the fuel pump currently having no switch at all means it always runs at ~18A when the ignition’s on which makes jumping a heap harder too 😒