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Munkvy last won the day on May 31

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About Munkvy

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  • Birthday 26/06/82

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  1. Better stopping ability and work from cold isn't impossible with race pads, just buy moderate race pads. Not serious ones. However even most serious pads only require a couple of stabs before they start to work. However that isn't much use in a panic stop situation! If you want your car to stop better every time, buy better tyres. That is what generates the grip that allows you to stop better. Not fancy pads.
  2. Factory or aftermarket? Assuming you mean aftermarket, Whiteline have a good reputation and you can get them in different sizes or as an adjustable unit, but aren't cheap. Ultra Racing are a bit cheaper but still work.
  3. Totally off topic question... Have you ironed your J Hat, or are you American?
  4. You should go race some (as in drive them, not race at traffic lights), they aren't as bad as the exhaust note implies. And very rewarding when you beat people in much more powerful cars! Some of my favourite racing memories are of my old EF CRX, revvy and nimble in a way that the WRX just never can do. And there is something about being so close to instant death if you hit something in it!!! I can't think of many things worse than 221kw in a FWD. LSD is just going to help you spontaneously change lanes more consistently... Having been in Golf GTI's and Mazda 3 MPS's that are mostly stock and yet wheelspin like a demon and aggressively torque steer I can't say I am a fan. However as a race car I do see the value to a turbo FWD as at least you then have the grip to control it. Ohh and as for 2WD vs 4WD, I think it's a matter of environment. I beat a Focus RS at a hillclimb not that long ago in my E30. That wasn't due to car though, it was entirely the driver being a bit slow. I love the turn-in ability of a RWD (the best feature of my E30), but I also love the revvy nature of an old N/A FWD Honda too. And then 4WD is simply the funnest way to launch, so it's all matter of what you want from a car. And lets face it, almost no one on this forum is going to drive their car to the actual limit of the cars ability at any time, so ultimate handling is irrelevant, it's more what handling makes you happy...
  5. When talking to DTech about doing a forged build on an EZ30 Tony said it was a very expensive engine to strip and assemble, as well as the obvious extra need for more parts due to more pistons. So I would suggest it won't be quite that cheap to build a strong motor?
  6. So it was a bit of fun. But there was only 2 Subarus there, Al and Mark... There was also no need for the handbrake as it was way too fast and flowing for handbrake use. But whoever the guy is doing helis further up the page, if you want to do that legitimately, and are in Wellington there is an autocross on Sunday in Upper Hutt, $40 and you basically can race anything that is upto WOF standard and you have a helmet/overalls. Better than doing heli's and wearing out tyres for no purpose. Plus then people know how fast you are.. (or aren't as often is the case at autocrosses).
  7. I think you miss the purpose of a WRC car, which is to go over any sort of roads at great speed, with unreal suspension travel to soak up virtually any surface and turn and stop better than anything else. And have massive grip. To get point to point you won't go quicker, as long as point to point involves some proper corners... All these things mean that it is utterly wasted on the road and as you say, in a straight line not that quick. Although I would say upto 200km/hr they would still eat your average road car due to the gearbox shift speed, lack of lag and ability to get off the line quickly... Ohh and don't believe the 300hp BS, even the modern 1.6L ones running a tiny 32mm restrictor made more than that (have now gone up to bigger restrictor and more power since). Either way, the guy driving one on the road has clearly got too much money or a really small willy that he needs to compensate for. It's a travesty that the car isn't being used properly... But I would say that, as I am a little biased and get frustrated about how many people pose in performance cars, when they should be out racing their cars and using that performance. Grumpy old man racer rant over.
  8. Yes, I was referring to radiator. Which will help keep everything cooler in the engine bay if it's sealed off properly. I have only ever used FMIC really, and always wrap the intercooler piping. IAT is typically under 40 degrees even in summer when racing.
  9. Ahh yes, I may have done that before... They are good and cheap. Although if you don't like curbs you have to drive tidily (personally I just run over them). There is also one on the 18th at Manfeild, which I will probably go to
  10. 4.5km autocross, which is about the longest autocross you will ever do... Basically drive round the whole Manfeild track, both front and back at once. With some chicanes to keep the speed down. Due to only doing 1 lap at a time you are much less likely to break your car too... Do it! I will most likely be there in my E30 BMW (as WRX is in bits). Good cheap fun in a low key environment, with no requirement for a race license. Do it!
  11. Which autocross events?
  12. I found a drop in coolant temp by going round the edges of the radiator and sealing them to the chassis, so that air can't flow around the radiator. I was having issues at idle on start lines in my rally car with the coolant temp getting too high in summer. This fixed this. Otherwise, as EVERYONE has said, FMIC will significantly drop IAT, it is worth it. And as you can see from my profile pic, not like the FMIC is that noticable...
  13. Seems rear internal diameter is either 170 or 190mm and mine are 190mm. Going back to 4/2 pots as I am selling the car and Brembos don't add value really on a rally car.
  14. Sorry, should have said R180 rear end. I have a BH5, so might nick a rotor off that and see if it fits. Now to find some 2 pot rears to put on the car then.
  15. I have a GC8 that had V7 Brembos and hubs on it and I am converting back to regular STI 4/2 pots. I am trying to work out what I need in the way of rear discs and callipers. Reading the 2 pot rear brake thread - I think I have the narrow mount and should fit V4-6 rear 4 pots fine on this, but I wanted to see if anyone knows for sure? And by the looks BH5/BE5 rear rotors should fit? Having measured the hub it's definitely 190mm inner diameter.