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      ClubSUB 2018 Calendar is now avilable!   24/09/17

      Click here for more info!
       
      The 2018 ClubSUB Calendar, Powered by Possum Borne Motorsport is now available.

      12 Hand picked full colour photos, taken by menbers, submitted by members and chosen by members.
      All vehicles in the calendar are owned by members of the NZ Subaru Enthusiasts community.

      A massive thanks to the team at PBMS for coming on board for another year!

      This is a very sought after calendar and only available for a limited time.
      Also, if you are a subscribed member of ClubSUB, you will be in for a descent discount, so make sure you're logged in.

      Please note, as these are printed to order, shipping will be delayed. we will make 3 orders, October 30th, November 27th, and December 11th. If you dont order intime to make one of these shipping dates, we will get it out to you in the new year.

Munkvy

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Munkvy last won the day on May 31

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About Munkvy

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  • Birthday 26/06/82

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  1. I have an old BH5 Legacy that I use for towing the rally car and once I used it as the zero car on Targa for a day. I have 4 pots with EBC Blue pads (which are nothing like yellows), and on good tyres it was quite good to use on Targa. Bearing in mind as the safety car and with no notes I couldn't go as quickly as the competitors, but we also have to stay in front of them, so plenty of hitting speed limiter and carrying as much corner speed as a 20 year old car with stock suspension will let you. Even found a pic of it: http://www.proshotz.com/p170609214/e235944cb Anyway, I found 4 pots with good pads sufficient. Track maybe a little different depending on how tight it is for getting sufficient cooling on the straights, but brake ducting makes a massive difference with that and is cheaper to do than upgrading pads. Only thing I found is the race pads aren't much use on public roads, noisy and dirty and a bit lazy on the first couple of applications. So best to only use them when racing. SP500 pads I have only used once, years ago in a friends STI at Manfield and they were fine on road tyres. I think you would cook them if you push them on semis.
  2. Be very careful with antilag, if you get it wrong you may well hurt your motor and/or turbo (ask me how I know!).
  3. Given V2 is 20+ years old and it was a terrible design when new, I doubt you will be able to I am afraid... Better off going FMIC, cheap and easy to do as well as reducing the chance of detonation.
  4. Unleashed Lower Hutt or Partsouq.
  5. Thanks, practice in a slow car has made me a lot faster, but always room to improve still! Hillclimbs, autocrosses and track days all just generally need a fire extinguisher, overalls and a helmet. Ohh and you need to be a member of a motorsport NZ affiliated club and then a motorsport license, both these things are easy to sort out though. Very few hillclimbs/sprints require a cage, it's generally only when the road is quite dangerous (ie like Shelly Bay in Wellington which is cliffs on one side and ocean on the other).
  6. Happy to take people for a drive Although I probably should put the passenger seat back in the car first!
  7. Didn't have time to watch it all. But wheres the drifting at? Given your age and the fact you seem to know the answers to everything, I would have expected you to be chucking it in backwards at least at the hairpin and driving somewhere approaching the limit of adhesion. Good to see you have tried out the track. But if you ever want to drive properly fast, come to Wellington to one of our hillclimb *actual motorsport* events. Happy to take you out as a passenger and help encourage you to do this stuff legally more often, as once you realise that you can race fast round corners legally, that's much more fun than this straight line sh*t! Ohh and if you ever go back to the track, please make sure to get a driving instructor, you might learn some stuff. Turns out those guys that have been racing for a long time do actually know more than the average driver
  8. Tony had an awesome twin can setup that I largely copied and it worked really well, never had any issues with filling catch cans or anything. You will have to search around to find the photos of the setup in a post by Tony. If you are tracking the car, make sure you put a decent baffled sump in and the less modified the engine the better, less chance it's going to blow up straight away. Large power is definitely a bad thing at the track unless you have all the supporting modifications to keep it cool and reliable.
  9. Do the front arm rear bushes, that helps add caster so the car turns in better and then if you get the anti squat stuff in theory it helps with exit grip, although I have never been able to tell. Rear diff bushes if they are flogged you can normally feel the rear diff clunking around under aggressive changes. Subframes bolts I couldn't really feel a major difference when I installed them. Swaybar was the biggest for me. I put the biggest rear bar on possible and on the stiffest setting it makes quite a difference to the responsiveness of the car. Then winding the bar down to a softer setting and doing the same course I could feel the handling was lazier and you had to be more patient to let the car settle when changing direction etc. Other than that, just replace your engine and box mounts if they are poked. But replacing bushes is an expensive way to improve handling, I would suggest coilovers is better value for money. Although it depends on the goals of the car too.
  10. I ran one of these on my WRX rally car. They are laggy compared to stock turbos. So really wasn't well suited to my car. With a very conservative road tune 180wkw roughly from memory, might have been slightly more (ie car was road tuned, then a quick check later on the dyno). I did Taranaki Tarmac rally 2016 on it as the 0 car, and I also ran antilag through it briefly and it is still running, so I was surprised that the turbo lasted. But definitely too laggy compared to stock for my liking. Although my engine did end up down on compression, so that didn't help things.
  11. Yeah its fun beating on powerful cars!
  12. What does any of it matter? It's all just numbers. Times at a track or drag strip are a better reference. But what makes you smile is the most important given how much cars cost to modify!
  13. I co-drive last month in an Legacy with 210wkw using a DCCD 5 speed. Using the excellent MapDCCD controller. And it was good. So certainly upto the job, how long they last I couldn't say, from memory he had done a season of sprints on it and one rally and it was still holding together fine. 6 speed is still pretty good value for money given you don't need to rebuild them to make them reliable like you do with a lot 5 speeds. However they still have a lifespan that's going to be shorter than a dogbox if you really thrash them. I have done 5-6 rallies over the last couple of years (including a 5 day Targa) on 2 6 speed boxes. Both of them have started to have issues with selectors over time due to me being not particularly kind on gear change. But no mechanical failure so far.
  14. They are very well priced, there is a guy on SAU who swears by them. So a couple of good reviews around. They are a little cheaper than Dunlops, which are a known good tyre, curious to compare grip levels. Whatever you do, wouldn't run them on the road, cops probably won't like that pattern, especially once they wear! And of course they aren't great in the wet.
  15. Hmm, thats a hard one then, hard to know if you got unlucky with a sh*t box or just you are being rough on it? You can always look on passenger side of the box to see what the code is by the way. To make sure it's actually a box from a modern car. You could try a later model (ie 2000+) 5 speed, they are supposed to be better. I spent a couple of years doing sprints on 5 speeds and only ever broke one. Mind you I have broken 2 6 speeds, but that's mostly shifter issues I think.