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Kiwi_Fozze last won the day on November 21 2017

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641 my mum says I'm cool.


About Kiwi_Fozze

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    Howick - ish
  1. Depends. Your particular car, that front thing draws air in from around the bottom edge of the bonnet. Kinda need that to get it running right. If you want the "wooshy" noises, take the air box out and remove the white plastic "milk bottle" attached to the bottom of the black air box. Leave the resulting hole open. It Allows extra cold air to be drawn in from behind the drivers side foglights area. As far as performance gains, moot point. The Subaru factory airboxes are REALLY good, and for the most part, "upgrading" to a cai, particularly an under bonnet, in engine bay style pod filter will end up with you going backwards in power. But nothing will give you anything like the sort of gains you'll get from a tune ;-)
  2. checked the boot? i know there were 2 big blue fishbins of your bits next to the car before it left the old workshop, with all sorts scattered through em.
  3. correct, if swapping to the gd arms in the rear you'll need gd axles
  4. i think iridiums and platinums were about 50k intervals. thats what... 10 sets of coppers or one set of iridiums. some quick back of envelope maths tells me that iridiums and platinums are a bigger one off cost, but cheaper long run. even if you did $7 copper plugs, at 10,000km intervals, that still works out at like $140 for 50,000km and more hassle, than a set of iridiums or platinums that can be had for around the $100 mark and done once. plus, alloy heads, steel plugs... the wear on the sparkplug threads are another factor to consider, especially if you are a bit rough
  5. pfr6g / bkr6eix i've used without fail in both my tuned v7's and no issues with misfire, until recently with my car. but, they were new plugs, so i knew that wasn't the issue. new coils on, misfire on boost gone. have heard coppers should be done with every oil change, so if you follow the manual, you should be doing em about every 5000-7500km. i personally cant be assed resetting my radio settings and disabling the alarm to remove the battery, ripping out my cold air intake and flipping my windscreen washer out of the way that often.
  6. gc8 alloy arms are the same size, yes. bolt em up and go (to get a wheel alignment) poor mans anti lift kit may be worth doing while you are in there (SF/SG Forester control arm bushes) GD alloy arms are significantly wider, but do-able, and you dont need different axles for the front. you do for the rear.
  7. @4G63B8 sedan struts and springs are a bit softer, as mentioned, results in the back sitting lower. 2 options: 1: spacer 2: wagon specific struts
  8. My starting point would be a compression test, leak down and teekay test. Then, gamble on knowing what to expect
  9. New cert requirements basically mean if you aren't running the factory rails then your belt stalk has to be floor mounted, I'd chat to a certifier
  10. Mine doesn't use any oil, but my blowby ruffles your hair if you open the oil cap, and leaves a nasty film on the tmic. I hit 211kw at 400nm, couldn't add any more timing because of knock. Even if it was richened up, still knocked. Oil catch can (or air oil separator) and try again.
  11. @Subru what's your milage? Pull the tmic, check for a film of oil. Blowby will reduce your knock resistance quite a lot.
  12. Downpipe, 3port solenoid and tune be a bloody good way to get some good power gains
  13. Pull the white resonator off the back of the black box. The duct under the bonnet (that massive black scoop thing) feeds pressurised air into the air box, you remove that as well and you may as well run a pod. Keep that high pressure scoop thing. If you do decide to remove it, then yeah block up the hole and duct it down below the spotlight. But better to keep that duct thing there
  14. Some people rip it out and shove a Nexus tablet in to the hole, works well
  15. Looked at it as I took the bike to work... New arrow exhaust on the street triple sounds goooooodd