A_J_T

Yea, when it comes to this tuning business I get a bit lost. But basically what you’re saying “if I’ve understood correctly” is that CR should not matter too much as at the end of the day the tune will be setup and ignition timing will be pulled down to compensate the added CR..

Yea its not urgent so ill flick Alastair an email on Monday, [quote name='94 Leone said: Following as I think this would be a better platform to convert to single turbo with, Also bump because I really wanna know how this plays out. Someone on facebook with a similar can of worms. but they've already put the forester engine into their rev D.Exciting times! Yea i don't think many Rev-D's have been converted aye, should be a nice little daily being 9:1 CR if we can get it running. Also apparently some of the JDM ej205 STI foresters ran a 9:1 but finding one of those ECU's is probably not that easy.

I’ve touched on this in another thread but thought I’d start a new one so I don’t flood random threads with my irrelevant incompetence. So I’m looking at possibly converting my Rev-D TT ej208 to Single Turbo and all looks sweet but Ross kindly reminded me that the Rev-D ej208 has a CR of 9:1 so a V7 STI ECU won’t really be up to the task as the STI runs 8:1 CR. That said it has also been pointed out that the STI ECU is possibly tunable to suite a 9:1 CR. So anyway then after a bunch of interneting and reading facts that sometimes are so far from the truth it’s not funny I thought.. Isn’t the B4 Rev-D ECU already open source “tunable”? If so is there a possibility of just keeping my current ECU and then get it tuned once the conversion is done?

Yea, that's a jolly good place to start. thanks mate

Yea, this was my next concert actually... and one that im stuck on. does this mean id be looking at a a aftermarket ECU like a link rather than a generic OEM STI ECU?

Hey Ross, I have a Rev-D and at the stage of trying to nut out all the parts ill need for going single turbo.. from what I've read above my Rev-D intake manifold should be ace for going s/t and no need to look at getting a v6-v7 intake manifold because it is already effectively a v7 one anyway..?

Man when I heard about this I was gutted, I hope you get it back in good nick.

Found it, feel like I'm not committed enough to go get it though so ill leave it up to someone else.

about 30 mins apart, there has been alot of chasing tails lately! Good to see im not the only one using my phone to take photos though ^

10:00 Sorry edited time

Haha yes sir, now go get it.

Old: Te Horeta Rd New: I die a little inside everytime i scroll back down to my pictures and see how bad quality they are.

Damn looks like Tag went well over the weekend, also know where the next one is so might head that way later if someone else Hasnt bet me to it.

As far as i know the Scarles kit does not allow for keeping the fog lights and standard air box. also pretty sure the radiator overflow bottle needs moving to the side a little. all small things but still not ideal IMO. http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/124926-twin-turbo-intercooler-kits/page-6

Finally got some 4 pots on.

Old: New:

Old: New: Sorry about the quality

I have no idea where this one is. Nice photo though for sure, car looks mint mate.

Bump Also keen to know what a good type/brand of spring to go for - TEIN, DOBI, JAMEX, KING, COBRA? I know these guys seem to know what there doing http://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/product/springs/134/list

All sorted, was way too easy.. Nothing damaged and the car is now starting with a screwdriver, just another reminder to why a good alarm and immobilizer is important. @Joker, Yea I’ve had one done before and its only around $40 so that's possibly what ill do with this, also thinking of sorting out a big red start button cause this might give me VTEC yea? Anyway Thanks for the input guys.

Not any car, my car. I realize this is a potently dodgy and inappropriate topic so if y'all feel weary about it no worries. Also feel free to PM me if you do have any helpful information and you trust me. Thanks Edit: Thanks Clint. yea been on the phone with the ol' Bro this morning and have got a better idea of whats up so im absolutely going to give it a go.

Ok so I came back to my car last night after being out and the Key was a little tighter than usually to insert into the ignition, I then try to turn the ignition on and no go. I got a ride home and grabbed a spare key in case mine was worn or dodgy and this was also a no go. I have phoned a couple mobile lock smiths and it’s going to cost anywhere from $200 to $500 to get the ignition repaired or replaced on the spot. I’m not so keen for this idea and I’d much rather figurout how I can jumper the correct wires in the ignition plug to get it started and then I can sort this mess out in my own time. I have had the ignition off before due to some twat thief breaking the previous one when trying to steal the car so I understand where all the correct plugs are to access but wouldn’t have a clue which ones i need to join/short/jumper whatever. Any help or other suggestions/resolutions to this situation would be awesome. Thanks

Nope, I believe I have felt it feedback vaguely through the brake pedal at low speeds 30km/h below. I have heard brake pads being loose in their retention clips can cause this.. Any thought?

So.. Been clocking up the K’s the past couple weeks and a knocking noise has developed in the front left. It sounds like a woodpecker at around 100km/h and when rolling slowly it kind of clunks every rotation of the wheel, appears to be knocking at wheel rotation speed. I have my ideas on what it could be but would really appreciate any input before I go diving in to find out what’s going on.

Id suggest looking at the options Exedy provides in there sports tuff range. i havint had a lot of experience with different clutch applications but from what you have described i don't think you would need anything more than an OEM organic type clutch plate and a slightly "20-30%" increased clamp load.