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boon

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boon last won the day on March 20

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About boon

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  • Birthday 29/11/88
  1. For the same money as a low-km (edit: version 10) Hawkeye WRX I would buy a (edit: version 8/9) blob-eye STI. Enormous, fairly bulletproof 6-speed vs plain old 5-speed Enormous Brembos vs 4-pots 300wkw-capable motor that will do 22wkw with nothing but exhaust and a reflash, vs maybe 220wkw-capable motor once you bolt on all the STI bits. Twin scroll vs single Blah blah all sorts. Get an STI Edit: can we stop with the americanisms yet? It's a v8/9/10 not a blob/blob-facelift/hawkeye
  2. I would be surprised if there's more $1000 worth of difference between decent struts+springs and a coilover option. As for the swaybars, just keep in mind that increasing the front bar rate will change the car's attitude to be more understeery; I run a 23mm rear bar and stock front bar and personally I think it makes the car heaps more balanced.
  3. As for those struts above, my 01 STI had red/pink struts...
  4. If you're going to go beyond the relatively similar STI/Genome offerings, the no-brainer is to go for MCAs. Obviously requires a cert though. The real solution is to go to a strut that has different high and low speed damping; crank the low speed to reduce body roll while still having effective suspension on bumps.
  5. My STI has fogs, so does Batbaruman's That wagon is either an STI or someone has spent a bunch of money trying to pretend it's one, looks to have the 6-speed and STI interior. That said, the wagon's didn't get Brembos, and are narrower than the sedan. HID's were an option I believe, just it was an option that nearly every car got. The only thing I would be a little suspect about on that car is the wonky grill, wrong bonnet scoop and possibly wrong headlights = maybe it's had a minor frontal at some stage.
  6. If you need a hand rebuilding/greasing them give me a buzz, I sorta know my way around a strut these days.
  7. Looks ok and pretty OEM spec. Maybe offer him 12k and see where that leads? I'd re-grease the Pink shocks and put them back in, cheap Teins probably make it handle worse plus you need a cert. Based on the dusty AF engine bay I would say it gets driven down gravel roads a bunch so the underbody may be in kinda average condition and be prone to rusting later in life. Last but not least, I'm pretty sure there's no 98 Octane in Timaru, so it will have been knocking away on 95 the whole time.
  8. Last night we finally got brave and tried to start my friend's engine-converted Civic. It started life as a D15 carbo-saurus, the new heart is a B20Vtec (CRV 2 litre block + B16A VTEC head) that was built by us in our garages. I was fairly certain it was just going to go nonga nonga rattle rattle and die. We had a dead fuel pump (screw you, trademe guy) and an air-lock in the fuel rail (jeez never seen that before???) but once that was resolved, wonder of wonders, it started and sounded healthy as! Now to try and learn how to HonData and get it at least drivable so it can go to Prestige and get a tune
  9. Cool shots, really shows how much work the suspension has to do to follow the surface of the road.
  10. Mine was drop-in, just put the factory sock on it and carried on. Had to change the connector on the power cable though. Cool, it outperforms the Aeromotive for maybe 3% of actual real world driving, at the expense of sounding like someone drilling concrete in the boot. Both pumps will flow enough for something like 700hp. If someone made a quiet, small, efficient in-line pump then I would recommend that, since he already has the surge setup. But considering he could sell the surge setup and easily cover the cost of going back to a high-end in-tank, unless fuel surge is a serious concern for him it seems like a no-brainer. And just for a laugh, here's a dataset showing the Aeromotive outperforming the 044 at everything except ridiculous fuel pressure: <img>
  11. Ditch. your. dinosaur. fuel. pump. I did some hunting around the internets and a Aeromotive Stealth 340 will probably out-flow it and costs all of like $200. You'll have to ditch the bling surge setup though.
  12. What the F***... that has to be the shark car guy, he loves stuff like that. Especially the ridiculous front bumper setup, no doubt complete with un-plumbed interfooler. Is that an MR2 somewhere under all the shite?
  13. Oh man having one of those break was pretty much my worst nightmare when I did my leaky rocker cover. I figured it would be an engine-out job to fix properly
  14. Basically just to stop coking from heatsoak in the core... journal bearing is always just going to be the temperature of your oil feed or thereabouts. For a track car, meh, give it death and when it eventually dies put a bigger one on.
  15. Rolling road will measure the actual torque applied, including torque multiplication from the gearbox and diff; Dynapak works out the drive ratio thus takes the gearing out of the equation. That's not bad power for only 17psi.
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