boon

I'm still running an ancient Bel RX75 (permanent install detector). We did some heads-up testing with it against a Bel STI Driver and a V1 and the performance was comparable. Admittedly I haven't looked into detectors in years and for all I know the latest crop are miles better (literally). I probably wouldn't go back to a non-hardwire one. I really like not having to dick about with anything every time I hop in the car.

Do you just want to make fully hektik noises and pretend it's a racecar? All factory single scroll manifolds are essentially the same, Strong for Subaru occasionally has the driver's side elbow bit with a 38mm gate flange poorly welded onto the cast manifold, or Trademe. If you want it for reasons other than making loud noises, you're usually better going off the up-pipe as it makes it easier to plumb back into the downpipe. You can do it off the manifold as well if you have a 4-1 design or a 4-2-1 and you don't mind putting a y-piece in for the gate, then run the plumb-back underneath the subframe and join it in to the downpipe at the point where it flattens off. It's just a bit more work, and difficult with anything larger than a 38mm gate. Keeping in mind that all external wastegates require certification even if you plumb them back, if you're running a stock turbo you're probably wasting a whole lot of time and money.

2007 is the border between the old and new shapes, the new ones have completely different rear suspension setups so suspect it wouldn't fit. Subru hits the nail on the head, there's plenty you can do in the cosmetic area but limited performance mods that are worth doing.

We have had this conversation quite a long time ago with another member that had basically the exact same car. @Subru I think it was? Any money you spend on it will probably make it worse and will reduce the resale value. Just enjoy it for what it is and save your pennies for something fast at some point in the future The only thing really worth doing is putting some adequate tyres on it.

I think a while ago it might not have been the headgasket, but how many times have you overheated it now? I would say at this point it's probably a headgasket.

My understanding is the same as yours, that it's an idle-up to prevent the engine stalling under PS load, say if you're turning the wheels with the car stationary (which results in a lot of PS load as well). Try disconnecting it at the pump end and see what happens?

The EZ is a way more modern and sophisticated motor, especially if you want to do things like variable valve timing. Also I believe there is much better aftermarket support for it, i.e. there are off-the-shelf pistons, rods, valves etc whereas I don't think support for the EG33 is anywhere near is good.

Problem is that they will have smashed the steering lock to pieces as well so it can turn into quite a big job. As yours is evidently not the immobiliser one it would be a DIYer, just need to get all the parts off a wreck. I can almost guarantee they didn't pop the door lock though, they will have pulled the frameless window out from the pillar and stuck something in to unlock it. Much more likely you'll need to replace the monsoon/plastic rain guard above the door as it often gets broken off so they can pull the window. All of this said, somewhat unlikely that it'll show up. Also weird that it got taken in the first place, generally speaking shithead car thieves would expect a car this new to have a factory immobiliser, or maybe they just know which models don't....

In a pinch you would be fine. Another bloke on here used to routinely tow his racecar on a tandem trailer all over the place with one. Eventually the trans shat the bed which was somewhat to be expected.

As long as you're running it on 98 it's not going to do anything bad. I have a V7 STI which only has arguably marginally stronger internals and I've run something like 26psi from a WAY bigger turbo through it and it didn't die. I ran it (untuned) for like 2 years with a downpipe and exhaust and it was hitting something around 21-22psi all the time and it didn't give a damn. Just run good fuel, don't thrash it when it's cold, and factor in getting a tune somewhere down the track - budget $1500 and get a high-flow panel filter, a 3-port boost solenoid and an aftermarket fuel pump just for good luck, car will probably make a safe-as-houses 215wkw and drive bloody nicely too.

What the F*** is everyone here talking about. The seller made a representation about the vehicle. It was untrue. Even if the seller made that representation in good faith, it was still untrue, and you relied upon it when you purchased the vehicle. If you have written proof that they claimed the cambelt had been done, take them to the disputes tribunal for the value of having the cambelt done. Not court, just dispute tribunal. No lawyers, just you and them and probably some grotty old justice of the peace. They will probably pay you just to make you go away. If you don't have written proof then you're probably kinda boned.

Had a look on Opposed Forces, same part number across all the cars that have the "wide" fenders

The wagon/povvo ones are basically flat other than a slight lip. Maybe the guard was pumped at some point, or one's had some panelbeating? *has a look on Trademe to see if there is a subtle difference*

Ehh what now? There's only 2 shapes in the GD/GG series AFAIK, the sedans get the wide guards and the wagons and a few complete poverty model sedans get the non-wide ones. I would be looking at the alignment of the entire front subframe?

If you run sub-11.0 you aren't allowed to run again until you have a cage (half-cage?).