boon

So a coilover manufacturer told you that struts are more important, and a bushing manufacturer told you that bushings are more important? Now there's the surprise of the century. /sarcasm. If the factory bushings are so s*** hot, why do the WRC Subarus use pillowballs pretty much everywhere? Also, #unpopularopinion but I would say (total spitball figure) probably 80% of adjusty/coilover installs reduce the car's cornering grip. Best thing I ever did for my car's handling was make it a whole s***load softer.

It's called the FA20 and it's been around for years now?

$1 reserve has always worked well for me but it's essential that someone bids like $800-$1000 in the first 48 hours or so, otherwise you get all these tyrekicking f***s contacting you thinking they're going to get an engine-swapped lifted Hilux for $46. EDIT: On that note, maybe instead of $1 reserve, make it like $500 reserve, something that's still a screaming good deal but eliminates the total dreamers off the bat.

There's a few options for a gasket, but most of them still come with sealant. It's one of those jobs you want to get right the first time cos it's a bloody messy job to go back and try again. It's good enough for Subaru to just goo the sucker up so I reckon it's good enough for us too.

So wait.... are you using a genuine Subaru sensor or a "probably compatible" alternative? When I said "did you get a 22633AA210" I meant "Did you get a genuine Subaru part, numbered 22633AA210, not some knock-off turd" The compatible alternate is 22633AA140, note 140, not 240. For bits like this, don't f*** around with aftermarket alternatives. We're talking about a $100 part here.

All cable throttles are on the same side. I think the yanks mainly got DBW throttles though, did you maybe get a DBW TPS? EDIT: Ok it looks like the DBW throttle body is a single-piece assembly, presumably with TPS built in. Did you get a 22633AA210?

Check the idler bearing on that belt. Mine did something pretty similar when the bearing was flogged out.

If the line is the indicator, then it's either set to like 70hz, which I would consider quite low, or about 150hz, which I would consider quite high. If it's currently on the low side, try setting it right in the middle, should give you roughly 100hz. Maybe a pinch to the left, approx 11 o'clock.

We're talking about like 350w here. 18mm MDF isn't going to move, don't worry about bracing it. Nutserts, each to their own, I've only used them with ridiculous systems where the sub was coming in and out a lot. Curious, the DD designs usually tune quite high (40hz is standard for them) so should be quite a punchy box. One thing to try is removing the polyfill from the box as this will make it behave like it's larger than it actually is. Other thing to check is that your low-pass filter isn't set ridiculously low, I'd aim for somewhere around 80-100hz, try turning it up just a little and see how that affects the sound.

That's a bloody good effort for a first go at building a box! I'll be interested to see how it changes how it sounds.

Honestly I would just hit up a wrecker and get the factory parts. Or Partsouq. Let me have a dig around. EDIT: If I've got the right part number a genuine one appears to be about 40USD new, so, being a piece of relatively undesirable plastic, should be cheap as chips from a wrecker.

This is just potato. The usual stupid 6x9 boxes you see on the market are like 10 litres maximum. A 5 second look at some random 6x9's (middle of the road Kicker ones) has the Vas at 42 litres. Compare this to say, a reasonably high-performance 12" sub (DD 3512) - recommended enclosure size of 1.75-2.75 cubic feet (roughly 50-75 litres), but that driver has a Vas of just 22 litres. I mean somewhat apples to oranges but putting a speaker with a Vas that huge in a tiny box is basically like "let's prevent this cone from moving worth a s***". It probably sounded better because it was getting caned without a high-pass, and the tiny box helped it to not run out of xmax when the bass dropped

Don't put 6x9's in a box. This is a common misconception. Most 6x9's, the manufacturers realise that the most common place they will be installed is in a parcel shelf, so they are designed with very high Qms (mechanical control) and have stiff suspension to allow them to run in this state. They work best in what is usually called an "infinite baffle", where there is no enclosure on either side of the cone, but a baffle that should be sufficiently large that the front and rear waves will never meet. If you want parcel shelf 6x9's to sound better, try closing up all the other holes in your parcel shelf, then sound deaden it to prevent the shelf itself from vibrating. Note that 6x9's with a boot sub is a losing game, because, especially in a sedan, the sub enclosure will, to some extent, effectively couple with the boot as an extension of the enclosure (essentially creating a kinda janky bandpass) and having some moving 6x9 cones essentially forming a part of that enclosure is always going to be slightly janky. EDIT: Most door speakers are effectively running in a pretty s*** equivalent of infinite baffle, and car speakers, by and large, have very stiff suspension to compensate for this. This also contributes to them often having ludicrously high power ratings compared to home audio gear, and is also why home audio drivers sound like s*** in a car and car drivers don't get loud in a home audio installation. #audionerd.

Yeah that's the car. The SLAP one is the airbrushed one (or at least it was until it got sold).

Years back we built a BMW 5 series (530 maybe?) for what I call "SQL" - sound quality as a priority, but it had to get loud. An insane amount of dynamat and expanding foam went into that car, along with well over $10k in gear, it was f***ing awesome. Did over 140dB on music and sounded really, really nice doing it, and the best part was that even at full tilt there was no obvious sign, other than the bass itself, that it was coming from that car. No rattling boot lid, no buzzing doors, just bass.