boon

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boon last won the day on February 22

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  1. If you run sub-11.0 you aren't allowed to run again until you have a cage (half-cage?).
  2. I know that some years ago the answer was a resounding no - you could go run a 10 second pass with a super ropey half-cage made of exhaust off-cuts arc-welded together in your mates garage and that was more or less fine, but MSNZ would laugh at you if you tried to get the cage homologated.
  3. V7 ECU Pinout is at the bottom of this document: https://linkecu.com/documentation/WRX9+.pdf Not sure about the rest, sorry.
  4. Lots of rumbling on @ToomTom and @Niran's garage threads, about people's expectations and experiences with performance workshops. I feel like it's a conversation worth having, because clearly we all have somewhat different levels of expectation about what we'll get when we take our car to a specialist workshop. And I have some grumpy rants to have about it as well. Keep it constructive, I guess. My 2c: On the one hand, virtually every modified car is different. There will be slight variations from build to build that introduce unique differences that have to be allowed for when you setup/tune the car. On the other hand, these are "experts" and they usually charge like a wounded bull, so the service should be premium. Because of these variations in cars, things sometimes go wrong, or don't work as well as expected. So my number one rule for a workshop: communicate. Tell the customer what's going on. And for the love of all things Subaru, have your ducks in a row when you talk to them. Don't give them some wishy washy bullshit with 9 different things that you think it might be. You're professionals, damn it, with a workshop full of fancy diagnostic gear (including, probably, a dyno), so come and tell me what the issue is. Rule number two: Unless the customer is like "I'm coming to get the car", don't push it out the workshop door if it's running like a bag of balls. Generally people spend like 6 months or more building the car, a couple more days for you to iron out some little issues is nothing; the customer might be a little bit disappointed but if you follow rule #1 and have a concrete conversation about why you need the car longer they will be understanding. If you hang on to the car but fail at #1 you look incompetent. And so help me, if you have more than one car with the same issue, and you fix it on one car and don't fix it on the other, and then tell the owner of the second car that it's the same issue as another car that you already knew about but you didn't fix it on their car, you look incompetent. I've taken a car to get tuned, it had issues, the tuner nailed it down to a single factor, laid out my options, we made a decision on it, got it sorted. Easy. Seriously, I feel like I have had some sort of blessed experience with tuning. Drive/trailer the car in, leave it for a couple of days, drive it out.
  5. Yeah the Rage one has the flange clocked about 45 degrees from the stock mid-pipe. You can just whop it off and rotate, not a big job, or use the full Rage exhaust which flows well but is loud as a really loud thing. The Rage downpipe is really decent for the $$.
  6. Is that a big job if it's the hub? Not really, but the issue is that if you pull the wheel and bearing off and the hub is stuffed then you can't put the wheel back on. So you have a 3-wheeled car stuck wherever it is until you can get your hands on a hub/stub. Subaru NZ knows this, and the parts are eleventy billion dollars.
  7. For what it's worth, on my V7 the bearing was so shagged that it destroyed the stub bit and it still had no play.
  8. Dumb question maybe but it's not RPM-linked is it? I got some horrible whiney grindy noises when the bearing in my alternator belt idler failed.
  9. You're telling me a 1995 STI is worth twice today what it was in 2004, when it was 9 years old instead of 24? I dunno where you're getting your prices from, these things have effectively bottomed out in value at $4-6k depending on condition and aren't going up any time soon. They are an extremely common car, even the "limited" ones, except for the extremely limited runs like the 22b and S20x I mentioned above, and anyone that tells you they're collectible or appreciating in value is dreaming.
  10. A 22b maybe, or one of the S20-series cars. Nothing else is going to increase in value unless it's under 10000kms and in showroom original condition, in which case it will have some value due to shear rarity. Anyone that tells you that a three-quarters-flogged-out modified 555 edition is going up in value is either a dreamer, trying to sell you one, or both.
  11. Racetech RTROAD if you plan to leave it in all the time. Probably still work with a 3-point belt due to reduced wing height. RT4009 if you're going to remove it when you're not tracking it. For the money you can't go past a Racetech. Don't bother with the japanese stuff like Brides, they are made for pencil-width people. And skip any off-brand stuff, NZKW etc are probably not heinous but you get a lot more pedigree for a few hundred $ by going to a Racetech.
  12. No, not that collectible. Especially with that many K's. At the end of the day they're a relatively common car, and not terribly noteworthy. $8.5k is a SHITLOAD to pay for a mid-90s WRX with >200 thou on it that is no longer collectible because it's been modified anyway. You would need your head read if you bought it.
  13. Correct, marginally smaller. Apparently good to ~380wkw, but that's kinda internet mythology. I'll be running them with my baby BorgWarner, looking forward to the reliability and awesome heat shielding of OEM parts
  14. Yes. Most (all?) BP/BL Legacys are twinscroll. I have a set of the headers off one in my garage. The headers are slightly lower diameter than the STI ones, and have a different flange at both ends of the uppipe.