boon

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boon last won the day on March 20

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About boon

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  • Birthday 29/11/88
  1. This is a high-school level simplification of calculating mechanical grip; if it was the case nobody in big $$ drag racing would bother tubbing the chassis etc, they would just run ridiculously soft compound 215's and change them every run. There are obviously times where width won't do anything for you, i.e. ice/snow rally where you want maximum pressure to drive your studded tyres into the surface, but on tarmac more contact patch definitely equals more grip, all other factors remaining the same (compound etc)
  2. The diameter of your rim means precisely three fifths of nothing in terms of getting power down (ok it means a little bit around sidewall flex but that's more of a 1000hp problem) The width of your tyre does. With 268kw, if I apply the jandle at anything below about 80kph it will break all 4 tyres loose. That's with reasonable quality 235/45/R17 on a 17x8 rim.
  3. May as well cancel your insurance policy and just #YOLO it then, do you think if you stack it the insurance assessor isn't going to notice your adjusties and immediately void your insurance?
  4. If it's a manual, there is no solenoid. That's an auto thing.
  5. Meanwhile, my BPE (with factory moonroof ^__^) sits quietly being ignored.
  6. Before you get stuck in, it could be the idler pulley on that accessory belt getting noisy. Try rocking it with your hand, if it wobbles at all the bearing is shagged.
  7. I used to have a front lip, taking it off was one of the best things I ever did in terms of practicality of the car. You can either go up any driveway you want without worrying one bit about scraping it, or you can go about 50mm lower and get the same scrapyness.
  8. I've never heard of people having an issue with it, to be honest.
  9. Mine was originally set up with closed loop; after the latest revision with the big honking turbo we ditched the O2 sensor and just went open loop all the time and I actually get better fuel economy so I don't think you're missing out on much.
  10. Car: 2001 STI Tuned: Heaps. Holset Turbo and a Link, 1600cc injectors Fuel: BP98 Fuel Economy: I can sneak 500kms out of it. Purely open road driving, only giving it jandle for overtaking really. Flat out it will drink a little over 3L/minute. Other car: 2005 Legacy 3.0R Tuned: Nope Fuel: BP98 Economy: I can get it to nudge over 12km/L on the open road, so I could probably get about 700km from a completely full tank (60L?) Around town it's not flash.
  11. Modifying cars is fun, if we wanted value-for-money we would have bought Evos instead. Get some springs, chuck them in, make sure you don't rub. Keep the standard ones and put them back in when you go to sell it, at the very least you'll get a couple of afternoons worth of fun working on your car and you can just sell the springs when you move the car on, plus you'll learn a bit about what different changes feel like on the car. Don't bother with adjusties especially if you're not keeping the car much longer, IMO a whole lot of adjusties probably make the car handle worse than standard, just because it bounces around a whole bunch doesn't make it fast.
  12. 1996 V3 WRX GF8. Was a good little car. Saw it on Trademe a while ago actually.
  13. Legacy now at 172k STI still at 140ish hahahha
  14. 380wkw with a Tomei 82/65? If you can hit 300 flat I will be entirely stunned, even high 200's would surprise me. Sounds like you have a good platform for lots of power though
  15. Model: V7 STI Displacement: 2L Mods: Holset WH1C twisted, Link G4, 1600cc Injectors, Process West TMIC, Llama Engineering custom all sorts of stuff Fuel: BP 98 Octane Tuner/dyno: Chris Wall, STM Dynapack I suck and can't find my dyno plot. 268kw.