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boon

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boon last won the day on March 1

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  1. What model alarm do you have? Sounds a little bit like you might need to re-pair the remote(s), buggered if I know how you do it, you probably need the overrride code which is usually entered by turning the ignition on and off. Meanwhile your alarm will be freaking out and the siren will be howling, unless you've got the override key for that and can switch it off... or smash it off the firewall and drop it in a bucket.
  2. Hmm okay maybe it is a more curly one. Is it caused by _any_ load on the engine (having the car in gear will slightly load it, viscous coupling blah blah blah) or only in gear? Try loading it up a bit (Air con, headlights + heated seats if you have them) in Park and see if it dips. How does it run with some throttle? If it was a spark/miss issue I feel like it would be more pronounced with more RPM and load, things like coils or plugs usually behave like that. It does feel a little bit like a slight air/fuel problem. Inclined to say a very small vacuum leak (more likely after the throttle body) or perhaps an issue with one of your exhaust oxygen sensors, although those usually throw a CEL.
  3. EThrottle cars don't have a IACV. They just open the throttle a bit when they need more air. So, uh, the spark plugs. How many did you pull out? And if you pulled them out to inspect them, why didn't you just put new ones in? "Rough idle. Haven't changed my plugs. Any suggestions?" Yeah I've got one I can think of...
  4. Brand new OEM 12mm pump is $150 on amayama btw
  5. Q1. No, no gains, if anything you will slightly _lose_ as the aftermarket rods and pistons are potentially heavier, less well balanced, and not quite as good a fit as OEM. Assuming identical geometry, i.e. not gaining/losing compression. Stock turb and intercooler are never going to push the limits of even the stock internals if everything else is happy. Q2. I wouldn't bother just doing one. Either it's a forged build or it isn't. As to whether you would replace the pistons.... if you buy used pistons, you have no idea of their history. If you buy new pistons they're going to cost you about $500 for a set for stockies, is it worth it? I'd say probably not. Q4. The only factory internals I'd consider an "upgrade" are V7 STI EJ207 pistons and rods, and they're >$2000 for the pistons and around $800 for a set of rods, at which point you may as well just go aftermarket. Q5. Head gaskets, OEM. Rebuild kit in terms of bearings? YMMV. OEM are probably going to be the most reliable at stock power levels but might cost a metric assload. Q6. Yes, it's fine. Honestly unless #racecar where you have specific oil pressure needs, dicking about with the oil pump seems to lead to more problems than it's worth. Q7. As long as you weren't way out I'd probably nana it to the tuner, especially if you had slightly dropped compression rather than adding it. As long as you were comfortable it was driving well enough to make that trip safely. Anything turbo is kinda fundamentally variable compression anyway because the actual resultant cylinder pressure could be just about anything. With that out of the way.... I wouldn't bother with a rebuild to factory spec. A better option, IMO, is to just keep driving it on the assumption it will blow up at some stage, and in the meantime get another block and start building that one up properly (forged etc). Then when yours finally gives up the ghost, you have the option of throwing in a bigger turbo or something and making a bunch of power.
  6. Have you checked if maybe your $5 Aliexpress "alarm" is faulty? I'd start by confirming the output from the module with a multimeter. Secondarily, have you considered that maybe trusting your car's security (and safe operation, cos when the ignition switches off at 100kph in the middle of the night, whoops) to a cobbled together collection of s*** that was probably assembled by child labour at 3am is maybe not ideal?
  7. I'm about 90% sure this is spam. Prove me wrong.
  8. bruh, lol I mean come on. Re. the oil drain bits, AFAIK due to the tiny inlet restrictor built into the bearing housing these don't need to drain that much? The tech manual seems to think a fitting with ~0.4" bore into a 1/2" drain line is adequate.
  9. First issue is going to be that your BF5 probably has a cable driven speedo, and the 2001 probably has a hall-effect vehicle speed sensor. I have no idea if they are interchangeable.
  10. Plugging in a random ECU with an unknown tune and turning the key is a kinda terrible idea and it is 0% surprising that the car won't run with it. If the ECU was mapped for, say, a race car with 2000cc injectors and you're running stock 440s or something it's never going to run. I'd start by flashing a base map (if you can find a computer with a version of PCLink that will still talk to a PossumLink). Actually, no. I'd start by putting the PossumLink in a museum and installing an ECU from this millennium so your tuner doesn't hate you.
  11. Well this forum says I joined in 2009 but I definitely signed up on the old old forum, which is where I bought my old '96 GF8 that started this whole sillyness. EDIT: Oh RIP just checked the plate and it was stolen back in 2018.
  12. It was dereg'd in Jan' 2012, as above not looking great.
  13. My EFR came with a really small AN fitting threaded into the drain. But then it was also #racecar so maybe doing some bizarre stuff us road car plebs don't have access to. I've gone for whatever the Subaru factory oil return is - 5/8"?
  14. Could you substitute 31706AA034? Amayama has them for ~$1600. But at that point it might be worthwhile just looking for a wrecker transmission.
  15. Makes it a little tricky as they'll be less common over there. I'd go looking for a lower mileage wrecker motor.
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