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Found 27 results

  1. Car - 2006 Subaru Legacy 3.0R-B WAGON with McIntosh factory 12 speaker system. So I have the standard issue that the factory McIntosh sub has split (I got it repaired at Axent Audio in Auckland but within a few weeks it had split in another place) so I am keen to replace it. I have fitted a blue-tooth kit to the factory McIntosh head unit as I quite like the factory set up, and basically couldn't justify the massive effort and price in changing out the head unit with it being interconnected with the dual zone climate a/c unit. I have found a replacement Sub which is a KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-XW800F SHALLOW-MOUNT 8″ 4-OHM SUBWOOFER from Driving Sound on Dominion Road - kenwood-excelon-kfc-xw800f-shallow-mount-8-4-ohm-subwoofer. The McIntosh is 4 ohm and so is the Kenwood unit I have found. I like my music but wouldn't say I particularly crank it all that much, thus I am not keen to go and "start again" with the whole system in order to get some that is next level. I want to know if the Kenwood unit will work as a straight replacement and will work with the factory amp (under passenger seat) as I have read some forums which make me think it won't, but the people at Driving Sound seem to think it will. The next issue is fitting it into the back right corner of my wagon, as although the unit isn't any deeper it is slightly wider overall (behind the front of the sub) so the bracket space needs to be increased. I could pay another $200 bucks and get box for it but then I loose some boot space the factory look which is quite important to me. As I am new to Auckland, I wondered if there is an automotive fabricator/chippie or someone else handy who I should/could get to do it. I just need some assistance in carving out some more space in that back right corner and creating a slot for the new sub. I am happy to pay the money to get it done properly as opposed to stuffing it up myself! A quick Google landed me on "Stu's Trim and Sound in Manukau. I am sure they could do it easily enough - any other suggestions or comments on the above in terms of things I have overlooked?! cheers. Mark
  2. Found something broken, converted to parallel until I can replace said part (secondary bypass valve thing) and thought I\'d put this up, the internet makes it seem like such a hard job - it isn\'t. Changing oil takes longer. First off - this is the *Free* way to do this, takes you 20 minutes, and is 100% reversible in the same amount of time (you don\'t even need to cut any hoses, nothing). It will not be as good as a dedicated setup (with parallel headers etc) and not as good again as a single setup - however there\'s a lot to be said for cost. All this is doing is short-cutting the TT system to lock it into the same arrangement as is normal above 4500, so no you will do the car no damage and have nothing to lose. Secondly - if I\'ve gotten things wrong, please tell me. The reason I wrote this up is when googling for the diagram smurff put up years ago (which is down the bottom) I just found link after link of people either asking how to do it, know-it-alls going on about "I think it\'d be terrible, just convert to single turbo" without trying it, or people thinking it was a horrendous job of re-wiring, replumbing and confusion. You can make up your own mind about how it drives, some love it, some think it\'s a pig - I put some examples at the end of how mine drives. So first thing: Loosen off the heat shield on the secondary turbo. You don\'t need to remove it outright - just take off the two bolts on top and the one down close to the chassis rail. There\'s a bastard of one tucked underneath, but once you remove those 3 you can tilt it right back. Yay now you have access to the exhaust valve actuator rod - notice how it\'s threaded? Slightly off topic you can noticably change the behavior of the car by lengthening and shortening this rod, bit of trial and error but you can improve VOD and secondary spool a bit, bit of a balancing act. ANYWAY - unscrew this right out. It\'s a reverse thread, and the locking nuts can get pretty stuck on there too. Keep winding until the little hexagonal rod falls off, or hopefully you grabbed it before it fell and got stuck in the steering rack. Now it\'s pretty tight, but try and wire the bottom half of the rod down, basically rod down = valve open. It holds itself down anyway but may as well keep it there. IF you were doing this permanently, you would either remove the valve, or make a new up-pipe. The piping guide at the bottom suggests tricking the car into permanently opening it with pressure - I just took the short cut. Now put the heat shield back on. There is a vacuum hose going to this valve - this is the one which opens and closes the secondary turbo off from the intercooler outlet. It\'s held closed by vacuum... So pull the hose off, its spring loaded to stick open. Done. In theory you now have the TT system stuck open. (Oh yeah, block the hose off) Last thing - you need to block the secondary dump valve OR tee it into your other BOV, it\'s the relief valve the TT system uses to pre-spool the secondary (the hose which runs from secondary turbo, to a plastic arm, then a black thing which is just a BOV but not used as one... sort of). Mine has a massive bolt in the hose (cause I\'m redneck bro) and this is temporary, what you are MEANT to do is to tee it into the main BOV line. I would have, but this thing being snapped is the reason I did this in the first place so uh.. yeah. In theory you can now go for a drive, and then watch the check engine light come on after the first few times you floor it. Reason being - the ECU in these things has a MAP sensor with the sole job of watching for boost to be on just primary, then on both to make sure the TT system is functioning correctly. One side of it goes after the intercooler valve and is watching primary boost, the other is in the plastic arm to the secondary relief valve thing. Luckily here\'s something Subaru prepared earlier - the hose which goes to the TOP of the exhaust valve actuator conveniently has nothing coming through it until about 4 grand when it starts to get boost through it. You unplug this - and instead join it to the hose going to the map sensor. Pro photo mid-work below - if you\'ve replaced your hoses with pretty ones, the hose you use is the back one of the two running up the firewall. Blank off the hose which ran from the plastic arm bit, it has no use now. The hose to the top of the ECV is number 8, and the one to the MAP sensor is number 22. FYI the one to the bottom of the ECV gets vacuum only as a way of being able to half-open the valve. Now that is literally it - there is no messing around with wiring, if you want to undo this (and to be honest it\'s quite likely you will) you just reverse what has been done. Just don\'t burn your hands. So - how does it drive - whats the benefits and why would you do this? I don\'t know if my car is a prime example but here\'s what I have found anyway - it\'s laggy and the long legs the legacy got makes things worse. Best comparison I can give is it\'s similar to an 1.8L GSR with a TD05, pretty doughy down low but worth it once it wakes up. Basically feels n/a below 3500. 5th gear @ 3k (100kph ish) gets you about 0.5-0.6 bar boost and a corresponding lack of speed. Dropping to fourth at the same speed (about 4 grand?) it will hit about 1 bar in around a second - in comparison with it TT it would spool the primary, hit VOD in an instant and then start to spool. From a standing start or dropping back a gear on the move it (parallel) canes the TT (sequential) setup as it just wakes both up, however say goodbye to getting a kick from booting it in second on a roll like you used to. I haven\'t driven something with one of the z/s sequential controllers on - so can\'t comment on how it compares to that. The sound is drastically changed - it has a hint of the normal burble at idle but to be fair it sounds like ass until it starts to get some boost into it. Not much different to tuned length headers or a non turbo suby I guess - once it does get some boost on board I love it, sounds like nothing else. IF I was to carry on with this I\'d be looking to get some proper headers and downpipes for it and try to improve the spool up, mine still has factory downpipes including primary cat which won\'t be helping matters. You *could* look to use a V5/6 ecu as per a normal single conversion - and that\'d make sense to do - but isn\'t quite so reversable and involves spending $$ (I understand there is a difference in CR 8.5 / 9.0 between STi and B4?). If you could get the spool up improved a bit it\'d be a pretty sweet way to do things. I have seen it mentioned that some remove (and block off) the joiner pipe which connects left and right banks - the problem there is that you lose boost control to the 2ndry turbo - at the moment when the single WG on the primary vents, it\'s dumping gas from the whole manifold hence why it works just fine. I get absolutely 0 spiking or flickering on boost with the way things are now. In terms of outright speed - pass? 0-100 times are a bit hard to compare, 0-400m won\'t happen with this car - I timed it at under 3.5 sec 80-120k so it\'s got pace enough for me at least. To do this to a BG/BD it is effectively the same - not sure if the hoses are numbered the same, but where they run to and from is. I\'ve tried and tried to get it to throw a CEL at me but so far so good, things seem happy (touch wood). Here\'s the diagrams as well - only thing I do different is not doing anything with the ECV hoses. Writing this post up took me 3 times as long but I know some find a diagram way way harder to follow than just a photo. Anyway - have fun
  3. Hey guys, I have a 1999 Legacy Rev B that has the auto EJ206 in it which I will be removing and manually converting (car is being painted by a friend to showcase to employers). I also plan to have something done with the engine at the same, but I'm not too sure on the route to take. I would like the end result to be single turbo with pretty much standard performance as it will be my daily driver, but I can't decide on either rebuilding the current engine or swapping in an engine from a Forester. If I were to get a Forester engine I would give it a refresh but not to headgaskets. I am leaning more towards keeping the current engine but it's done 230k and I'm not sure about the open deck design. Will it be easier to single turbo convert with a Forester engine or will it be easier to keep the current engine? Cheers guys!
  4. Hey Team, Have any of you had to replace an in tank fuel pump on a gen 4 3.0r Legacy? Looking around found that GOSS do a replacement pump for a good price, but different sources say to use one of two models (GE271 or GE272). Has anyone gone through this process? What brand did you use, who stocked it etc any info would be a great help. Cheers!
  5. Hi guys, My power steering pump is screeching quite badly on cold starts but seems to happen more likely on warm days. So when I start the car, it immediately makes a very loud screeching noise and goes away once I get the car moving a bit/give it a bit of gas. I thought it could be the pulley but recently it started to stop working as well after the cold start for about a second when turning the wheel. Will try and get a video, but I just tried to get some videos this morning but it decided to start up without making a noise or anything. Anyone had the same problem before? The real question I need answered is whether I need to replace the pump completely, or can it be rebuilt/repaired whatever. Car is 2007 Legacy BP5 turbo JDM. Thanks in advanced people!
  6. I have a BP5 JDM 3.0R-B, I was coming home back into Auckland from Rotorua yesterday, and on the dash below the tacho where the trip meter info normally shows how many km's of range left, km's done etc etc, a number "3" flashed up along with some Japanese writing for about 4-5 seconds and then disappeared. It did it 2 or 3 times. I have had the car 7 months/10,000km and never seen this before. It flashed up too quickly to have time to take a photo of it. Has anyone seen this before and know what it is telling me?!?! Cheers.
  7. So after purchasing my first legacy over the weekend, I need to get Bluetooth installed. Vehicle is a 2004 Legacy B4 with the standard Mcintosh stereo system. Firstly, it's pretty difficult getting cd's sounding decent. Have tried playing with the mids/treble/bass etc and can't get it sounding satisfactory. Seems that it requires some sort of boost. Are there any hidden settings? Or have people found good eq settings for the equipment? I tend to listen to a lot of Rock too. Secondly, how difficult is it to get the system replaced in it's entirety? I assume this is pretty expensive to get professionally done? Partner had a Mazda with the Bose system installed and that was a nightmare replacing. But well worth it in the end. Thirdly, are there any Bluetooth kits that people can recommend, maybe just have it sitting in the glove box etc? Again thanks for the help
  8. Hey all, New to the site and Subaru's in general. I'm looking at purchasing my first this weekend. And wanted to know whether there is anything I should be checking/looking for when I test drive this weekend. Also, whether there are any big differences between the 2l and 3.0r's other than engine size. Also whether these prices are realistic for the vehicles. Here are the vehicles on the list so far: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1473302503.htm https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1468951369.htm https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-1477983584.htm Thanks in advance for your help and advice
  9. Hello once again team! I am looking to do some cheapish exhaust mods to me 3.0r sedan based off what I have read online. So far the menu looks like this. Delete 3rd Cat. Replace centre muffler with 2.5" redline resonator. So far I have some saying leave the centre muffler alone or youll (drone) regret it. And others saying do what you like it does next to nothing. Has anyone gone down this path before? Keen to hear your tips. Cheers!
  10. Hi all, first time posting on here - im massively stuck on an issue i’ve had with the legacy for quite a while now basically it sounds like a front wheel bearing knackered - but ive changed both and also both cv axles (driveshafts) not only is there a crazy rumbling noise, something is also causing the car to wander when at expressway speeds (like a steering joint is worn...) HELP!!! Surely there is someone on here that has experienced a similar issue Really appreicate any response or suggestions - thanks!!
  11. Hi all, as you can see this is a dummy account Ive created because my main one is not showing topics atm. Anyway I'm just after a bit of advice. Ive got a 2004 3.0r legacy with the standard (Kenwood?) GX-201JE stereo. Just recently the display has died, stereo still works, HVAC display still works. The only thing thats not working is the display for the stereo. Ive pulled it apart hoping there was a bad connection or similar easy problem I could fix but have come up short. At this stage I am looking at replacing it with another unit/faceplate thats standard as well and have found a GX-203JE to swap out with. Does anyone know whether the GX-201JE and the GX-203JE are a straight swap? Visually they look identical but I'm buying online and can't direct compare them. Thanks
  12. Hey team! Have been quoted $550 to replace a front wheel hub on my '05 Legacy BLE Spec B Sedan. After doing some research I have determined that it is probably a backyard type job with the right tools and a mate or two with experience. I have found a couple of hub pricings but want to see if any of you have dealt with these brands before or know of any alternatives. Febest - $140 FBJ - $80 Subaru Genuine - $300 ish Any other tips or tricks about the job as a whole would be appreciated too, I think I have a good handle on how to do it but if there are any hidden pitfalls I would like to hear about it.
  13. In lieu of a new Technical board structure being implemented soon, here are the workings for the new FAQ posts to replace all technical stickies, and hopefully most of your searches. This is a temporary post because it isn't helping anyone locked away while I'm too busy to finish it. Please post additional useful links as a new post for a Mod to add to the list. Mods, I've tried to categorise things logically and keep double-ups to a minimum. PM me any questions. Cheers, kamineko INFORMATIONAL Documents Every JDM brochure - chappell943 SUBARU PARTS CATALOGUE - B4 2000 Workshop Manuals Workshop Service Manuals - Stoffa Gen 1 Legacy workshop manual - slystiguy Gen 3 and 4 workshop manuals - paulngui Legacy 1998-2003 Service Manual (GEN III incl RSK/GT) - suubyduuby Workshop manual BE/BH 2003MY. Covers TT 4442 pages by Fuji Heavy Industries - Rosssub FORESTER 1999-2002 Workshop Manual - luvmaforzzy pdf Engine manual for a Ej20t Dohc - subaru-mania Vacuum Diagrams and Solenoid Placements for WRX - Swindog Gadget Manuals Programming Keyless Entry Info All Legacy GT/b's Installation manuals (Timers/Controllers etc) - Joker Zero Sports Sequential Controller DIY translation - nncoolg G4 pdf manual - evowrx GFB G-Force 2 Boost Controller Manual Gizzmo Ibc Manual Model Codes & Specifications Impreza WRX Classic Model Codes - kamineko JDM WRX ECUS - kamineko JDM WRX Brake setups - kamineko Factory Power/Torque/Kerb Weights for all GC/GF Models. - thorpy How to decipher model/chassis codes (JDM vehicles) - boostin Legacy JDM Legacy applied model codes - readosnr Legacy BL BP info - subieboy Forester JDM Forester applied model codes -readosnr Engine ECU basics from ScoobyMods including reset & CEL Reading procedures V3/4 Sti Shim under aftermarket valves Part Numbers - thorpy Intercooler and Other Related FAQ's - Swindog Turbo Subaru Turbo System explained - Stoffa Turbo FAQ's - Swindog More IHI Turbo specs - Shale Drivetrain Manual Transmission Ratios - By Johnnynz Subaru Gearbox Chart V2 - GC8E2DD Subaru Gearbox Code Chart Electrical Full list of fault codes - Boostin Check Engine Light CEL Codes - kamineko Subaru ABS Fault Codes Power Light Fault Codes (Automatic Transmission) - arsenal69 Wiring guides and pinouts - ReubenH ECU Pinouts BC5 BG5a WRX (4 plug) pinouts V7 STI ECU Diagram jollygreenmonster.com ECU pinouts
  14. Was driving my car home tonight (2007 Legacy GT JDM), stopped at the lights and then took off, this weird exhaust-y noise came from the front of my car closer to engine bay, I thought it was a Honda next to me at first but then realised it car from my car. I stopped on the side and turned off the car and started it back up again, still had that noise.. A bit louder through the lower rpms, and I can't really hear my exhaust from the back (HKS hi flow exhaust).. Also feels like there's less power.. Gonna take her to the mechanic tomorrow morning, but any ideas what it could be? I checked under the hood once I got home, couldn't find anything unusual..
  15. Alright guys, I've had a look in the search bar to see if this has already been asked, couldn't find anything... so here goes. I am looking to import a 2007 - 2009 BP Legacy wagon and i'm struggling to decide between the two main engine options, the 3.0R and the 2.0T. I will be getting a Spec B with the 6 speed manual regardless of what engine i decide on, so i was wanting some feedback from y'all on your experiences. My main questions are the following: - which would be faster? - which is easier overall to live with? reliability etc. - does the EZ30 have much of an aftermarket? or is it primarily a exhaust swap and a tune to boost power and thats it? - fuel economy, what sort of figures do you see in your 2.0T/EZ30? this wont really matter TBH but would be interesting to see. - insurance... that old chestnut. im guessing the EZ30 will be cheaper to insure? Any information is totally welcomed. Thanks team!
  16. Just sharing the information I am working on another Raptor Supercharged H6 3.0 5EAT https://www.facebook.com/groups/SubaruTuningInternational/permalink/287129068422598/ http://www.xtremeracingtuning.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=748 https://www.facebook.com/XtremeRacingTuning/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/SubaruTuningInternational/
  17. Hey, Currently running KYB shocks (unknown model) and am looking to replace or upgrade if possible. KYB haven't seen me wrong so interested in either: Part numbers for the OEM replacement strut/shocks Part numbers for the AGX variant strut/shocks so I can try to source these offshore Or... any recommendations for strut/shock replacement options Any good suppliers for any of the above Details are: BD5A TT Legacy RS, high KM's and standard springs/suspension. Daily motorway driver but am looking for improvements with open road / uphill / downhill Rimutaka performance. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks, DS
  18. Hi all. Because dumb question thread seems to have gone will ask here. I have a fair bit of smoke coming out of bonnet scoop after a bit of hard driving. There are no oil spots on my drive, no signs of leakage anywhere and oil level isn't dropping at all. Seems from what I've looked at that it's not coming from the turbos but more from under the intercooler. Only other thing to add is I think I may have a little too much oil in the car atm. Thanks guys
  19. Hi guys, I have an 03 Legacy wagon with the base (kenwood) stereo in it. I have an opportunity to buy the McIntosh stereo, amp and speakers with door cards for only $250. Just wondering if this sort of a conversion is possible or if it isnt worth the hassle? Thanks, Sam
  20. Hi guys, been on this forum for some time but I'm not a regular user. Just a quick intro, my name's Manny and I drive a '06 BP5 - VERY HAPPY WITH IT I'm hoping someone can point in the right direction. Has anyone swapped out their front seats? My drivers seat is worn and there is a hole in it, rather than getting the seat re-upholstered it appears to be more cost efficient to just swap it out. I know there will be a few bolts to undo but is there anything I need to look out for? Is it fairly straight forward? In other cars I've owned there have been airbag connections under the seat. I found a Youtube video for the rear seat, but couldn't find anything helpful for the front ones. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
  21. The viscous coupling in my legacy 3.0R 6spd MT is on its way out, Binds when turning. I was wondering who on here has had the joy of replacing theres and who did you buy it from. I have a price from the local dealer, part only they want a staggering $1500+gst. The same bit out of Sydney is AU $899 and $80 postage, Cheaper but there will be duty on top of that. So i'm hopeing there is some where in NZ that has them for a reasnoble price. Thanks
  22. Hey Club Sub members, greetings! As my first post I'd like to ask for some advice... Just as a preface, I'm great with IT & computers, cars and audio electrical, not so much... I've recently bought a 2006 Legacy Wagon (B-Sport 2ltr). Sadly, it came with the factory Kenwood head unit and factory speakers. I bought one of these yesterday and installed it without a hitch: http://www.jonvy.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=4447&search=subaru It works really well. I generally just play music/podcasts from my phone, so it's perfect. I opened up one of the front doors next to check out the speakers. They're the horrible looking cardboard factory jobs. I have a couple of cheapish sets of 6" JVC speakers I've had sitting round for a while I want to install. I believe I need these: http://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/product/speaker-spacers/706/no905-universal-spacer-6/151234/detail , as the factory speakers have their own attached plastic spacer thingie. They also have the factory plug that connects to the cabling that goes back to the head unit. I have a couple of questions: - are those the correct spacers? They look to be the right size, shape to me. I'm guessing I may need to drill a couple more holes in them to fit the speakers perfectly. - How do I go about wiring the new speakers in to the plug currently in the vehicle. Does anyone know of a place that sells an adapter? As you can guess I'm not 100% confident in this, but I do want to learn. And I don't want to pay a car audio place to install when it doesn't appear to be that difficult. thanks!
  23. Hi Team, I've been troubleshooting an issue for awhile with my O2 AFM. Symptoms is delayed reading of the O2 sensor after startup. Brand new 4 wire O2 sensor has been installed after the last one appeared intermittent. After starting the car it will read at 14.7 for between 8-10mins on average then seems to work as expected. First we thought that it might be an issue with the heater. Jason (gotasuby) and I did some tests and found the ECU wasn't providing an earth for the heater. After shorting the heater circuit to ground to force it to heat we found the ECU still didn't take a reading from the sensor. We were alternating the heater circuit on and off but didn't want to do it for a long period of time to avoid any damage. Can any other 07~ owners let me know if they have noticed similar behaviour on theirs ? Mine will do this regardless if its a cold start or a hot start.
  24. I have a set of four (4) brand new 1000cc FIC injectors for sale as build plans have changed and these are no longer needed. Direct Fit for the Factory Fuel Rail for the following Subaru: Subaru WRX, 2000-2014. Subaru Legacy GT, 2007-2012. Subaru STI, 2007-2015 (Models with EJ20T Motor). Price: $480 Shipping: $5.50 tracked, non rural. Located in East Auckland (Botany) for pick up. Best way to contact me is via mobile (021 169 3111).
  25. Hi all Im doing a turbo engine swap into a currently non turbo tx-s legay. Im hoping some body here can give me some pointers on loom stuff and what route I could take to carry this out. The engine is a twin turbo ej 20 running a single turbo setup. The engine is complete and has the loom upto the plugs that go through the fire wall. I have a v3 sti Ecu which according to the seller was running the engine well. My question is though what would be my best option for the wiring harness through the fire wall? Could I get another harness from a turbo car and run that through the car or should I pull apart the harness from the non turbo I have and add in the missing wires for the ecu? Or am I completely off track? Any and all input is appreciated. Thanks in advance.