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Found 49 results

  1. Car - 2006 Subaru Legacy 3.0R-B WAGON with McIntosh factory 12 speaker system. So I have the standard issue that the factory McIntosh sub has split (I got it repaired at Axent Audio in Auckland but within a few weeks it had split in another place) so I am keen to replace it. I have fitted a blue-tooth kit to the factory McIntosh head unit as I quite like the factory set up, and basically couldn't justify the massive effort and price in changing out the head unit with it being interconnected with the dual zone climate a/c unit. I have found a replacement Sub which is a KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-XW800F SHALLOW-MOUNT 8″ 4-OHM SUBWOOFER from Driving Sound on Dominion Road - kenwood-excelon-kfc-xw800f-shallow-mount-8-4-ohm-subwoofer. The McIntosh is 4 ohm and so is the Kenwood unit I have found. I like my music but wouldn't say I particularly crank it all that much, thus I am not keen to go and "start again" with the whole system in order to get some that is next level. I want to know if the Kenwood unit will work as a straight replacement and will work with the factory amp (under passenger seat) as I have read some forums which make me think it won't, but the people at Driving Sound seem to think it will. The next issue is fitting it into the back right corner of my wagon, as although the unit isn't any deeper it is slightly wider overall (behind the front of the sub) so the bracket space needs to be increased. I could pay another $200 bucks and get box for it but then I loose some boot space the factory look which is quite important to me. As I am new to Auckland, I wondered if there is an automotive fabricator/chippie or someone else handy who I should/could get to do it. I just need some assistance in carving out some more space in that back right corner and creating a slot for the new sub. I am happy to pay the money to get it done properly as opposed to stuffing it up myself! A quick Google landed me on "Stu's Trim and Sound in Manukau. I am sure they could do it easily enough - any other suggestions or comments on the above in terms of things I have overlooked?! cheers. Mark
  2. So I bought a 2006 Subaru Legacy Wagon that had minor outer panel damage to both doors on the passenger side. Randomly found a dude scrapping a car of the same model and colour, but Few years newer and higher spec than mine and managed to change the doors over myself. However, after I changed the doors and fired up the audio system for the first time (stock audio system in Subaru), I discovered the speakers just in the replaced doors don't work at all. I definitely correctly connected the speakers back up before I replaced the door panels. Audio system in the wrecked car was a Macintosh. I also bought the speakers from the guy and tried those and they don't work either. I'm assured that the speakers worked fine in the old car before it was wrecked. Anyone know any simple reason for the speakers in the replacement doors not working? Would the wiring be different from one year to the next of the same model car and therefore not be compatible with my audio system? Cheap and easy fix for an auto electrician or na? Thanks for any help in advance.
  3. Hi all, Over from the UKLegacy forums as I know quite a lot of you kiwis and aussies and have the tt leggys too! Was wondering if someone can shed some light on an issue im having. Car has been running like sh1t- poor fuel economy, lumpy acceleration, lumpy on idle when started from hot, struggles to stay alive as the revs want to drop. Plugged in SSM cable and front o2 sensor voltage was reading 0.000v. Cleaned the plug... still nothing. Replaced the sensor with a bosch universal 3 wire and its still showing 0.000v. Jumps to about .02v for a split second when the throttle is pressed but instantly drops back to 0v. When I test the black signal wire at the plug where the sensor joins the loom, there is 0.45v at idle (this is about right as this would suggest a normal AFR). This suggests the sensor is working and reading accurately. At the ecu however, the voltage is different. Service manual says that at the ecu plug, the o2 should see between 2.3-2.8v (iirc) . At the ecu pin, mine showed 0.80v with the car idling and o2 sensor unplugged. When plugged in, it jumped to 1.1v but fluctuated massively (down to about 0.6v when revved in neutral and back up to 1+ but never as high as 2v+. I tested the pins on the loom-side plug on the car to see if they were getting power. The heater wire pin was easy to identify as it was getting a solid 12v. The other white was the ground but was still getting like 0.5v. The signal wire itself was also getting about 0.38v which I found a bit strange but I dont understand enough about auto electrics to make sense of it. I tried bypassing the entire wiring to see if it was a wiring fault but didnt make much headway. I ran pins from all 3 ports on the o2 sensor plug. The heating elements went straight to the battery positive and negative terminals to simulate the 12v and the ground. The signal wire was ran directly from the 02 plug inside the car and alligator clipped to a paperclip jammed in the back of the 02 signal wire at the ecu. On ssm it showed a constant .330v (usually what a broken o2 will show). It would not move despite revving the car and stank of fuel due to it telling the car its was running a lean mix. Took it to a garage today and the lad was adamant that I should start with an oem sensor as universal ones are bad for subarus apparently. They dont agree with universal sensors etc. This wouldn't be an issue but the oem sensors are like £180/$250+ and im a student lol. Is there anything else I can try before buying one? This is the second universal bosch o2 inside 8 months, this is the reason Im worried it isnt the actual fault of the sensor. Im fairly confident there is something else weird going on with the ecu/wiring. Any help is much appreciated, thank you troops
  4. hi guys ive just bought my first subaru had been a v8 fan for years but decided to try something new , i have a 2005 legacy blitzen single turbo manual its nice car runs well been looked after, i have not been able to find any info on this model i found lots on twin turbo , did this come out with a single turbo or is it aftermarket any info be cool cheers
  5. It is a Subaru Legacy S401 STI. Sold - New Zealand New not Import Produced on the BE platform with input from the ‘STI’ performance division, the S401 was released in 2002 featuring a twin sequential turbo 2.0L EJ208 engine producing 289 horsepower and 253 of torque, mated to a 6-speed manual gearbox (taken from the Impreza WRX STI). The highlight of this model though, was that it was the last Subaru model to feature the sequential twin turbocharging first introduced in 1993 in the 1st generation of the model. Unfortunately Subaru’s concept never was able to be fully refined (owing to noticeable turbo lag between the transitional periods of both turbochargers at 3,500-4,000 RPM), and the S401 was a ‘sayonara’ to the design as Subaru moved back to single-turbocharged units. Only 400 were produced, mainly sold within the Japanese market (although 2 made it into Australiasia / New Zealand). Basically, Subaru decided “Hey, this is the last of the twin turbo Legacies, lets get STI to throw the lot at it and make the ultimate Twin Turbo Legacy”. What did it get? Well, 6 Speed manual gearbox, front LSD, retuned ECU, hand-built engine, STI exhaust, Intercooler pipes, full STI suspension, big ass Brembo brakes, some lush BBS 18″wheels, exclusive front bumper, side skirts and intercooler scoop. It also gets a stunning half leather/Alcantara interior, red stitching, and an STI full dash cluster. There’s a few other bits here and there, but that’s the main parts. This Japanese website lists everything in detail, it’s an amazing site. It’s a really nice place to be, the seats are very comfortable and the interior is simple and easy to use. The 6 speed gearbox, mostly shared with various other STI and later model Legacies, is lovely to use, direct with short ratios. The STI suspension is nothing short of amazing. Cruising down the motorway it’s firm, and flat, but sucks up all the bumps like they are nothing. Hit some corners, and it’s flat and just grips and grips. The S401 was a limited edition, and they were apparently going to make 400 of them, hence the number is ***/400 on the badging. In reality, they never made that target, and there were only approx 290 cars made ever making this 401 a very rare NZ new car. mine is #233/400 i do have photos and am happy to answer any further questions. This car is extremely genuine and I would like to pass it on to a genuine buyer who would appreciate what it is. I’m open to offers
  6. Hi guys, I'm wanting more information on cert costs for the removal of factory steering wheel with airbag. The car is 19 years old so it meet the LVVTA age requirements for removal but if it's gonna cost $800 odd dollars then I'm not gonna bother. Cheers
  7. Not sure if this has been done before. Certainly not many write ups online if it has... I've spent the last couple weeks researching how to do it and found some really useful information. A lot of it is for the Gen 4 Legacy though. What I start with is this: I have a 2013 BR Legacy. Its a 2.5L NA. Top of the line package with full leather, McIntosh/GPS, 5.1 speakers, eyesight. My first Subaru and first legacy I've owned. Every Legacy on the lot had the standard version stereo with the touch-to-open pouch under it. Me wanting to have something different got this one. Straight away, I realised the stereo and GPS system was technology from the mid 90s. (I know cause I was driving back then) Its good to see Subaru finally realised this and have put a new system into the 2020 Legacy!! After some checking around I found that there was no easy way to replace the head unit. I could get a fascia package that would allow to put in a standard ol' single din head unit like these: I wasn't keen on that. Also it wouldn't change the screens GPS. That's all in Japanese. For the life of me, couldn't work out how to change the language. I did however work out how to change the dashboard language thanks to Aussie, James HEAL on YouTube. Awesome mate.! Then I found these on Ali Express. It promises A LOT....Radio, USB, Bluetooth, Reverse Camera, OBD, Video (playstation/Go-Pro etc), GPS, Internet access. ALL WITH PLUG AND PLAY. COMES WITH ALL THE CONNECTIONS TO RETAIN FACTORY OPTIONS......mmm, yeah right.. This one is a CUSP brand. But there's several different brands. All of a much the same except different resolution and memory card size etc. Its of course from China. You might have your own ideas on Ali Express/Chinese products so lets leave those out and move on.... The first company I contacted was actually CARBAR, who, when I asked about a RHD version said.."No, we suggest you find something else." My options were pretty limited. I also asked on this forum for ideas. It came down to: 1: Put up with the radio (needing a band expander). The GPS will never work. 2: Find a NZ new version of the McIntosh. $$$$$$$ 3: Try and work something out with this android version. 4: Covert everything over to the standard spec car version with the stereo/no GPS. There are lots of options for an android head unit for these versions cars...Just not the premium version.! Still a fair of $$ to get one out of a wreck, and the GPS will still be crap/nothing. I then contacted CUSP and asked if they have a RHD version. They said, "yes. sure". Being wary of the price ($750 NZ) and my previous experiences of such retail agencies, I offered to send a photo. I sent them a photo of my dash. They reconfirmed, "yes this will fit your car perfectly." So, I took the chance and sent the money, along with a "thanks. And to confirm, I want a black version...Right hand drive". It arrived quick, like 5 days. Black. And LEFT HAND DRIVE. I knew this was too good to be true. I emailed them straight back. She told me that this is the only version they have and they sell them all over the world. They suit any model car. Anyone can see that its not symmetrical. I relayed again that she was wrong. I understand I'm in the minority here in NZ having a RHD car, but these do NOT suit every model. She reconfirmed that I was worried about nothing and just needed to send it to an expert for installation. She had spoken to her experts and again told me that these were interchangeable between left and right hand drive. I'm not sure if their intellect is low or they believe mine is?. Either way, I wasn't going to get far. If I wanted to, I could send it back at my cost. Maybe $100 or so. Then I'm stuck back at stage 1, hating my 90's stereo. Having done several ICE installs before, and a typical kiwi that refuses to believe things can't be done, I decided to just have a go. I started to do some digging on the internet on how to remove the McIntosh and install this android one. Removing the McIntosh was easy enough. Finding info on what the plugs were on the back was near impossible!. How many different versions of the McIntosh do they need?? To remove the fascia. Just stick your fingers, or a small hooked tool into the air vent on the passenger side. Start giving it a little tug and it will pop loose. Then use your hands to continue around the fascia. It will all come free. No screws. *Hint number 1: The plastic in these cars is EXTREMELY soft. It will scratch at the slightest touch. I strongly suggest tucking rags/cloth all over the console where things will touch. There is SO much info out there on the Gen 4. But not so much on the Gen 5. Then, when I did find info on the Gen 5, it was the Non GPS/Premium version. There was just nothing out there. Slowly, over the course of about a week, I found the information I needed. Here's a pic of the back of the McIntosh GPS version. (If I've made a mistake here, please let me know...I'll amend it) So...plug and play right? umm,...nope. - B-CAS...Not needed in NZ. - Hands free mic. Not needed. HU comes with its own. Leave in the dash or strip it out. - Sirius input. Not needed. - GPS signal/antenna. HU comes with a new one. Just leave the lead in the dash. The kit from China came with a harness for a forester and a harness for a legacy. The main harness fits right in. Sweet!. It also came with the fitting plates for the side of the head unit. These attached fine and fit the mounting points well. Good!! First thing I tried to hook up was the aerial. Well that isn't the same. My version has a twin aerial. You can find it by pulling the plastic at the passengers right knee. Again, no screws. It will just pull off. *Hint number 2: Only pull it off as far as the gearstick area. I think from memory that means pulling out 3 lugs? Don't pull beyond that, as it IS screwed on after that. It is more than enough space to work in there for the aerial. The one sent to me has a single aerial input, like below.. So, right away. That's not going to work 100% is it? I did a whole lot of checking and found that my legacy does have a twin aerial, which apparently switches connection based on whether the Head unit is getting a weak signal. Further checks showed that most aftermarket places around NZ were selling legacy attachments with only one aerial. This made me wonder if I simply didn't really need them both? It was worth a go. I was given the harness for free right? Next issue, is that the Chinese one has 3 ridges (seen in the pic). The male version I have on the car only has one groove. I decided to try shaving them off. Done with a Stanley knife. The plastic is soft and came off easy. Next, is that the Chinese one comes with a power antenna lead. I pulled this out as my car doesn't have a power antenna, just the window imprinted ones. Once this was all done, the plug (kinda) clicked on OK. I was able to search on the head unit and it found 2 stations. 2 stations. Not exactly amazing. I was thinking that I really needed the whole twin aerial thing. Secondly, the Chinese plug and play aerial harness is only about 150mm long and doesn't even reach the head unit. The logic behind this baffles me.... So, plan B... PLAN B: Cut off the Chinese adapter at the female socket. Giving me nice new aerial pin to go into the back of the H.U. (head unit). Then cut off the female off my McIntosh. This way, I know it fits right. I have 2 aerials and heaps of length on the cord. Here you can see I've cut both the aerial cords. (cut off the McIntosh unit). Twist the two lots of negative together and twist the two lots of positive (centre core wire) together. Do the same on the Chinese single lead. You now have two leads reducing into one. Slide a length of heat shrink onto one of them. Twist the positives together. Twist the negatives together. Solder each of them a little to get a good solid join. Slide the heat shrink over the join and mould it with your lighter/whatever. You can see on my picture, I used insulation tape. Its OK, but heat shrink is better and wont come off over time. I had to go get some more heat shrink after doing this, cause I realised I would need more later. Being the stock plug. It fit back onto the male end perfectly. It clicks in with the lock (instead of just sliding on with the Chinese one) and it also retains the pin which clicks into the body of the car. I plugged the screen back onto the H.U to see if that was better. It would still only search and find 2 stations!. I could manually stop the search onto a known band and it would find the station now though. Just not on auto search. Positive but why's it doing this?. Having a fiddle with it, brings me to hint number 3: * Look back at the picture of the screen. (3rd pic up). See the red radio icon at the top of the screen.? Under that is a circular icon that looks like a radar. Tap that. Its changes the settings from "Local Stereo" to "DX Stereo" Boom...every station you could want. Mint reception. I don't know if the whole single aerial or twin aerial matters here, cause me changing the settings made it work. What I do know, is the stock one clicks together better. With this issue solved, it was time to move onto the next. I needed to get some volume to this thing. Cause right now, the android HU has RCA's for amp inputs. And there are NO RCA's in the front of this car!. Next pic shows the 4 speaker RCA's and 1 Sub RCA. After 2 hours searching on the internet, I discovered that: A) my McIntosh amp is under the drivers seat and B) sends the signal to the HU via a 20 pin plug. Not a 13 like previous Legacy's. (citation needed) (Remember, there is SO little info on gen 5s being modified yet). If I peer deep down into the dash, (space where the H.U goes) I can spot where the Amp lead goes to: You will find this the same way you found the aerial plug. But on the drivers side this time. Again just pull on the plastic cover where the drivers left knee is. Pulling it off, I found 2 of these leads! WTF right? Which one is for Amp? and what's the second one for? Again, a couple hours searching on the internet....I cant find anyone saying they have 2 of these leads here. The black one definitely ended up leading to the amp under the drivers seat. I couldn't trace the other grey one as it ends up wrapped in the loom and disappears in the passengers glove box area. Then I found a post on ClubSub where Guitar_Guy had decided to have a go at combining his McIntosh amp in his 2004 Subaru with an aftermarket HU. It showed that, on the circuit board inside the HU were the wire colours and speaker indication. (RR, LR, FL, FR, SUB etc). While his comments on which colour was which, were slightly incorrect, I could make out what he'd done. This helped heaps. Cheers for that. I could see that both these 20 pin leads went into my McIntosh HU and I now accepted that I needed to pull the whole McIntosh HU apart to see what this grey 20 pin does, hoping it would have similar descriptions as Guitar-Guy's one showed. I found that BOTH these leads were amplifier feeds. The black one did the 2 rear speakers and the sub. The Grey did the front speakers and the centre dash speaker. So, that confirmed both leads were needed. Why does the grey lead not follow the black one to the amp?. Well, there's a second amp under the passengers seat. No where could I find info that suggested this. I don't know if its standard on gen 5's? Or if its only on the GPS version?. Anyway that's what I was working with. A little searching online revealed there was NO way I was going to get a patch lead that would go from 20 pin to RCA. Each lead is custom designed for the number of wires/pins needed in that particular setup. I honestly spent a fair bit of time here thinking I should just buy a new AMP. Then I realised that the speaker wiring went from both sides of the car. I would have to rip out both amps, find one that fits under the seat, then run new speaker cabling to all the speakers. Do-able if you REALLY want a new amp, but all online were saying these McIntosh ones, that are made by Clarion are actually pretty good. And it was going to be costly setting that up. What if I couldn't find one that would fit under the seat properly? I went with Plan B: Plan B: Cut off the 20 pin leads attached to the HU. Before doing so, I photographed and wrote down which lead/wire does what. Black lead (drivers seat) SUB: green-, blue+ Rear Right: purple-, pink+ Rear Left: red-, yellow+ Grey lead (passengers seat) Centre: brown-, grey+ Front right: green-, orange+ Front left: black-, white+ Both leads have a light blue which is going to "amp switch on" and also both have a wire going to "ground" The outer sheathing on both the leads is going to an earth point as well. So, here's where you have some options. You HAVE to do some soldering/connecting no matter what. Option 1: If you're like me and have a bunch of RCA leads lying around. Find 5 and cut the ends off giving yourself about 100mm of cord. You can strip the sheathing and solder positive to positive and negative to negative. The wiring is tiny. Requires a good eye and a fine point soldering iron. Option 2: Buy a set of 5 new RCA plugs. The solder on ones are best for these tiny wires. The "push on" RCA plugs are for larger gauge. I went with the latter and bought some new RCA plugs. Only $5 each at Jaycar. If you want to get some online, you can get them as cheap as 50c each, if you're prepared to wait for them to arrive. So, with your 20 pin leads, gently strip the rubber outing coating, you'll find a bunch of protective wire sheathing. I stripped each one back about 100mm. I started with the Grey 20 pin lead. You will now find 3 sets of wires inside. GENTLY strip back the plastic coating of one and you'll find the wires you want. The first one I happened to strip back was the white and black wires. I knew this was a left speaker so used a white RCA plug. Cut a piece of heat shrink about 60mm long. (This gives you 40mm of wire to play with at the end) Then put the RCA cover over the heat shrink. Then GENTLY strip the coloured sheathing to expose the wire core. Take off about 20mm. Hit number 3: * You MUST be careful stripping them. They are VERY small wires and will break off super easy. Solder the positive wire. In this case the white to the tip of the RCA. This is the male tip. Solder the negative, in this case black wire, through the little hole on the outer part of the RCA plug. It goes without saying that the wiring/soldering cant touch each other. I'm not going to call this an "easy job". It requires a bit of steadiness and some soldering practice will do you good. Having said that, I'm no expert, and I can do yeah.. Once soldered, push the heat shrink as far to the solder/RCA end as it will go. You want it far enough that when you press the little claws down, it will be across the heat shrink, not across the wires themselves. As I said, they are delicate. Heat that first 20mm or so of the heat shrink. Then clamp the claws down. Then screw the RCA plug up together. Then heat up the rest of the heat shrink (other 40mm of it). You might find it easier to use a vice (gently) or a proper soldering holder. The RCA metal will heat up REAL QUICK. As you can see, my soldering was real average on this one, but you get the idea. And my soldering got better as I went. Continue this process until you've done all the RCA's needed. (5). Note: if you want the centre speaker to work, wire it in to one of the front speaker ones. So you'll have 4 wires going into one of the RCAs. two positives and tow negatives. You just cant get it to work independently. The HU only allows for 4.1, not 5.1 audio. I didn't bother and it just sits there un-used now. I then took the two "amp switch on" wires and soldered them together. These two wires then solder to the Chinese loom "amp switch on". Remember all that silver sheathing we first came across?. I gave it a cut, twisted it up and stuck it into a lego brick each. If you have some straight crimping connectors, go for it. I then got a length of left over wire out of my garage. Connected that to a hoop connector. The other end of it, stuck into the lego brick too. This is sending that sheathing wire to an earth. Attach it wherever you can get a reasonable earth. I attached it to the side of the HU with the screw of the install bracket. You'll end up with something like this: Each of those RCAs I bought will now connect to the Chinese ones of the HU. Remember, Black amp lead was rear and sub. Grey lead was front. I made white left and red right. Done. WE HAVE SOUND..MAGIC!! Keep in mind, this all amplifier stuff took me about 3 days. 2 days researching and 1 day soldering/installing. Hint number 4: * After all this, I discovered my interior lights weren't going? weird...did I trigger something? Or was it cause I left the doors open for hours? I don't know.. The interior lights didn't go. The puddle lights in the doors didn't go, and the keyless entry/hand sensor on the door didn't go. If this happens to you. Its the fuse. It is by the drivers knee. A little plastic cover pulls open revealing the fuses. Its marked "backup". Is number 14 fuse and is a micro 10amp. When replacing it, make sure the doors are closed, or get someone to push the door button in (rubber button that the door hits and turns off the interior lights). If you don't, the circuit is still trying to be active while you put the fuse in and will probably keep blowing. The circuit needs to be off while you replace it. Moving on..install the OBD harness into the new HU. The other end goes onto the cars OBD plug. You will find it just above the accelerator pedal. You need to remove a couple of the plastic covers up under the footwell and run the wiring up under the dash to the plug. After that, its all good. Plug and play. Next set-up....USB leads. The Chinese H.U. comes with 2 USB leads. Female leads like this. Now, the leads are quite long. If you felt so inclined, you could have them stick out the dash somewhere, or the footwell and just plug stuff in as you want. That works. I plugged my USB stick (has all my music on it) into the lead and the H.U picks it up fine. This however, will NOT make the stock USB point in the centre console go. The McIntosh uses an old school CD changer style plug like this: (told you it was 90's tech right?) So, an hour of searching online, I find that this plug is called IP-BUS lead. Finding a female socket for this is REAL hard. When you do find a female end, its only an extension lead and has the male version on the other end. No way IP-BUS is going to match up to a USB lead!. Option 2: What's at the other end of this lead? Pulling apart the centre console leads me to this one: Another hour searching around online, I discover this plug is called a AI-NET. This AI-NET plugs directly into the back of the USB input in the console. So, lets wrap our head around this...……….. Subaru designs a USB input, which has an AI-NET coming out the back of it. The AI-NET goes to an IP-BUS plug, which plugs into the H.U. WTF Subaru!... This is making the whole "stick the USB out the underside of the footwell" thing REALLY appealing about now isn't it? The only thing for it, is to replace the AI-NET--IP-BUS lead with something actually available this century. Online, I can find heaps of AI-NET stuff as its used by Alpine. The best is probably this one from Ali Express. (stuff in NZ is real expensive for this kind of thing) AI-NET to a male 3.5mm jack. This will in turn connect to a 3.5mm female to USB male. SWEET!!. I haven't ordered these just yet. But that will work a treat. AND retain the stock USB port for the car, which I like. As you noticed, there is a second USB socket on the CUSP H.U. This would be ideal for the 3.5mm jack (next to the USB in the console). What's behind the 3.5mm jack?. A seriously un-necessary 6 pin automotive plug: At the other end is an even more un-necessary 24 pin plug!!! I haven't come up with a solution for this yet...its probably going to involve cutting off the 24pin plug and soldering the wires up to a custom USB male port. I'll see how that goes, but its not going to bother me too much not using it at this point. Next issue. The reverse camera. Here's the plug for the camera which normally goes into the back of the McIntosh. And, here's what the H.U gives me to insert it into... Yup....An RCA lead that's designed for an aftermarket camera. NOT the stock camera. ("plug and play" they said...) It comes with 2 RCAs so you can hook up 2 cameras. The second one is supposed to be a front mount camera for the bumper OR a side mount camera for assisting with parallel parking. I guess you could hook up a Go-Pro to it, BUT there's actually another set of RCA's again which you could attach a Go-PRO/playstation/DVD player for the kids. I've been doing some more research online but cant seem to quite work it out. The plug has 5 wires. My guess is: 1 for power, which (should be around 6 volt) which would connect to the purple "camera power" wire on the Chinese harness. 1 for earth. 2 for the signal to camera which would connect to the yellow RCA here. 1 for the "I'm in reverse" activation wire. This one isn't needed, as the H.U automatically switches to camera mode already when I chuck it into reverse. It just shows no signal at the moment. My first guess is: White/Light blue is the power. But it doesn't show 6 volt? I actually cant find 6 volts in any of them... Light blue/yellow and Light blue orange are the signal to go to the RCA. Black is earth. Leaving the Grey one not needed. But I'm not getting a signal....need more work on this one. The next issue was the very obvious fact that the dash fascia is actually for a left hand drive. After a fair bit of shaping and filing, the right hand side (by the gauges) fits pretty good. There's a small triangle hole, but isn't really bothering me. I can live with that. On the passenger side is a very obvious gap, and the last lug (top left corner) doesn't connect into the body, as its not long enough. To get around this, I'm thinking I will take my good fascia. (Right hand drive version) down to the plastic welders. Get them to cut both fascia's and weld the corner vent area of my good one onto the Chinese one. This will of course make the weld stand out. I'll get around this by either painting or vinyl wrapping the whole fascia. Option 2: Get an acquaintance of mine who owns a 3D printing company to make up a whole new fascia that the CUSP will screw up to. It would be the first available RHD version for these android units. Not sure on the cost of this yet.
  8. Hey guys, Just wondering if anyone can help before I hit up an auto sparkie. The climate control screen in my BP5 Spec B legacy has stopped working, the climate control still works perfectly fine, its just the screen that has gone. The Macintosh system still works fine too. Just wondering if anyone has experienced this and can help me fix it. Cheers!
  9. Hi all, first time poster, long time lurker. So I have this '02 Blitzen wagon that I've already spent waay too much money on, so this is the latest drama. When driving the radio will cut out randomly (turn off and straight back on), this can happen a few times before the headlights/interior lights etc all start to flicker a bit, followed by the whole cars power going out for between 1 to 3 seconds, before all comes back on and she continues on no prob, until the process starts again. I've already spent too much at the auto electricians replacing the ignition switch and generally waste of time fault finding. I'm thinking it's either the radio feeding back and overloading the system, or the relatively recently installed AVS alarm/immobiliser is cutting in randomly. Anyone had a similar issue that they got to the bottom of?? Any insight is much appreciated!
  10. Hi there. Anyone in Dunedin have a spare spigot bearing in Dunedin. Preferably needed ASAP otherwise I'll go to a shop in the morning. Thanks, UPDATE: I GOT ONE!!
  11. Hi, Legacy 2005 BPE Can you please help me identify this part on the suspension of my Legacy? Is it the Sway bar bush? Can I replace this myself? Thanks all, Donald, Queenstown New Zealand
  12. So, it's my birthday tomorrow, and I want to go drag racing! I'm heading to Meremere Dragway with the family in the Legacy. I'd like to take it down the track a few have some fun with the family, and get a starting performance base before the fixes and modifications start. Will I need a helmet? Will I have to prep the car to pass a safety inspection there? Being an automatic, what RPM should I launch with the foot brake, and at what RPM should I be shifting? Also, is anyone else going? Do you want to meet up? Thanks! Greg
  13. so recently purchased a 2001 legacy ej20 e-tune 5spd manual and everything was running fine until a couple days ago. 1- check engine light has been coming on then turning off at random times mainly when idling for longer period of time . 2- so car drives fine and normal with no problem until you want to hit accelerator and take it up to around 4k rpm then it starts to shake and just refuses to climb any further until you change up a gear then does the same thing until your in 5th. once in 5th if you just slowly increase the acceleration then it will pick up speed and cruise fine at 150khms (not actual cruising speed I follow the rules ha sometimes) . no funny sounds no leaks I can see and no other problems. just scaring me bit as to hoping its nothing major. I'm thinking maybe fuel related and not turbo related but would love some input. located in Otago and am keen to find good reliable Subaru techs for future mods if anyone has some recommendations .
  14. Hi, I am in the progress of fitting cruise control to my 2010 Subaru legacy I’m after a 4 pin brake light switch that I seem to find easily everywhere online. But unfortunately I am having a very hard time finding the 4 pin connector that plugs into it. Is there any chance anyone would be able to tell me what the part number would be or where to find it? I had a chat to someone from PartSouq and they were unable to help me without a part no.. Also, would anyone be able to give me info as that which ECU pins I need for wiring the 2 required wires to it? This is what I need: 1. Brake light switch (PN: 83370AA001) easy to find – or the alternative: 2. 4 pin male connector to go into the above (no idea where to find) – Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  15. Hi all, I've been collecting parts for a single turbo conversion I was going to do to my 98 bg5 GTB ej206 manual. (yeah weird, and wrong CR as it runs manual ecu, yet has reliably run for the two years I've owned it) but then I scored an 02 rev d bh5 yesterday with a blown primary. So now it seems sensible to put all single turbo stuff into the rev d as my bg5 has nothing wrong with it (yet). I understand it's a bit of a different process, but I think I have most of what I'll need. I have a td06 20g, full length tuned headers (slip joint type), 3" down pipe, fmic setup, greddy emange ultimate piggy back ecu (just gonna buy a harness, CBF with repin or splice), tial 44mm external wastegate, blitz bov. I also have half a WRX in parts and a spare motor to scavenge parts from. So what I want to know at this point is if anyone has used the factory ecu in the rev d to go single? I believe they are tunable? And other than the wiring and different intake, is there a hell of a lot of difference in the actual physical process of swapping everything over? I read the single turbo thread, am I able to largely follow that? Or is it a completely different game?
  16. Hey Guys, I have been having a mess around with our Legacy GTB trying to get a few pops and crackles on decel. I'll start with the car. We have a 2003 Legacy GTB with an EJ20Y, so it has the bigger TD04 Turbo, car has a gutted cat in the downpipe but the secondary cat is till in tact but i think its on its way out, the whole bottom of the cat is covered in white stuff and you can get a bit of an eggy smell sometimes, so that could be an issue. I have been playing around with the "Base Timing B" maps as this is the map most people adjust to get pops and crackles. I have adjusted between 2000rpm and 5000rpm to -12 degrees but the car still won't pop and crackle, is this because of the secondary cat or another reason? I would have thought even with the secondary cat you would still be able to hear it try to pop. The WRX's and STI's seem to have an Overrun table which our legacy doesn't have, also tables called "base timing b (in gear)" A few questions come to mind. 1. When does the car actually use "Base timing b" and "Base timing a", 2. Do i need to add fuel at the points where the timing is retarded. 3. Does the Legacy cut fuel on decel? 4. Why wont you pop If anyone has any info at all that would be great, Cheers
  17. Hi Subagurus Inspired by Super Guitar Guy and Super Stereo Installer I thought I'd share some information in appreciation of the super time and work these guys and everyone else generously shares here, thank you. I've decided to do the double DIN and install one of the new Kenwood DNX9180DABS HU with Navi and add the dashcam. Currently collecting my bits, plans, work in progress. I figure if I can get all that kit running my Outback will be more capable than a new one, (no dashcam!) and a hell of a lot cheaper! Plan is to use the existing amp. I think they feed 80W (RMS?) per channel but that's not confirmed. Still knowing how they perform I am happy enough with the McIntosh amp and speakers. In the mean time I wanted to swap the Japanese banded PF-4062l head unit with an (ex NZ GT Legacy) PF-2551l for the standard NZ bands. Thought must be too easy! Wrong! Swapping the units, which have the same plugs (not necessarily the same wires though!) proved to make both the McIntosh display and the upper Nav screen (Still in Japanese) just flash and will not work.... Quickly turn off.... After much thought and studying most of the Internet and with a little help from Jeremy I figured that the 4062 will have, being a later unit, a lot of stuff that integrates with the Jap Nav gear, and that it all connects through the 20 pin J800 socket that has a heap of wires that I've not traced, but they connect to the Bus, what ever smarts are therein, no doubt the intermediate SWC smarts (not found how Subaru interface the control with the HU, but probably academic) and the Nav and who knows what else. The more common Subaru 20 pin plug J901 just has the power lights and antenna amp power - all essential to run the Head Unit. So....Legacy PF-2551l will run fine in a JDM Outback as an interim radio for me. Woot. (without steering wheel controls connected) when one simply does not plug in the back J800 plug - for anyone wanting to try that. Will keep me going for now. For the planned Double Din install I've bought a "junk" PF-4062l from Croooober for its sockets, especially the 20pin DIN wired female socket. My original thought was to use all the sockets as that would smooth the interconnection, now that expectation I've now pretty much shown to probably be wrong so arguably it was an expensive 20pin DIN, but then seems they're not otherwise available at any price.... Part of the cost! For anyone wanting to also do this conversion I figure a junked EF-1208l amp could also be used as a 20pin DIN socket part source for the HU end to run to the Mac amp being used in the car. That would have been cheaper for me, but committed now. There's currently a cheap one going to the first taker.... I bought some RCA leads which I'll splice into the newly imported DIN plug lead at HU end which I figure will be robust enough. Also will need to feed the amp on (I assume) with the +12V "Power on" to turn the amp on. Plan to find the Original Subaru GPS existing device and swap it with the new Kenwood one. Seems no point installing the digital antenna on the windscreen as I think (open to correction) there is no digital audio around to connect to in New Zealand, especially the Wellington region. Yet to resolve issues anticipated. The McIntosh kitted 'rus feature 4 speakers in each front door. The Kenwood has some rel sophisticated frequency smarts for feeding different speakers different frequencies, particularly to protect tweeters. But they don't go so far as 4 different speakers per front channel with intermediate single feeding amp channels(!). I don't know but expect there is a crossover network in each front door (anyone know?) which'll do the frequency distribution just fine. So that leaves me with the expected question of what cut off frequency to feed the sub woofer, and whether I trim any base of the four door channels. It might all just work without fiddling with any EQ. Not yet figured out what to do with the Nav unit, expect the Backing CAM works and is appreciated, all be it at a liney resolution. Be nice to have a 720p front and rear cameras with the front one thru a replacement 720p screen mounted between the vents, and the higher defn rear cam thru the Kenwood. Not figured that bit out. Comments welcomed.
  18. Hi all, Vehicle is a 4th gen 2005 legacy sedan pre facelift. My brake light has stopped working on my rear left upper bulb. I switched out the bulb on the other side to test but no cigar. To me this indicates the wiring must contain the cause BUT the other lights on the same loom are working (lower brake light bulb, reverse bulb and indicator bulb). Has anyone come across this before? Any advice appreciated, thanks!
  19. Hi all, need a bit of help with this one please. I have a 2003 NZ new GTB, EJ20X, all stock. I had a new engine installed at 28200km as apparently a con threw and punched a hole in the side of the block, oil and water everywhere. Got all the required stuff (cambelt, pump, plugs) done at the same time. I'm having an issue that started before the engine was replaced, where I get a sort of sputtering and "wet farting" on take off. Total loss of power and requires throttle off then back to stop it. It's gotten to the point now where it's almost dangerous to drive and I just can't rely on it to accelerate as it should. I've put more $ into this than I had planned and while it needs to be resolved, I don't really want to keep "investing". I like the car, love it almost but enough is enough perhaps. Any one have any ideas, experience with this and simple non expensive fixes? I've read maybe MAF sensor, fuel pump, so many things... car does not show any error codes. I'm running BTSSM on a tablet so can log stuff but don't know enough to read the logs and decipher any issues. Any help out there? Cheers in advance
  20. @Andy_Mac - made a new thread, as to not thread jack that Forester thread. Just checked my car - it does have a hollow shaft, where the lockout cable comes up. Also looking at partsouq, my S401 has exactly the same shifter rod to a 2001 GDB V7 Impreza STI (Dad's old STI) - 35011. They used that rod up until the end of 07, when the GD chassis ended. The Raceseng one says it's for a 04-17 STI (Handle and Base). Being USDM, they only got the STI in 2004, which I believe is the V9? So still a GD chassis, and should be the same as what I have (no factory VIN available to confirm this). So going off partsouq - I should have a Impreza STI shifter etc, and should be sweet with Raceseng's one? I was gonna ask @mtbtimr if he would make me one up, for a price of course. Would happily pay a premium for one from him, over an internet bought one.
  21. Right so, it seems my turbo has gone. Just had an oil change like last week, but apparently it's toast. Not been driven hard at all. 2nd one now. Anyone got a spare VF38 kicking around? Waiting in agonised apprehension for a price from mechanic...
  22. I need some advice on whether it would be okay and whether my engine will work properly if I was to install a BOV. Would I need a BOV with an adjustable vent to atmosphere and recirculation? Would I need to have it on 50:50? What BOV would be recommended? Cheers. Also I own a 2001 Twin turbo Subaru legacy automatic.
  23. Hi Guys, So in a mission to find a STI style front lip for my 06 legacy wagon i ended up being forced to buy 5 (Minimum order qty) - the surplus 4 sold in 30 hours so i have decided to to a group buy as i have found a very good supplier who has well priced stuff for every car under the sun. The problem is there seems to be a lot of USDM specific parts around that wont fit us here in NZ but i have spend a lot of time and found some good NZ options. My Plan if anyone is keen is as below :- PM, email me ( or text me (021 1310363) a picture and details of your car or another car off trademe with your EXACT same bumper . I will send you the options for your car some will have 1 Poly urethane option some will have up to 3 PU and 1-2 Carbon Fibre options. You let me know which one you like. I will get pricing from supplier cost up the freight,Duty and GST and quote you a fair price. If we agree on a part you like and a fair price i will setup a trademe auction for $50 buy now so you have peace of mind that im not just going to keep you $50 and not deliver. I will use the $50 as a deposit and i will pay up front for all the parts with my own money.Ill then do all importing donkey work, shipping, customs clearance, duty and gst payment etc. We will have to wait 25-32 days for goods to get into NZ and get through customs. When all parts arrive here i will send pictures of your specific goods and myself to prove parts are physically here and are undamaged (if any goods are not supplied right or broken/damaged i will refund $50 deposit and take up the issue with supplier myself) Once balance of payment is received i will dispatch goods accordingly or you are welcome to come to my home (east auckland) and collect. I am prepared to take all the financial risk and will not be looking to make a huge profit here - enough to cover the cost and a small margin for my time and finance - any goods that are not good quality or turn up damaged i will take that exposure and return your $50/deposit. Please feel free to find picture of lips or parts you like and i will try an find them at a reasonable price - my day to day job is procurement and logistics so hunting Asia and Europe for clients is an 8-9 hour a day thing for me so please send through a pic of what you would ideally like. Hope we can get some stuff in at good prices and get some Clubsub members cars looking dope!! Cheers Kenian
  24. Found something broken, converted to parallel until I can replace said part (secondary bypass valve thing) and thought I\'d put this up, the internet makes it seem like such a hard job - it isn\'t. Changing oil takes longer. First off - this is the *Free* way to do this, takes you 20 minutes, and is 100% reversible in the same amount of time (you don\'t even need to cut any hoses, nothing). It will not be as good as a dedicated setup (with parallel headers etc) and not as good again as a single setup - however there\'s a lot to be said for cost. All this is doing is short-cutting the TT system to lock it into the same arrangement as is normal above 4500, so no you will do the car no damage and have nothing to lose. Secondly - if I\'ve gotten things wrong, please tell me. The reason I wrote this up is when googling for the diagram smurff put up years ago (which is down the bottom) I just found link after link of people either asking how to do it, know-it-alls going on about "I think it\'d be terrible, just convert to single turbo" without trying it, or people thinking it was a horrendous job of re-wiring, replumbing and confusion. You can make up your own mind about how it drives, some love it, some think it\'s a pig - I put some examples at the end of how mine drives. So first thing: Loosen off the heat shield on the secondary turbo. You don\'t need to remove it outright - just take off the two bolts on top and the one down close to the chassis rail. There\'s a bastard of one tucked underneath, but once you remove those 3 you can tilt it right back. Yay now you have access to the exhaust valve actuator rod - notice how it\'s threaded? Slightly off topic you can noticably change the behavior of the car by lengthening and shortening this rod, bit of trial and error but you can improve VOD and secondary spool a bit, bit of a balancing act. ANYWAY - unscrew this right out. It\'s a reverse thread, and the locking nuts can get pretty stuck on there too. Keep winding until the little hexagonal rod falls off, or hopefully you grabbed it before it fell and got stuck in the steering rack. Now it\'s pretty tight, but try and wire the bottom half of the rod down, basically rod down = valve open. It holds itself down anyway but may as well keep it there. IF you were doing this permanently, you would either remove the valve, or make a new up-pipe. The piping guide at the bottom suggests tricking the car into permanently opening it with pressure - I just took the short cut. Now put the heat shield back on. There is a vacuum hose going to this valve - this is the one which opens and closes the secondary turbo off from the intercooler outlet. It\'s held closed by vacuum... So pull the hose off, its spring loaded to stick open. Done. In theory you now have the TT system stuck open. (Oh yeah, block the hose off) Last thing - you need to block the secondary dump valve OR tee it into your other BOV, it\'s the relief valve the TT system uses to pre-spool the secondary (the hose which runs from secondary turbo, to a plastic arm, then a black thing which is just a BOV but not used as one... sort of). Mine has a massive bolt in the hose (cause I\'m redneck bro) and this is temporary, what you are MEANT to do is to tee it into the main BOV line. I would have, but this thing being snapped is the reason I did this in the first place so uh.. yeah. In theory you can now go for a drive, and then watch the check engine light come on after the first few times you floor it. Reason being - the ECU in these things has a MAP sensor with the sole job of watching for boost to be on just primary, then on both to make sure the TT system is functioning correctly. One side of it goes after the intercooler valve and is watching primary boost, the other is in the plastic arm to the secondary relief valve thing. Luckily here\'s something Subaru prepared earlier - the hose which goes to the TOP of the exhaust valve actuator conveniently has nothing coming through it until about 4 grand when it starts to get boost through it. You unplug this - and instead join it to the hose going to the map sensor. Pro photo mid-work below - if you\'ve replaced your hoses with pretty ones, the hose you use is the back one of the two running up the firewall. Blank off the hose which ran from the plastic arm bit, it has no use now. The hose to the top of the ECV is number 8, and the one to the MAP sensor is number 22. FYI the one to the bottom of the ECV gets vacuum only as a way of being able to half-open the valve. Now that is literally it - there is no messing around with wiring, if you want to undo this (and to be honest it\'s quite likely you will) you just reverse what has been done. Just don\'t burn your hands. So - how does it drive - whats the benefits and why would you do this? I don\'t know if my car is a prime example but here\'s what I have found anyway - it\'s laggy and the long legs the legacy got makes things worse. Best comparison I can give is it\'s similar to an 1.8L GSR with a TD05, pretty doughy down low but worth it once it wakes up. Basically feels n/a below 3500. 5th gear @ 3k (100kph ish) gets you about 0.5-0.6 bar boost and a corresponding lack of speed. Dropping to fourth at the same speed (about 4 grand?) it will hit about 1 bar in around a second - in comparison with it TT it would spool the primary, hit VOD in an instant and then start to spool. From a standing start or dropping back a gear on the move it (parallel) canes the TT (sequential) setup as it just wakes both up, however say goodbye to getting a kick from booting it in second on a roll like you used to. I haven\'t driven something with one of the z/s sequential controllers on - so can\'t comment on how it compares to that. The sound is drastically changed - it has a hint of the normal burble at idle but to be fair it sounds like ass until it starts to get some boost into it. Not much different to tuned length headers or a non turbo suby I guess - once it does get some boost on board I love it, sounds like nothing else. IF I was to carry on with this I\'d be looking to get some proper headers and downpipes for it and try to improve the spool up, mine still has factory downpipes including primary cat which won\'t be helping matters. You *could* look to use a V5/6 ecu as per a normal single conversion - and that\'d make sense to do - but isn\'t quite so reversable and involves spending $$ (I understand there is a difference in CR 8.5 / 9.0 between STi and B4?). If you could get the spool up improved a bit it\'d be a pretty sweet way to do things. I have seen it mentioned that some remove (and block off) the joiner pipe which connects left and right banks - the problem there is that you lose boost control to the 2ndry turbo - at the moment when the single WG on the primary vents, it\'s dumping gas from the whole manifold hence why it works just fine. I get absolutely 0 spiking or flickering on boost with the way things are now. In terms of outright speed - pass? 0-100 times are a bit hard to compare, 0-400m won\'t happen with this car - I timed it at under 3.5 sec 80-120k so it\'s got pace enough for me at least. To do this to a BG/BD it is effectively the same - not sure if the hoses are numbered the same, but where they run to and from is. I\'ve tried and tried to get it to throw a CEL at me but so far so good, things seem happy (touch wood). Here\'s the diagrams as well - only thing I do different is not doing anything with the ECV hoses. Writing this post up took me 3 times as long but I know some find a diagram way way harder to follow than just a photo. Anyway - have fun
  25. Hey guys, I have a 1999 Legacy Rev B that has the auto EJ206 in it which I will be removing and manually converting (car is being painted by a friend to showcase to employers). I also plan to have something done with the engine at the same, but I'm not too sure on the route to take. I would like the end result to be single turbo with pretty much standard performance as it will be my daily driver, but I can't decide on either rebuilding the current engine or swapping in an engine from a Forester. If I were to get a Forester engine I would give it a refresh but not to headgaskets. I am leaning more towards keeping the current engine but it's done 230k and I'm not sure about the open deck design. Will it be easier to single turbo convert with a Forester engine or will it be easier to keep the current engine? Cheers guys!