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Found 35 results

  1. Hey Guys, I have been having a mess around with our Legacy GTB trying to get a few pops and crackles on decel. I'll start with the car. We have a 2003 Legacy GTB with an EJ20Y, so it has the bigger TD04 Turbo, car has a gutted cat in the downpipe but the secondary cat is till in tact but i think its on its way out, the whole bottom of the cat is covered in white stuff and you can get a bit of an eggy smell sometimes, so that could be an issue. I have been playing around with the "Base Timing B" maps as this is the map most people adjust to get pops and crackles. I have adjusted between 2000rpm and 5000rpm to -12 degrees but the car still won't pop and crackle, is this because of the secondary cat or another reason? I would have thought even with the secondary cat you would still be able to hear it try to pop. The WRX's and STI's seem to have an Overrun table which our legacy doesn't have, also tables called "base timing b (in gear)" A few questions come to mind. 1. When does the car actually use "Base timing b" and "Base timing a", 2. Do i need to add fuel at the points where the timing is retarded. 3. Does the Legacy cut fuel on decel? 4. Why wont you pop If anyone has any info at all that would be great, Cheers
  2. Car - 2006 Subaru Legacy 3.0R-B WAGON with McIntosh factory 12 speaker system. So I have the standard issue that the factory McIntosh sub has split (I got it repaired at Axent Audio in Auckland but within a few weeks it had split in another place) so I am keen to replace it. I have fitted a blue-tooth kit to the factory McIntosh head unit as I quite like the factory set up, and basically couldn't justify the massive effort and price in changing out the head unit with it being interconnected with the dual zone climate a/c unit. I have found a replacement Sub which is a KENWOOD EXCELON KFC-XW800F SHALLOW-MOUNT 8″ 4-OHM SUBWOOFER from Driving Sound on Dominion Road - kenwood-excelon-kfc-xw800f-shallow-mount-8-4-ohm-subwoofer. The McIntosh is 4 ohm and so is the Kenwood unit I have found. I like my music but wouldn't say I particularly crank it all that much, thus I am not keen to go and "start again" with the whole system in order to get some that is next level. I want to know if the Kenwood unit will work as a straight replacement and will work with the factory amp (under passenger seat) as I have read some forums which make me think it won't, but the people at Driving Sound seem to think it will. The next issue is fitting it into the back right corner of my wagon, as although the unit isn't any deeper it is slightly wider overall (behind the front of the sub) so the bracket space needs to be increased. I could pay another $200 bucks and get box for it but then I loose some boot space the factory look which is quite important to me. As I am new to Auckland, I wondered if there is an automotive fabricator/chippie or someone else handy who I should/could get to do it. I just need some assistance in carving out some more space in that back right corner and creating a slot for the new sub. I am happy to pay the money to get it done properly as opposed to stuffing it up myself! A quick Google landed me on "Stu's Trim and Sound in Manukau. I am sure they could do it easily enough - any other suggestions or comments on the above in terms of things I have overlooked?! cheers. Mark
  3. Hi Subagurus Inspired by Super Guitar Guy and Super Stereo Installer I thought I'd share some information in appreciation of the super time and work these guys and everyone else generously shares here, thank you. I've decided to do the double DIN and install one of the new Kenwood DNX9180DABS HU with Navi and add the dashcam. Currently collecting my bits, plans, work in progress. I figure if I can get all that kit running my Outback will be more capable than a new one, (no dashcam!) and a hell of a lot cheaper! Plan is to use the existing amp. I think they feed 80W (RMS?) per channel but that's not confirmed. Still knowing how they perform I am happy enough with the McIntosh amp and speakers. In the mean time I wanted to swap the Japanese banded PF-4062l head unit with an (ex NZ GT Legacy) PF-2551l for the standard NZ bands. Thought must be too easy! Wrong! Swapping the units, which have the same plugs (not necessarily the same wires though!) proved to make both the McIntosh display and the upper Nav screen (Still in Japanese) just flash and will not work.... Quickly turn off.... After much thought and studying most of the Internet and with a little help from Jeremy I figured that the 4062 will have, being a later unit, a lot of stuff that integrates with the Jap Nav gear, and that it all connects through the 20 pin J800 socket that has a heap of wires that I've not traced, but they connect to the Bus, what ever smarts are therein, no doubt the intermediate SWC smarts (not found how Subaru interface the control with the HU, but probably academic) and the Nav and who knows what else. The more common Subaru 20 pin plug J901 just has the power lights and antenna amp power - all essential to run the Head Unit. So....Legacy PF-2551l will run fine in a JDM Outback as an interim radio for me. Woot. (without steering wheel controls connected) when one simply does not plug in the back J800 plug - for anyone wanting to try that. Will keep me going for now. For the planned Double Din install I've bought a "junk" PF-4062l from Croooober for its sockets, especially the 20pin DIN wired female socket. My original thought was to use all the sockets as that would smooth the interconnection, now that expectation I've now pretty much shown to probably be wrong so arguably it was an expensive 20pin DIN, but then seems they're not otherwise available at any price.... Part of the cost! For anyone wanting to also do this conversion I figure a junked EF-1208l amp could also be used as a 20pin DIN socket part source for the HU end to run to the Mac amp being used in the car. That would have been cheaper for me, but committed now. There's currently a cheap one going to the first taker.... I bought some RCA leads which I'll splice into the newly imported DIN plug lead at HU end which I figure will be robust enough. Also will need to feed the amp on (I assume) with the +12V "Power on" to turn the amp on. Plan to find the Original Subaru GPS existing device and swap it with the new Kenwood one. Seems no point installing the digital antenna on the windscreen as I think (open to correction) there is no digital audio around to connect to in New Zealand, especially the Wellington region. Yet to resolve issues anticipated. The McIntosh kitted 'rus feature 4 speakers in each front door. The Kenwood has some rel sophisticated frequency smarts for feeding different speakers different frequencies, particularly to protect tweeters. But they don't go so far as 4 different speakers per front channel with intermediate single feeding amp channels(!). I don't know but expect there is a crossover network in each front door (anyone know?) which'll do the frequency distribution just fine. So that leaves me with the expected question of what cut off frequency to feed the sub woofer, and whether I trim any base of the four door channels. It might all just work without fiddling with any EQ. Not yet figured out what to do with the Nav unit, expect the Backing CAM works and is appreciated, all be it at a liney resolution. Be nice to have a 720p front and rear cameras with the front one thru a replacement 720p screen mounted between the vents, and the higher defn rear cam thru the Kenwood. Not figured that bit out. Comments welcomed.
  4. Hi all, Vehicle is a 4th gen 2005 legacy sedan pre facelift. My brake light has stopped working on my rear left upper bulb. I switched out the bulb on the other side to test but no cigar. To me this indicates the wiring must contain the cause BUT the other lights on the same loom are working (lower brake light bulb, reverse bulb and indicator bulb). Has anyone come across this before? Any advice appreciated, thanks!
  5. Hi all, need a bit of help with this one please. I have a 2003 NZ new GTB, EJ20X, all stock. I had a new engine installed at 28200km as apparently a con threw and punched a hole in the side of the block, oil and water everywhere. Got all the required stuff (cambelt, pump, plugs) done at the same time. I'm having an issue that started before the engine was replaced, where I get a sort of sputtering and "wet farting" on take off. Total loss of power and requires throttle off then back to stop it. It's gotten to the point now where it's almost dangerous to drive and I just can't rely on it to accelerate as it should. I've put more $ into this than I had planned and while it needs to be resolved, I don't really want to keep "investing". I like the car, love it almost but enough is enough perhaps. Any one have any ideas, experience with this and simple non expensive fixes? I've read maybe MAF sensor, fuel pump, so many things... car does not show any error codes. I'm running BTSSM on a tablet so can log stuff but don't know enough to read the logs and decipher any issues. Any help out there? Cheers in advance
  6. @Andy_Mac - made a new thread, as to not thread jack that Forester thread. Just checked my car - it does have a hollow shaft, where the lockout cable comes up. Also looking at partsouq, my S401 has exactly the same shifter rod to a 2001 GDB V7 Impreza STI (Dad's old STI) - 35011. They used that rod up until the end of 07, when the GD chassis ended. The Raceseng one says it's for a 04-17 STI (Handle and Base). Being USDM, they only got the STI in 2004, which I believe is the V9? So still a GD chassis, and should be the same as what I have (no factory VIN available to confirm this). So going off partsouq - I should have a Impreza STI shifter etc, and should be sweet with Raceseng's one? I was gonna ask @mtbtimr if he would make me one up, for a price of course. Would happily pay a premium for one from him, over an internet bought one.
  7. Right so, it seems my turbo has gone. Just had an oil change like last week, but apparently it's toast. Not been driven hard at all. 2nd one now. Anyone got a spare VF38 kicking around? Waiting in agonised apprehension for a price from mechanic...
  8. I need some advice on whether it would be okay and whether my engine will work properly if I was to install a BOV. Would I need a BOV with an adjustable vent to atmosphere and recirculation? Would I need to have it on 50:50? What BOV would be recommended? Cheers. Also I own a 2001 Twin turbo Subaru legacy automatic.
  9. Hi Guys, So in a mission to find a STI style front lip for my 06 legacy wagon i ended up being forced to buy 5 (Minimum order qty) - the surplus 4 sold in 30 hours so i have decided to to a group buy as i have found a very good supplier who has well priced stuff for every car under the sun. The problem is there seems to be a lot of USDM specific parts around that wont fit us here in NZ but i have spend a lot of time and found some good NZ options. My Plan if anyone is keen is as below :- PM, email me ( or text me (021 1310363) a picture and details of your car or another car off trademe with your EXACT same bumper . I will send you the options for your car some will have 1 Poly urethane option some will have up to 3 PU and 1-2 Carbon Fibre options. You let me know which one you like. I will get pricing from supplier cost up the freight,Duty and GST and quote you a fair price. If we agree on a part you like and a fair price i will setup a trademe auction for $50 buy now so you have peace of mind that im not just going to keep you $50 and not deliver. I will use the $50 as a deposit and i will pay up front for all the parts with my own money.Ill then do all importing donkey work, shipping, customs clearance, duty and gst payment etc. We will have to wait 25-32 days for goods to get into NZ and get through customs. When all parts arrive here i will send pictures of your specific goods and myself to prove parts are physically here and are undamaged (if any goods are not supplied right or broken/damaged i will refund $50 deposit and take up the issue with supplier myself) Once balance of payment is received i will dispatch goods accordingly or you are welcome to come to my home (east auckland) and collect. I am prepared to take all the financial risk and will not be looking to make a huge profit here - enough to cover the cost and a small margin for my time and finance - any goods that are not good quality or turn up damaged i will take that exposure and return your $50/deposit. Please feel free to find picture of lips or parts you like and i will try an find them at a reasonable price - my day to day job is procurement and logistics so hunting Asia and Europe for clients is an 8-9 hour a day thing for me so please send through a pic of what you would ideally like. Hope we can get some stuff in at good prices and get some Clubsub members cars looking dope!! Cheers Kenian
  10. Found something broken, converted to parallel until I can replace said part (secondary bypass valve thing) and thought I\'d put this up, the internet makes it seem like such a hard job - it isn\'t. Changing oil takes longer. First off - this is the *Free* way to do this, takes you 20 minutes, and is 100% reversible in the same amount of time (you don\'t even need to cut any hoses, nothing). It will not be as good as a dedicated setup (with parallel headers etc) and not as good again as a single setup - however there\'s a lot to be said for cost. All this is doing is short-cutting the TT system to lock it into the same arrangement as is normal above 4500, so no you will do the car no damage and have nothing to lose. Secondly - if I\'ve gotten things wrong, please tell me. The reason I wrote this up is when googling for the diagram smurff put up years ago (which is down the bottom) I just found link after link of people either asking how to do it, know-it-alls going on about "I think it\'d be terrible, just convert to single turbo" without trying it, or people thinking it was a horrendous job of re-wiring, replumbing and confusion. You can make up your own mind about how it drives, some love it, some think it\'s a pig - I put some examples at the end of how mine drives. So first thing: Loosen off the heat shield on the secondary turbo. You don\'t need to remove it outright - just take off the two bolts on top and the one down close to the chassis rail. There\'s a bastard of one tucked underneath, but once you remove those 3 you can tilt it right back. Yay now you have access to the exhaust valve actuator rod - notice how it\'s threaded? Slightly off topic you can noticably change the behavior of the car by lengthening and shortening this rod, bit of trial and error but you can improve VOD and secondary spool a bit, bit of a balancing act. ANYWAY - unscrew this right out. It\'s a reverse thread, and the locking nuts can get pretty stuck on there too. Keep winding until the little hexagonal rod falls off, or hopefully you grabbed it before it fell and got stuck in the steering rack. Now it\'s pretty tight, but try and wire the bottom half of the rod down, basically rod down = valve open. It holds itself down anyway but may as well keep it there. IF you were doing this permanently, you would either remove the valve, or make a new up-pipe. The piping guide at the bottom suggests tricking the car into permanently opening it with pressure - I just took the short cut. Now put the heat shield back on. There is a vacuum hose going to this valve - this is the one which opens and closes the secondary turbo off from the intercooler outlet. It\'s held closed by vacuum... So pull the hose off, its spring loaded to stick open. Done. In theory you now have the TT system stuck open. (Oh yeah, block the hose off) Last thing - you need to block the secondary dump valve OR tee it into your other BOV, it\'s the relief valve the TT system uses to pre-spool the secondary (the hose which runs from secondary turbo, to a plastic arm, then a black thing which is just a BOV but not used as one... sort of). Mine has a massive bolt in the hose (cause I\'m redneck bro) and this is temporary, what you are MEANT to do is to tee it into the main BOV line. I would have, but this thing being snapped is the reason I did this in the first place so uh.. yeah. In theory you can now go for a drive, and then watch the check engine light come on after the first few times you floor it. Reason being - the ECU in these things has a MAP sensor with the sole job of watching for boost to be on just primary, then on both to make sure the TT system is functioning correctly. One side of it goes after the intercooler valve and is watching primary boost, the other is in the plastic arm to the secondary relief valve thing. Luckily here\'s something Subaru prepared earlier - the hose which goes to the TOP of the exhaust valve actuator conveniently has nothing coming through it until about 4 grand when it starts to get boost through it. You unplug this - and instead join it to the hose going to the map sensor. Pro photo mid-work below - if you\'ve replaced your hoses with pretty ones, the hose you use is the back one of the two running up the firewall. Blank off the hose which ran from the plastic arm bit, it has no use now. The hose to the top of the ECV is number 8, and the one to the MAP sensor is number 22. FYI the one to the bottom of the ECV gets vacuum only as a way of being able to half-open the valve. Now that is literally it - there is no messing around with wiring, if you want to undo this (and to be honest it\'s quite likely you will) you just reverse what has been done. Just don\'t burn your hands. So - how does it drive - whats the benefits and why would you do this? I don\'t know if my car is a prime example but here\'s what I have found anyway - it\'s laggy and the long legs the legacy got makes things worse. Best comparison I can give is it\'s similar to an 1.8L GSR with a TD05, pretty doughy down low but worth it once it wakes up. Basically feels n/a below 3500. 5th gear @ 3k (100kph ish) gets you about 0.5-0.6 bar boost and a corresponding lack of speed. Dropping to fourth at the same speed (about 4 grand?) it will hit about 1 bar in around a second - in comparison with it TT it would spool the primary, hit VOD in an instant and then start to spool. From a standing start or dropping back a gear on the move it (parallel) canes the TT (sequential) setup as it just wakes both up, however say goodbye to getting a kick from booting it in second on a roll like you used to. I haven\'t driven something with one of the z/s sequential controllers on - so can\'t comment on how it compares to that. The sound is drastically changed - it has a hint of the normal burble at idle but to be fair it sounds like ass until it starts to get some boost into it. Not much different to tuned length headers or a non turbo suby I guess - once it does get some boost on board I love it, sounds like nothing else. IF I was to carry on with this I\'d be looking to get some proper headers and downpipes for it and try to improve the spool up, mine still has factory downpipes including primary cat which won\'t be helping matters. You *could* look to use a V5/6 ecu as per a normal single conversion - and that\'d make sense to do - but isn\'t quite so reversable and involves spending $$ (I understand there is a difference in CR 8.5 / 9.0 between STi and B4?). If you could get the spool up improved a bit it\'d be a pretty sweet way to do things. I have seen it mentioned that some remove (and block off) the joiner pipe which connects left and right banks - the problem there is that you lose boost control to the 2ndry turbo - at the moment when the single WG on the primary vents, it\'s dumping gas from the whole manifold hence why it works just fine. I get absolutely 0 spiking or flickering on boost with the way things are now. In terms of outright speed - pass? 0-100 times are a bit hard to compare, 0-400m won\'t happen with this car - I timed it at under 3.5 sec 80-120k so it\'s got pace enough for me at least. To do this to a BG/BD it is effectively the same - not sure if the hoses are numbered the same, but where they run to and from is. I\'ve tried and tried to get it to throw a CEL at me but so far so good, things seem happy (touch wood). Here\'s the diagrams as well - only thing I do different is not doing anything with the ECV hoses. Writing this post up took me 3 times as long but I know some find a diagram way way harder to follow than just a photo. Anyway - have fun
  11. Hey guys, I have a 1999 Legacy Rev B that has the auto EJ206 in it which I will be removing and manually converting (car is being painted by a friend to showcase to employers). I also plan to have something done with the engine at the same, but I'm not too sure on the route to take. I would like the end result to be single turbo with pretty much standard performance as it will be my daily driver, but I can't decide on either rebuilding the current engine or swapping in an engine from a Forester. If I were to get a Forester engine I would give it a refresh but not to headgaskets. I am leaning more towards keeping the current engine but it's done 230k and I'm not sure about the open deck design. Will it be easier to single turbo convert with a Forester engine or will it be easier to keep the current engine? Cheers guys!
  12. Hey Team, Have any of you had to replace an in tank fuel pump on a gen 4 3.0r Legacy? Looking around found that GOSS do a replacement pump for a good price, but different sources say to use one of two models (GE271 or GE272). Has anyone gone through this process? What brand did you use, who stocked it etc any info would be a great help. Cheers!
  13. Hi guys, My power steering pump is screeching quite badly on cold starts but seems to happen more likely on warm days. So when I start the car, it immediately makes a very loud screeching noise and goes away once I get the car moving a bit/give it a bit of gas. I thought it could be the pulley but recently it started to stop working as well after the cold start for about a second when turning the wheel. Will try and get a video, but I just tried to get some videos this morning but it decided to start up without making a noise or anything. Anyone had the same problem before? The real question I need answered is whether I need to replace the pump completely, or can it be rebuilt/repaired whatever. Car is 2007 Legacy BP5 turbo JDM. Thanks in advanced people!
  14. I have a BP5 JDM 3.0R-B, I was coming home back into Auckland from Rotorua yesterday, and on the dash below the tacho where the trip meter info normally shows how many km's of range left, km's done etc etc, a number "3" flashed up along with some Japanese writing for about 4-5 seconds and then disappeared. It did it 2 or 3 times. I have had the car 7 months/10,000km and never seen this before. It flashed up too quickly to have time to take a photo of it. Has anyone seen this before and know what it is telling me?!?! Cheers.
  15. So after purchasing my first legacy over the weekend, I need to get Bluetooth installed. Vehicle is a 2004 Legacy B4 with the standard Mcintosh stereo system. Firstly, it's pretty difficult getting cd's sounding decent. Have tried playing with the mids/treble/bass etc and can't get it sounding satisfactory. Seems that it requires some sort of boost. Are there any hidden settings? Or have people found good eq settings for the equipment? I tend to listen to a lot of Rock too. Secondly, how difficult is it to get the system replaced in it's entirety? I assume this is pretty expensive to get professionally done? Partner had a Mazda with the Bose system installed and that was a nightmare replacing. But well worth it in the end. Thirdly, are there any Bluetooth kits that people can recommend, maybe just have it sitting in the glove box etc? Again thanks for the help
  16. Hey all, New to the site and Subaru's in general. I'm looking at purchasing my first this weekend. And wanted to know whether there is anything I should be checking/looking for when I test drive this weekend. Also, whether there are any big differences between the 2l and 3.0r's other than engine size. Also whether these prices are realistic for the vehicles. Here are the vehicles on the list so far: Thanks in advance for your help and advice
  17. Hello once again team! I am looking to do some cheapish exhaust mods to me 3.0r sedan based off what I have read online. So far the menu looks like this. Delete 3rd Cat. Replace centre muffler with 2.5" redline resonator. So far I have some saying leave the centre muffler alone or youll (drone) regret it. And others saying do what you like it does next to nothing. Has anyone gone down this path before? Keen to hear your tips. Cheers!
  18. Hi all, first time posting on here - im massively stuck on an issue i’ve had with the legacy for quite a while now basically it sounds like a front wheel bearing knackered - but ive changed both and also both cv axles (driveshafts) not only is there a crazy rumbling noise, something is also causing the car to wander when at expressway speeds (like a steering joint is worn...) HELP!!! Surely there is someone on here that has experienced a similar issue Really appreicate any response or suggestions - thanks!!
  19. Hi all, as you can see this is a dummy account Ive created because my main one is not showing topics atm. Anyway I'm just after a bit of advice. Ive got a 2004 3.0r legacy with the standard (Kenwood?) GX-201JE stereo. Just recently the display has died, stereo still works, HVAC display still works. The only thing thats not working is the display for the stereo. Ive pulled it apart hoping there was a bad connection or similar easy problem I could fix but have come up short. At this stage I am looking at replacing it with another unit/faceplate thats standard as well and have found a GX-203JE to swap out with. Does anyone know whether the GX-201JE and the GX-203JE are a straight swap? Visually they look identical but I'm buying online and can't direct compare them. Thanks
  20. Hey team! Have been quoted $550 to replace a front wheel hub on my '05 Legacy BLE Spec B Sedan. After doing some research I have determined that it is probably a backyard type job with the right tools and a mate or two with experience. I have found a couple of hub pricings but want to see if any of you have dealt with these brands before or know of any alternatives. Febest - $140 FBJ - $80 Subaru Genuine - $300 ish Any other tips or tricks about the job as a whole would be appreciated too, I think I have a good handle on how to do it but if there are any hidden pitfalls I would like to hear about it.
  21. In lieu of a new Technical board structure being implemented soon, here are the workings for the new FAQ posts to replace all technical stickies, and hopefully most of your searches. This is a temporary post because it isn't helping anyone locked away while I'm too busy to finish it. Please post additional useful links as a new post for a Mod to add to the list. Mods, I've tried to categorise things logically and keep double-ups to a minimum. PM me any questions. Cheers, kamineko INFORMATIONAL Documents Every JDM brochure - chappell943 SUBARU PARTS CATALOGUE - B4 2000 Workshop Manuals Workshop Service Manuals - Stoffa Gen 1 Legacy workshop manual - slystiguy Gen 3 and 4 workshop manuals - paulngui Legacy 1998-2003 Service Manual (GEN III incl RSK/GT) - suubyduuby Workshop manual BE/BH 2003MY. Covers TT 4442 pages by Fuji Heavy Industries - Rosssub FORESTER 1999-2002 Workshop Manual - luvmaforzzy pdf Engine manual for a Ej20t Dohc - subaru-mania Vacuum Diagrams and Solenoid Placements for WRX - Swindog Gadget Manuals Programming Keyless Entry Info All Legacy GT/b's Installation manuals (Timers/Controllers etc) - Joker Zero Sports Sequential Controller DIY translation - nncoolg G4 pdf manual - evowrx GFB G-Force 2 Boost Controller Manual Gizzmo Ibc Manual Model Codes & Specifications Impreza WRX Classic Model Codes - kamineko JDM WRX ECUS - kamineko JDM WRX Brake setups - kamineko Factory Power/Torque/Kerb Weights for all GC/GF Models. - thorpy How to decipher model/chassis codes (JDM vehicles) - boostin Legacy JDM Legacy applied model codes - readosnr Legacy BL BP info - subieboy Forester JDM Forester applied model codes -readosnr Engine ECU basics from ScoobyMods including reset & CEL Reading procedures V3/4 Sti Shim under aftermarket valves Part Numbers - thorpy Intercooler and Other Related FAQ's - Swindog Turbo Subaru Turbo System explained - Stoffa Turbo FAQ's - Swindog More IHI Turbo specs - Shale Drivetrain Manual Transmission Ratios - By Johnnynz Subaru Gearbox Chart V2 - GC8E2DD Subaru Gearbox Code Chart Electrical Full list of fault codes - Boostin Check Engine Light CEL Codes - kamineko Subaru ABS Fault Codes Power Light Fault Codes (Automatic Transmission) - arsenal69 Wiring guides and pinouts - ReubenH ECU Pinouts BC5 BG5a WRX (4 plug) pinouts V7 STI ECU Diagram ECU pinouts
  22. Was driving my car home tonight (2007 Legacy GT JDM), stopped at the lights and then took off, this weird exhaust-y noise came from the front of my car closer to engine bay, I thought it was a Honda next to me at first but then realised it car from my car. I stopped on the side and turned off the car and started it back up again, still had that noise.. A bit louder through the lower rpms, and I can't really hear my exhaust from the back (HKS hi flow exhaust).. Also feels like there's less power.. Gonna take her to the mechanic tomorrow morning, but any ideas what it could be? I checked under the hood once I got home, couldn't find anything unusual..
  23. Alright guys, I've had a look in the search bar to see if this has already been asked, couldn't find anything... so here goes. I am looking to import a 2007 - 2009 BP Legacy wagon and i'm struggling to decide between the two main engine options, the 3.0R and the 2.0T. I will be getting a Spec B with the 6 speed manual regardless of what engine i decide on, so i was wanting some feedback from y'all on your experiences. My main questions are the following: - which would be faster? - which is easier overall to live with? reliability etc. - does the EZ30 have much of an aftermarket? or is it primarily a exhaust swap and a tune to boost power and thats it? - fuel economy, what sort of figures do you see in your 2.0T/EZ30? this wont really matter TBH but would be interesting to see. - insurance... that old chestnut. im guessing the EZ30 will be cheaper to insure? Any information is totally welcomed. Thanks team!
  24. Just sharing the information I am working on another Raptor Supercharged H6 3.0 5EAT
  25. Hey, Currently running KYB shocks (unknown model) and am looking to replace or upgrade if possible. KYB haven't seen me wrong so interested in either: Part numbers for the OEM replacement strut/shocks Part numbers for the AGX variant strut/shocks so I can try to source these offshore Or... any recommendations for strut/shock replacement options Any good suppliers for any of the above Details are: BD5A TT Legacy RS, high KM's and standard springs/suspension. Daily motorway driver but am looking for improvements with open road / uphill / downhill Rimutaka performance. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks, DS