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  3. ditto, shed bound for now, might get it out for the Jappa Car day @ Tui Brewery on the 30th
  4. Mines doing 5 litres to the year at the moment..
  5. Car : 97 wrx jdm Tuned : v3 sti 6s ecu and vf23 Fuel : BP98 Fuel economy : 13l/100km ( run in time ) sits in garage till I get it revinned Car : 07 accord euro Tuned : stock with 270000km Fuel : BP95 Fuel economy : open road 7.2l/100km, 10l/100km, can get Dunedin to timaru return with more than 1/2 tank remaining.
  6. Hitting 20 when off the throttle is normal. I still think there is another leak somewhere too. You logic of it being post turbo was what I was thinking too, isn't a guarantee though. The quickest and easiest way is to do a proper pressurised leak check or smoke test. There is a lot of stuff going on in these cars so finding it by trial and error will take forever.
  7. Also as an update: looking at the logs it appears the only time the fuel learning figures drop into the big negative is the moment after using the throttle at reasonable levels. Sort of like this: Put foot down, mixture richens as it should to around 12, no fuel learn. Back off from throttle, mixture leans to around 20, negative fuel learn values show. Throttle re-applied, normal values and mixture back to 14.9. Issues with the factory blow off valve? Dumping to much air to account for with mixture? As far as I can tell it is this reason the LV gives such negative values, as otherwise it seems within normal limits.
  8. Hi all, Just as the title states, I am interested in someone who can do some suspension repair as one of my rear HKS Hipermax adjustable suspension has developed a knock (based on my initial investigation). I have not investigated it further yet but would like to know if there are any recommendations for suspension repairs in Auckland? I was wondering whether it is cheaper to repair it or just buy a set of new ones. I know repairs and costs vary but if you have gotten something like this repaired, please let me know how much you paid to get it done. Cheers
  9. Have replaced the intercooler and associated seals in an attempt to try stop this vaccum/intake leak. Reset ECU, the IAM has now established and stabilized at 1, but still shows signs of intake leak with the fuel correction figures. Log: I notice that when off the throttle (0%), fuel learn figures jump into negative values bigtime and then the AFR goes up to 20. It seems that it only happens with nil throttle. LV: I have inspected around at the various vaccum lines and cant find any loose ends. The fact that it is a negative value, I assume that is removing fuel? So air is lost, so probably leak post turbo?
  10. Car: 2002 Legacy B4 (BE5) Tuned: Road tuned by Pappu on stock ecu (est. 180kw-190kw), Mod: 2.5" Decat exhaust Fuel : Mobil 98 Fuel economy : Roughly 7km/Litre in traffic, 9km/Litre open road Driving style : Daily Driven, boost here and there but mostly keep under 3k rpm.
  11. Yesterday
  12. lol congrats you actually did it! Bet it goes faster than any other $500 engine ever Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
  14. Aaaaand the RA has now been tuned properly for e85. And only E85 haha Giving the vf36 a leaning on and pushing 1.5Bar of boost through the poor old EJ205, and she loves it! Good lord this thing goes far better than it did before. Bit of a kick in the guts considering the last engine cost me about 7k + some after it nuked and this ol 205 was nothing but $500 including a new water pump and cam belt kit!! None the less I’m bloody happy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Low price is subjective. The b series twin turbos really have tanked in value. It all depends on condition and how it's been cared for. I'd probably spend the bit extra and get a 2003 onwards legacy
  16. Hi just trying to figure out a new setup. I currently I have ej25 with ej205 v5-6 heads(twin turbo heads) but wanting to change to ej25 heads. But really want to re use my cams as they were quite hard and expensive to get a hold of. So my question is will the cams fit into the ej25 head. (Unsure which one yet) Cheers Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  17. It's a revision b So would an ej208d be an good replacement engine?
  18. Hey all. I'm looking at purchasing a 2002 Legacy Blitzen. Its travelled around 190,000kms hence the low price of $3500. Is this a good purchase or am I being silly? Also things to look out for? I'm aware of cam belt and the associated parts needed. Your advice would be much appreciated. Thanks
  19. Last week
  20. I know we have dismantled 2 SVX's but we have 3 engines so another one has gone as well, also dismantled an XT, I will try and find photo's to get REGOs for you
  21. 1993 Subaru SVX Licence Plate: XF7262 Chassis Number: CXW-003501 Exterior Colour Scheme: Onyx Grey/Onyx Grey Interior Colour Scheme: Unknown NZ New/Imported: Imported from Japan 1998 Options/Modifications: Unknown Last Known Location: Rotorua
  22. 1992 Subaru SVX Licence Plate: ASVX ZK1352(2000-2006) UBARU(1999-2000) YA2873(1999) Chassis Number: CXW-003295 Exterior Colour Scheme: Claret/Black Interior Colour Scheme: Unknown NZ New/Imported: Imported from Japan 1999 Options/Modifications: Spoiler Last Known Location: Unknown
  23. 1992 Subaru SVX Licence Plate: YZ2714 Chassis Number: CXW-003282 Exterior Colour Scheme: Ebony/Black Interior Colour Scheme: Part Black Leather/Grey Suede/Woodgrain NZ New/Imported: Imported from Japan 2000 Options/Modifications: Unknown Last Known Location: Rotorua
  24. Hi Matt. I stuck with the divided up pipe all the way to the turbo... figured there would still be some benefits from less pulse interference. Whether it's that or the headers, the spool is better anyway. Good to know... it helps to confirm my thinking then. Something I have discovered is just how meaningless a dyno chart is in some respects. The divided 1.01 and single entry 0.63 with both spool almost the same on paper, but couldn't be different on the road.
  25. Engine pitch stop install, rear subframe inserts and about to tackle spark plugs... Fun day really
  26. I got the report back from Link about my ECU..... So I did some digging.... It was the fuel pump keeping the ECU Online.... un-freaking-believable.... Makes a hell of a lot of sense why the thing was seriously troubled and wouldn't behave under any normal circumstances. This ladies and gentlemen is why you should be careful jump starting your car, because I tracked it back to the one event where the jump cables touched for a split second and that's all it took to kill my ECU. EDIT: Also, as an addition, the ECU shouldn't be drawing more than 1-2 amps according to Matt. So even a 5A fuse would be more than suitable. As such I've gone to a 5A.
  27. Engine and transmission mounts are in, bolted up the header as well. Didn’t realize in my infinite wisdom that the header was a 3 bolt instead of the factory two bolt so I walked away for today. I’ll pull the turbo out tomorrow and put the uppipe in. Might as well do the inlet and catch can at the same time. Also I’ll probably just come up and check out one of the Auckland meets.
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