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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/01/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Upgrade to a 94 Sti Ecu, STI VF28 /VF23 or similar and yellow sti injectors and be done. Should be able to get all second hand for good price.
  2. 2 points
    for my 2c worth. A 'cheap' way would be a TD05/VF??? upgrade, and something like a Z4 ECU, maybe injectors a not sure what yours runs. that would be a budget conscious build with out adding boost controller, from memory it peaks at just over 13psi, i had this combo in my BC5 and it was enough for me for a while.
  3. 1 point
    Hi guys I'm just doing some research on which way is best to go to make more power. A balance between cost and reliability really, big power isn't really a goal of mine. I have a my94 wrx with an open deck block and td04. I plan on upgrading to mls headgaskets and possibly bigger oil pump and just refreshing seals and gaskets when I do the timing belt and wp, nothing too flash. I've read that stock my ej20g can handle 14 psi.. I'd like to get something around that, but how best to do it? I've been looking at electronic boost controllers and widebands as that sorta stuff seems to be midrange, but a plug in link g4+ seems to be the way to go in terms of power potential reliability and efficiency. Ideally would like to keep my td04 just because single scroll.
  4. 1 point
    Will be following this thread with interest, As I too would like to know these things. I have an Automatic 1996 220PS wrx gravel express, would love to know what kind of power I can safely run on the stock Ej20G open deck(is 260-280 a safe estimate?) At the moment my plans are Manual swap it and get a Link g4+ with a TD05 upgrade, currently rocking the TD04 factory. Not after massive power just want a nice daily, I hear the TD05 kicks in a bit later, might help fuel economy and top end. TD04 is responsive and pretty fun in the low end though. Would also like to look into a turbo back and intake at some point, though i am hesitant to install these before getting a G4+ so i can safely tune for them, as i dont wanna harm my engine.
  5. 1 point
    Yes, Thanks for all the replies. This weekend (if I can get into the workshop) going to test the up/down o2 sensor and have a look at the AVCS. From what I can gather on the AVCS, there is a banjo bolt, two gaskets, and a filter that could be causing the rough idle. Going to change engine oil and filter just in case as well.
  6. 1 point
    Pull the AVCS solenoids out and check for debris from the banjo filters collapsing. Ensure that the solenoids can move and put them back in. Very common issue causing rough idle/low rpm running. Pulled mine out and the filters were stuck in the solenoid mechanism jamming it at high advance.
  7. 1 point
    For the shift linkage and pivot bushings a guy called corgiwerx makes hardened replacements which will help a heap. Or just grab some new factory ones from partsouq.com The pivot bushings made a heap of difference on mine. Almost completely removed the large distance side to side slop. https://www.facebook.com/CorgiWerx/