Kiwi_Fozze

Nope, the v9 spec c wheel has airbag, but it's black.

You need to grab the clockspring as well, as the plugs at the wheel end are different, but apart from that it's a straight forward job. Just done a v9 spec c wheel into my v7

Oh, it should have a little body roll, and going from an sti you should notice a lot more sag and roll in the arse of it. The rear sway bars are woefully small

They drive like a sti, but a lot more punch down low. 1 bar boost is the target setting (14.7 psi) Run out of puff at the top end, lots of gains to be had from a return (new owner should have a chat to the sas lads, and should also come along to flatnats labour weekend!!!!!!!!)

Take it for a good drive. Like, minimum 45 mins. Get the trans good and warm. Slow down, pull over, then do a real slow full lock u turn, each way. If it's binding, you'll get wheel Skip and it'll feel... Yuk.

My concern would be the condition of the center diff, if the owner has been replacing tyres by the pair it could have done damage. Good rotation discipline is key with subies, so you replace all 4 tires at the same time But all in all, foresters are wicked. I love em, and it's the better looking pre facelift front end. Kms are pretty good too, but I'd still be looking for service history

Bit of a hot topic on nasioc. Pros (aparantly) less rotational mass, faster revs. Cons no harmonic balancing, potential bearing damage (aparantly)

Nah, I shoved a pry bar into it and shoved it around till it lined up lol. Had to clean out the threads afterwards, but I'm adamant they needed doing anyway

spot on. need v8 sedan specific bumper and lights, but wrx or sti matters not. easy swap, happy hunting!!

My car (bit of an extreme example) could be pushed side to side on the subframe. (Bushes really old) When throwing the car around corners, with the big rear bar, there was still a noticable amount of movement, to the point of the rear end feeling like I had 4w steering or a popped Tyre in the rear. The locking bolts fixed that +1 for alignment, had to move my whole subframe about 20mm to get it to all line up, didn't have a chance to get it done before a long trip, destroyed a set of rear tyres in 1500km

Imho, rear subframe locking bolts are a bloody good move. Rear diff bushes don't normally fail

Issues, the early legacys are renowned for destroying turbos. Even if they are well serviced. They are just as highly strung, given they are still a 280 (ish) hp turbocharged Japanese performance tourer, and yes definately 98 only. People seem to think that Japanese cars will run nicely over here, fact of the matter is anything that is considered premium, luxury or any sort of special model (so like, 95% of all Japanese imports) are tuned to run on 100 octaine fuel, so running em here on 98 is less than ideal. However. They are retunable, and if you replace the turbo for one from a facelift legacy (vf44/vf45) remove all the oil feed banjo filters and a Gentle retune, you can have one very rapid, reliable and 95 friendly car. Out of the box, they can be touchy. But its easily remedied

Good luck with the ecu throwing its toys out the cot though. Hope you have an aftermarket one lined up

Update: yep, that got it. Looks like I need to dial out a little camber in the rear, gets a bit squirmy on boost mid corner, im at just on 2 degrees each side so i'll try taking it back to about 1.5 deg

Think i've chased out my annoying clunk. Passenger side endlink was a touch loose. Shortened the threads on the whiteline balljoint endlinks, much easier to get the bastards in and out now. Installed mudflaps, red ones from a company called "rokblokz", 98usd plus about 30 nzd to ship em here (youshop ftw) Nice fitment, they arent the super flexible urethane ones, but they look alright. Quite happy with em!! Taking car for a drive after dinner, got some things to do, good chance for a shakedown. V7 rear control arms are on their way up from coromandel, second ro last piece of the puzzle, just got to sort the bbs rims!! Dropped them off with my tyre guy to get em checked for roundness, pricing up some shreading tyres for flatnats lol

You know that Cobb 3port is a re branded $85nzd mac valve aye... ;-) Good luck with tune, decat will need it!

tactrix cable works mint

Company called smits in East tamaki

Well, the bbs rims have now been hit with paint stripper. Bit of sanding to get the last stubborn bits off. Evidence of a previous repair. Have some good primer and 4 cans of bbs gold (paint code gk1 for anyone playing at home) will get the tyres removed before paint, as the tyres are totally stuffed Plan now: Sand, couple of coats of primer, sand, gold, sand, gold gold gold till I run out, then clear coat, tyres on, fit to car, flatnats. Lol

Even from standard, and the 2.0 jdm ones are notorious for it. Buy as new as you can afford, the 2007 ones are the first revision with all of the issues

bought some spec c bbs wheels last night, tyres need changing on em though, and they need a clean. pretty good condition, they'll be on the car for flatnats replaced the rear swaybar mounts. good thing i did, the mounts had started to twist, and the swaybar retainer clip had deformed to the point where it was bloody difficult to undo. found a company called Schroth racing. they have clip in / clip out 4 point "trackday" harnesses. buying one of them...

I think i'll take you up on that

Well, @calebwrx, thats Poked.... I waxed it. Like, random orbital polisher, several hours later... Ogod i'm sore, but damn, its been a LONG time since I last owned a car that was that shiney / water beads up on. The paint is soooo slippery now, and it sparkles!!!!! Very very happy. Also, very very sore. Lol

@gotasuby sent your favebook page a message, my ferry trip is nailed down so bloody keen to come see you guys Friday b4 flatnats for a gentle tune fondle if you have space!!!!

Anyone know if theres one of them fan style jets that's a direct eplacement, as opposed to the twin jet most of em have? Sorry, bit of a thread hijack