Kiwi_Fozze

dragons breath - ocd. There's a similar product, less aggressive but possibly more thorough, made by motomuck available at repco. bloody good product. what did i do today.... baked my headlights. yep, stuck em in the oven. well, just the drivers one. swapped out the chrome look insert for the original matte black one. swapped in my new hid lamps while i had the headlights out. lined up the headlights. the left light isnt moving any more with the level switch, i shall investigate at a later date. old hid's were a bit dim and starting to fade purple. upgrade time lol flashed back the e-tune now i have all the little issues sorted, time to continue with the tune. slow process. found a fuel rail leak. common occurrence on the gd/gg chassis, when it gets cold the fuel rails shrink and a small amount of raw fuel seeps past the hose clamp. its fine once its warm. only way to fix is to rip the intake manifold off as the screw clamps are upside down.

it'll be more noticable in high gears. just get it done....

This is true, the v7's in particular are tuned VERY conservitively out of the box. But if you arent tuning for the mods, is there any point? :-P

Genuine filter ftw. But rycos are good too. Oil. Manual says 5w30, but 10w40 magnatec is my normal go-to with higher milage. Mind you, im running 5w30 edge atm lol it was cheap. I do mine every 5000km, iirc manual says 7000 or 7500, cant quite remember. Oil pan requires 4.5l 4 litres is an under fill, not a good idea. Most here fill 5 litres of the good stuff, the 0.5 litre overfill is good for when you really lean on it, sure it may blow some oil out the head breathers, but i'd rather that than hae a bigend go.

my AEM cai drops down into the guard. quite impressed tbh, logging has netted a lower average intake temp, but the ecu has had to adjust about 18% learning trims in some places (my learning limit has been bushed out to 25% either way) even though the AEM pipe ID is exactly the same diameter as the maf thankfully i'm already mostly tuned, that'd wreak havoc on a factory tune

that perrin pipe on tm is an in-bay short "ram" style intake. may as well just run a filthy in bay pod. same job. probably run a bit better tbh. intake changes always needs a tune. hell, its a v7, it NEEDS tuning.

Personally, I would.

Make sure you get some v7 sedan axles, the wagon ones are the same length as the gc8, as confirmed during my swap. Not so much of an issue in the r180 rear end, but could well be a deal breaker in the r160

A-line, thats the 2.5 jdm auto aye? Iirc all the early gr models, jdm and export market, are affected by unreasonable oil burn. I've not heard much about the 2.5 autos popping motors, but the export stuff is facing a class action out of the states

took the bike in for a wof. aparantly, with my silencer in the exhaust, its borderline too loud, but the wof inspector reckons that it sounds good, and significantly quieter than "them bloody harleys", needless to say the bike passed hahahahahhaha on the car, installed a shiny new cusco brake master cylinder brace. LOTS better feel on pedal, firewall flex was huge

Repco has it, think supercheap should also

Motomuck has released a bottlenof dragons breath equivalent, but significantly cheaper. Works really well. Get in to it with a stiff bristled brush, you may have to go over the rims a few times to loosen everything up

Sg foresters need to be plugged in to a code reader to get the correct results, sorry

Genuine clutch is still excedy, and when I checked part numbers last they were the same as the non genuine "upgrade" offered by excedy Imho Go genuine. They will handle over 260kW, they are cheap, they are nice to drive with and can still comfortably daily

It happens

Do remember the rangers have oil drain and fill issues

Well, that worked. Cut the 3Rd mounting hole off the swaybar (softest setting) also shortened the endlinks right down. Bit of a pain to fit, but fit she does!! No creaks, no clunks, happy days!! What I do need to do now is rip the rear wheels off and reset the rear camber. Its surprising just how many "alignment specialists" dont know how to use aftermarket camber bolts

Yep v10 sedan, alloy arms. They are about 1/4 the weight of the ones that came out too, its great. But yes, I definately think the swaybar is pissed lol

Lubed the crap out of the swaybar bushes and control arms. Swaybar ends damaging solid brake line connection, and scraping on the fuel filler plastic shield. Tomorrows plan: cut off the 3Rd tension setting (softest) from the swaybar, shorten the end links (universal links) re tighten the control arms with weight loaded, and check to see I havent busted anything. For those playing at home: V7 sti rear control arms use a c shaped swaybar link mounted under the control arm. The v10 endlinks use a balljoint link mounted above the control arm. If converting, you need really short endlinks hahaha

Definately good value, should sting you less than $100 from the likes of Subaruspeed.co.nz

Yeah, turn the fault codes off in the ecu image is how you get it to ignore em

Nope, its in the up pipe

Oem part number: 22641AA191 http://m.ebay.com/itm/Oxygen-Sensor-Lambda-Sensor-for-Subaru-Impreza-oem-22641-AA191-22641AA191-/181941958443 Strongs wants funny money for one: https://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/products/oxygen-sensor-22641-aa191

Whats your rego?

His name is Amit, and he's one of the fussiest tuners i've met. Does road tunes only, and he tunes for drivability and feel, he's not about the numbers, but still gets some crazy numbers. https://www.facebook.com/CUSTOMCULTURETUNING/ Dont think they do paint / body work, but worth asking