chappell943

Battery off and pump brake pedal a few times will do it, yeah I wouldn\'t mind experiencing the problem, we can always chuck my maf sensor in to see if that fixes it to. So does it only happy if you try accelerate under partial throttle?

If you check the plugs, clean the maf again and reset the ecu and see if that makes a difference. If that doesn\'t help I\'m pretty sure I can log misfires through my laptop so we could try that although I\'m unsure what the story is regarding the check engine light and missfires.

I can\'t be 100% but a hesitation could be caused by a large amount of timing being removed due to a faulty knock sensor, but when I plugged in there was no stored knock at all. Looking online earlier the maf sensor seemed like a common thing that fixed the problem when replaced, so maybe try another one to eliminate something else.

Had the car plugged into my laptop and there was no stored knock learning and all the fuel trims were in order indicating a leak is unlikely.

As far as I know there were no more Sti hatches after the v7.

Deffinetly get a new downpipe, injectors will be really Maxed out at 220kw and it may be a good idea to change them prior to tune rather then go to get tuned and find out they are a limiting factor, also would go with new fuel pump.

Just saw you were in Christchurch, I have a gfb atomic boost tee if you want to try it out and see if that fixes the issue? I also have a tactrix cable and I could check if there are any memorized codes (even if no cel).

Drove back from Hokitika after only just being able to make it on Monday (Had to convince the guy at Arthurs pass to let me through without snow chains, 4wd ftw. excuse the head turn, image shack is being stupid.

Sounds like the ECU is disabling boost control because of det, if someone in your area has a tactrix cable then you could plug the car in and easily find out if its an ecu issue or faulty solenoid etc.

If your car doesn\'t have a wof or reg it shouldn\'t be on the road, enough said. One of the best ways to make the roads safer is to get all the death traps of it.

The little knob on the speedo cluster on the left is to adjust it (knob is the same as trip computer one but on the left of the cluster not the right), car must not be moving while adjusting it either.

Fixed my stupid rattling up pipe heat shield, glad to not have to listen to it any more.

v7 sti's call for stupidly rich fuel targets under boost, I imagine the gc8s must be similar, look forward to seeing the results of nzefi's work.

Id says you'd be better spending slightly more for NZEFI to tune it as that way you can smooth out/alter ignition timing and boost tables as well, but can't say I have any experience with a piggy back fuel controller so can't really comment. Interesting about the stock v7 sti though! although they do pull alot of timing out of the tune once they start running on New Zealand fuel. Edit: Also stock boost is meant to taper to 12psi at redline!

Nice vid! Im sure I saw this going down clyde road last night by Medbury school? You still going to go ahead with the tune from NZEFI?

Last night, bleed my brakes and changed the trailing arm front bushes, what a PITA, getting the old bush/the metal sleeve out. Now just need to sort some new front pads for the brembos and I'll be ready to go to the coast in a week!

I'd say youll be look at at least 25-30wkw increase which will be alot Of fun, but it's not all about the final number as you'll find the car will hold boost better, be smoother through the rev range and potentially have better low down torque.

Awesome, make sure to get a dyno chart and post it up!

295whp and stock they are roughly 235-250whp. All this depends on the dyno as well but you will definitely notice a difference if NZEFI can take your car to 220wkw.

A stock sti would dyno at about 175wkw so 220wkw would be a massive gain on the bum dyno, with most sti's anything over and above 220-230kw becomes a much bigger investment. 220wkw is alot of fun and will see you reaching 100kph in sub 5 seconds and getting from 100-135km in 2.8sec (According to my datalog on V7 sti).

I imagine that is near the end of the turbos efficiency, also the 440cc injectors will nearly be maxed out at 220wkw (depending on AFR's), not saying upwards of 220kw isn't possible, just suggesting the extra 10-15kw might not be worth it.

Found this on trademe, dam sharp price if someone is looking for one for data logging, this model doesn't support reflashing though. Cheap way to monitors cars health. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/electronics/auction-513331115.htm

as you could see, 4) held for clearance, that was since last Wednesday afternoon, im yet to hear or receive a thing ??? anyone got any insight on whats going on?? I had this a while ago, i received a letter from customs telling me I owe them gst plus alot of BS fees, if you havent received your letter yet then ring new zealand post or customs and quote your tracking number and they will sort you out.

Helped a mate take his gearbox out of his v7 sti for a clutch change and changed my spark plugs for the first time, found out it is nowhere near as hard as some people make it out to be.

Good to hear the logger is working as thats always fun to have a play with and you can't do any damage! I can't exactly remember how to read the ecu because its been awhile since iv done it but I am pretty sure these are the steps, 1.have green plugs plugged together and jumper block plugged in. 2.have key off and have tactrix cable plugged in and ecuflash open 3.push read from ecu 4.make sure any immobilizer is off and turn the key all the way on (but don't crank the car!) 5. quickly push the ok button on ecuflash, if you hear the radiator fans start cycling you were too slow If this doesn't work I can go out and read the rom from my car and get the exact steps but let me know Since the read from ecu button is lit up this should indicate that ecuflash is recognizing the cable just fine and if you unplug it usually it grays itself out again.