killervq30de

What are people seeing/paying for these tyres at the moment? Bridgestone have the buy 3 get 1 free offer but I'm still quoted $900 all up for 215/45 R18's from Tonys. I saw on another thread some one paid like $840 for 235 R19's. I'm waiting for the tyres to come up from ChCh so if I paying over the odds I've still got time to ask the question

I have all that and the lowest level of mechanical ability

Does that mean 07 facelift gtb autos do come with oil cooler? And transcooler?

Honestly, as a by stander reading that I'd say your next step is to get the engine replaced under the warranty - sell it cheap and walk away.

Late to the party and didn't read whole thread.. but didn't you just turn the an Outback into a Legacy? geninue curosity here no trolling

So maybe my consumption is normal? But the dyno chart shows its running rich? My car was probably bit heat soaked, as I drove there, parked up for not long and then dyno'd without airflow. Wouldn't think it would make the ECU run the car rich though.

Rather not mess with the tune right now. I'm hoping its dieing O2 sensors. It's at 93kms now and I got it at 55kms, economy seems to be getting worse but it's always been 7-8km/l

Hopefully not long distance otherwise your round town must be as bad as mine?

ok.. late late reply I get an average of 400-500(tops) on a tank around Auckland, which can be quite hilly in places. I drive it like its a turbo car. On the economy meter thing I get around 7-8Km/l around town and long distance (can't recall but) 12Km/l So again from my top post, what I can do/replace to get some economy (and power) back. I got flash/tune until my Mechanical Warranty is up next July.

..bump.. for you.. I think people pull these out quite often so you'd think a wrecker or someone on here would have one

Had the car dyno at the recent AKL ClubSub dyno day and the car is running rich .. not a big surprise when I think about the lower fuel economy I seem to have compared with other people on the forum. My car is JDM 2007 BP5 with 92,xxx KM's on the clock .. where do I start to troubleshoot and resolve this AND which ones are going to have the best gains 1. How many O2 sensors are there.. are say the fronts more common to fail than the rears so start there .. which ones play the biggest factor in the fueling 2. Knock sensor (unrelated) but on my old A32 Maxima knocksensors were common to Half-fail and not throw a CEL.. timing just wouldn't advance as much. Subs? 3. MAF? is that being dirty a factor? Airfilter should be ok .. I get it serviced at Winger Sublabs mainly for warranty but also I've had a good run there 4. Fuel filter? Is it replaceable - probably not a factor either though 5. Spark plugs - they'll be done at the 100k service (i guess) Anything else?

Just saying but IRD doesn't like cash jobs - if its a hobby you're allowed but if in business they'll get you and are cracking down at the mo

If that's my figure then yeah and actually dropped under s# run. I blame no airflow and the running rich. The rich part makes sense as my car sits around 7.6 odd with 100% round town flooring where others seems to be round the 8.5s. Will have to look into o2 and knock sensors I saw a 130kw, that's 30% drive train lost so seems reasonable

I don't think you can base it off one car. I drove a manual 05 gt and 06 auto when I got mine and they both felt sluggish. Where as mine didn't. Same for when looking for a gtir years ago and 350gt skylines, some cars are just below par.

As I found out today, dyno now and see how it's going. I thought mine was making ok stock power but looks like I'm running way rich sapping power.

It's best of both worlds, auto when you just want to not worry about it and manual-Like mode and when you want to be sportier and go round windy corners. manuals care I've had before I love shifting but sometimes I just got sick of riding the clutch. This one I got auto because my partner couldn't drive manual

The paddles should have same response as moving the shifter in manual mode. If not maybe the switches are dying in the paddles. Autos are generally not that responsive, I find manual mode and sport# is pretty good but there is still v.minor lag.

Sell and buy manual?

My new battery lasted less than 6 months, must have been an off brand and not an ennegizer or something

Brakes?

autolign in Auckland recondition for a pretty low price, but sublabs were saying they could get a pretty good price on just replacing them out right

Mine started knocking just the other day same side, I thought it was blown shock, unfortunately it was just lose strut bolt somewhere (according to mech) otherwise I could have got new front shocks under warranty

Well to be selfish, thinking of my 2007 facelift gtb And was thinking more performance orientated wise

Just curious as to what uprated or different components the GTB has over the GT? Does it have an extra Autotrans oil cooler? Are the brakes any different? Are the shocks actually different? Is the overall handling different in the GTB? (spoke to a guy who had the 3litre NA and he was saying handling wasn't as good)

Do you have a sound clip of this combo? I have the genomes now and will get the down pipe and mid later (what diameter is yours?)