vr4ex

Never seen it before. Looks tidy enough tho. If youre in no hurry I will have a white 99 v5 sti sedan and a green 98 nz new wrx sedan for sale. Both mint but will come with the price tag to suit as both have had motors done.

So the update today is that im now thinking that its spark related in relation to rpm., boost or no boost still seems to do it. Crank gear or LH inlet cam gear giving sensor incorrect reading? Thoughts?

So today ive changed cam and crank angle sensors which I knew wouldn\'t have any affect. Checked engine earths. Checked earth and power supply to coil and also jumped the power supply to the coil straight too the battery. Checked the spark from the coil, which is pretty agro. Wouldnt want to get a boot from it! As for injector colour im not sure but yellow seems to be the norm. Jap ecu plugged in but it did nothing. No fuel pjmp or anything. Plugs were black with dry soot.

Black sticker E3 ecu. Im thinking the same thing as id swear it is a ignition fault. will be checking wiring to coil over weekend.

Its a v5. With Td04 turbo, yellow injectors., 260km speedo etc. Afm is the 2 screw replaceable unit as standard in v5 style engine..

Got hold of the car with heating issues. Have got that sorted but cant get to run sweet. It looks like the motor has never been out or apart. Has got yellow injectors And have most likely never been out. Have checked fuel flow and pressure with 15lb of pressure on pressure reg. Ill rip injectors out tomorrow and check or swap. Havnt got access to graphing meter.

Showed the duty cycle but i had nothing to compare it to. Can put back on scan tool anytime.

Did that last night, Its never showed any error codes. Will do again tomorrow and swap whats left to swap.

Reset as in unplug over night or Plug the plugs together and drive up the road? Fuel filter is new aswell.

I have a 98 Nz new wrx and i cant get it to perform correctly. This car is 100% orgional and un molestered. The problem is that it missfires under boost, even light amounts of boost and blows lots of black smoke. Could be due too the misfire or over fuel could be the cause of the misfire? This Car starts and runs mint otherwise. Now being a trade qualified auto mechanic ive been in there and replaced the obvious items. New plugs gapped to 0.7mm, new leads, and New airflow meter. Still no fix. So ive swapped the throttle body assembly (tps and iac), coil pack, map sensor, knock sensor and even went to the extent of sourcing another ecu as a jap one wont even run the engine. ive checked all vacume lines, checked fuel pressure and flow. Checked and replaced cambelt. Have had it on a scan tool and seen the live data and couldnt see anything wrong. Ive only really got o2 sensor, cam/crank angle sensors and injectors left to change. Anyone got any ideas except a box of matches.

Does this happen when pulling a small amount of boost? Boost gauge will show about 10psi then drop to 5, back up to 10, to 5 and so on without any throttle movement. I ask this as my V7 sti powewred bc5 legacy does the same thing.

Id chuck a new thermostat in, fill it with water (through top radiator hose), bring it up to operating temp(fans working) and check that the bottom radiator hose is hot. If the fans come on and the bottom hose is still cold this could be a circulation problem(most likely blocked heater core) where the thermostat isnt getting hot water to the engine side of it to heat it so it opens allowing coolant to pass through the radiator. If this is hapening the water in the block starts to get hotter than usual and coz the thermostat isnt opening, the water expands more than usual and starts to pressurise the cooling system and will push water out to the overflow bottle.

More info?

So i go to the car tonight, reassembled the ignition switch and key reader assembily, insert the key and turned it, on the second crank the engine went. So thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.

Ahh sweet, i know what youre talkin about, its layn on the floor of the car now, will have a crack at getting it going tomorrow night. Thanks for the help, ill let you know how i get on.

I have the correct key but the ignition barrel has been removed off the coloum and the key reader has been damaged (yanked wires out of the back). Is the key reader the 2 wire switch thats mounted to the top side of the barrel?

Thats what i thought, iv bypassed the key sensing switch but still no luck. is there any way of bypassing the imobliser?

Wouldnt say talent, more patience and a bit of clever thinking plus a whole lot of time. once the loom was stripped and wraped back up it took a day to feed it thru and connect it to the legacy loom, and on first turn of the key it went.

Its a very straight foward swap, just nuts and bolts really. Iv not long finished putting everything mechanical (motor, 6mt box, diff, front and rear hubs with brembos etc) from a 02 wrx sti into a 91 rs legacy and it was easy az, didnt have to modify a single thing except piece together a driveshaft. even wiring the factory v7 ecu in wasnt too hard.

Theres no oil in the cylinders (car landed on its wheels) well the two wheels that were left attatched so that rules that out, plus iv compression tested it as wel as checked the cam timing. Have pulled the loom out from under whats left of the guards and checked it at the pinch points and its ok. I had wondered if the factory imobliser has anything to do with it as the key light flashes continously on the dash....?

Could be a big possibility, it had a rather savage tumble.

V7 wrx wont go after being rolled, it cranks but wont start, main relay and fuel pump realy are working, fuel is at injectors and power supply is at coils tho it has no spark and im guessing that it has no injector pulse as sparkplugs come out dry. Have inspected the loom for damage and it appears to be fine and the motor is mechanicaly ok. Anyone got any ideas?

Id bypass the heater core all together and see what happens. you may find that the core (even tho its been flushed) may not be allowing enough water to flow through it to heat the thermostat.

Haha im no hero, just someone who cant say no to a deal and a subaru. Go nuts on the pic, its old now and needs a update.

you guys are onto it, 50/50 lock with sliding hub in the centre diff. its operated by a electric switch which in turn operates either one of two electric vacume solenoids, once switched on/off the solenoid allows manifold vacume through it to pull a diapdram in or out, the diaphram is connected to a cable which operates a lever on the side of the centre diff. So in one position its Fwd and the other its 4wd