Jono24

If you want to go green, ask for R1234yf, it can be used as a drop-in for R134a with approximately a 10% performance reduction compared to R134a. It has a global warming potential of approximately 350x less than R134a. It will eventually replace R134a under the current scheme.

Put the right hand head on my cdb, installed the new oil pick up and sump.

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Scaremongering, generalisations, and the anecdotal ramblings of a senile old man.

$179 for re003 fitted? I'm coming to see you next time!

You can get replacement foam surrounds. I replaced them on a set of big Cerwin Vega floor speakers, worked out good. Might not be the best option you find but don't rule it out. http://www.simplyspeakers.com/Standard-Foam-Kits_c_118-1-3.html

Interesting reading.

What sort of contamination occurs? Metal/acidity/other

What sort of car is it? What turbos have you used? Is your oil banjo inline filter still installed, and if so have you ever replaced it? Do you use the right size banjo bolt for each turbo? (The oil hole is different size for bb/journal bearing vf turbos, not sure about TD turbos.) Has the engine been rebuilt for any reason, and are there any second hand replacement parts on the engine that you know about?

Googled some images and it does match the redline shockproof. I've read it is pretty awesome but also has a shorter lifespan requiring more frequent changes. Tempted to run it till it dies and go to a 6 spd then. I'm pretty sure the current gearbox won't like the new engine if it is already dying. Could the whine be the centre diff? It doesn't sound the same as my last dying centre diff, but replacing the centre diff is a quick and relatively cheap repair.

I'm pretty sure a previous owner put redline in it. Hopefully that's what it is. The pic is of new castrol universal and what remained of the previous redline. Is it worth stripping down to replace bearings or better off to just get another second hand box?

Yes, manual transmission. I'll have to go back and double check, they didn't seem very different when draining the old stuff. Do any manufacturers provide coloured gearbox oil? I don't understand the green.

Hi Guys, See the image below of fresh oil dropped from my gearbox in my BE5D. My gearbox in my BE5D has been making a subtle whining sound above 80 km/h. I checked the gearbox oil and noticed it was a green colour (almost like coolant). I went and got some Castrol Multitrax (now named Castrol Universal 80W-90) and gave it an oil change. I tipped the whole 4 litres in without thinking and then found I only needed 3.5 litres. The photo above is the ~0.5 litres I drained of the new oil. The magnetic sump plug had a little bit of metal on it but nothing much. Are these gearboxes water cooled? this may be a dumb question but it looks like coolant to me, and after an oil change (30 mins prior to the photo above) I would have thought I would have drained *most* of the crap that was in the last oil change. I haven't done any work to this car yet (the fresh engine is on the conservatory floor awaiting head gaskets and a new turbo), apart from an engine oil change and now the gearbox oil. Any ideas as to what I'm looking at?

FYI Castrol Multitrax is no longer. The replacement is Castrol Universal 80W-90 and appears the same as the Multitrax (API GL-5). http://www.castrol.com/en_nz/new-zealand/products/cars/manual-transmission-fluids/universal-80w-90.html

Thanks for the towing responses!

What is the most weight people regularly tow with Subaru's? Any one trying there luck with a 6m fibreglass boat (~1.8 ton)? I thinking of getting a cheap 6 cylinder outback to tow with as I've heard of a few guys here towing race cars with similar... Does this sound ridiculous?

V5/6/7 sti's are 8.0:1 compression ratio. If you try use the j2 ecu you will likely experience det. You want the a7/8 wrx ecu, I ran the a7 in my rev A BE5 (8.5:1 cr).

Hi, Read up on the differences between twin scroll and single scroll Subaru turbo systems. Factory unequal length exhaust headers are what give Subaru's the traditional rumble, pretty sure your car will have the more modern twin scroll exhaust system which come with equal length headers.

The wossner pistons I got were designed for the factory bore size with a reduced piston diameter. I checked that much and provided the pistons in box to the machining shop for checking against the block. I explicitly asked him to check the suitability of the pistons for the block, I even rang him and asked the question once he'd had a chance to take a look and said it was good.

I'm looking at turbos also and have been talking to evowrx about his wrx build and Steve Murch. TD06H wont fit into the factory P25 ts exhaust housing, Murch measured while on the phone to me. TD06 might fit into factory P25 ts exhaust housing and the TD06SL2 is likely to fit, these are best guesses at the moment. It is hard/expensive to get genuine TD06/TD06H mitsi turbine wheels. The SL2 wheel was a special by Greddy and used by FP and now Kinugawa. Murch said the TD06 TS bolt-ons by Kinugawa use a different exhaust housing which allows a larger turbine wheel. (It is also possible Kinugawa are just using the SL2 wheel with a ported P25 clone and not completely describing the turbo components.) My hybrid is likely going to be a TD05H core, P25 exhaust housing and a TD06SL2 turbine. Compressor is likely to be 20-25G or a 3076 wheel with a 3" inlet cover to suit. (Plus the machining to make it bolt all together.) I don't know how these would work on your 2.5 shortblock, I am aiming for closer to 300wkw on a 2.0.

Could I get a mod to move this thread as it has now morphed into a build? Cheers.

So an update, bought a set of wrx shimless avcs heads off SAS with some sti avcs cams. Just got them back from the engine shop having been skimmed, clearances set and new stem seals installed. Pulled apart my original 10mm oil pump, inspected for wear, cleaned and reassembled. Installed back on short block and crank seal on.

I've had two be5 legacy's, one with a standard tmic (be5a) and my current one (be5d) with a hyperflow. The hyperflow is heaps bigger than the stock one but definitely still affected by heatsoak. I can't tell you which was worse but guesstimate them equal for headsoak. The hyperflow can probably flow a bit more but I've never heard of flow being an issue on a standard legacy ic. And I'm looking at fmic for my engine swap.

This might not be helpful but the ECM I/O signal for the Idle air control solenoid valve is 0 or 13-14V for ignition SW ON (engine off) and the same for when the engine is on. The note indicates waveform, so i assume the signal changes with throttle application/revs/temp blah blah blah. The info above was from a FSM for a 05 STI (might be a USDM manual) Rosssub posted for someone's BE5D single conversion on here if anyone wants to verify. Disconnect the IACV from the car and apply 12V from the battery to it and see if the solenoid moves? don't hold me to it if it breaks though :-S

I'd be interested to see how this bb-p18-vf27 goes as a primary. BB and larger ex housing maybe equal in spool to a vf26 with more potential?