PhatRS

hopefully getting emptier too, need to tidy up the interheater piping and relocate the ABS pump. [quote name='MINTGTB said: Looking pimp Jonno!! loving da wide body kit!! and has always been a fan of dat candy colour for ya inlet manifold!!! i remember when you were painting dat colour when ya first were cutting into my beloved bonnet lol!!! My god I was still painting that way back then, I have been working on this waaay too long.

Vic is a hard core gamer lol thats probly why, he put Mt Doom in another pic he did of an e30 m3 hahaha

Yeah Im over dish now (ok on drift cars), I really like heaps of concave instead now and these were the closest I could find that would fit. Dish tends to make the rims look really small and on a whale car like this Id need to run 19s or 20s at least to make it look right.

Got my old flatmate to take a few pics today, he did a bit off cool faeces with the background in the first one too. I have heaps but these are some of my favourites

tape it up with duct tape then use an angle grinder through the centre of the taped section, the tape stops it from fraying on the ends.

tt ones are 0.8mm, that may or may not help.

if you use alloy front arms you can put a spacer between the rear mounting bracket essentially moving the tyre further out. You will need to do an alignment after tho. Search the "free caster mod + spacer" there are a few posts on various forums about it.

I got a whole heap from STA parts too.

You wont need new ball joints you just need the cone adaptor that the alloy arms come with (they are just over $100 for the pair from subaru, cant remeber the part number off the top of my head tho). You will however need to change the sway bar end links to something to suit the alloy arms. You can also flip the rear mount for the a arm around 180* to give yourself more caster.

The bolt for my TD05, admittedly an evo one with a subaru rear housing, had pretty much no restrictor. Its like a 6mm hole.

as far as turbos and hardware go, vf35 and std headers would be a good way to go, should make 200-220 at a stretch but may need a decent ecu for that.

wasnt bringing tuners or dynos into disrepute, only stating one example of a couple i know of around the 230-40 region... Wasnt having a go dude, just saying that Its very hard to compare what they will make as different tuners and different dynos play too big a part. If you fake up the ratios Im sure you can make a td04 make 280@wheels lol, I think San actually got Richard at chequered flag to do this once

Depends on the dyno and settings again doesnt it, Andre at STM maintains that he sees around 220 killer beez at the wheels out of them not 240 but there has been some recorded on other dynos making 230-240 and Im sure it isnt any deficiencies in Andres tuning ability.

Not that it realy relates as they are in a JZX100 chaser but my workmate has them and they are very streetable. He has 12kg fronts and 10kg rears, but a much heavier car.

Hopefully gain a couple more KWs when I fix this leak too

96 RSB, forged 2.0 with a TD05 18g, suspect that the internal gate isnt fully closing so hence the late spool.

250 a corner if you dont have adjustable valving, if you do then at least double that. Not sure Ive heard of cuscos being rebuilt here tho, mainly Bilseins and Teins.

Sounds like your gauge is on the blink, mine did this ages ago, only read 2 bar all the time but the car ran fine. New gauge sorted it.....6 bar cold idle bout 5 bar once warm didnt change anything else. If your oil pressure was that low I think youd be hearing some baaad noises from the engine in a hurry.

How recent was this, I got a cert only 2-3 months ago and dont have any cats, the wof guy was as anal as they come for testing too, I had to go back like 4 times.

This is probly the dumbest post I will ever put here but I have lost my bag of 8 bolts for the intake manifold to the block. Car is 20mins drive away and there is a very good engineering shop down the road where I can get replacements. Can any one give me the lengths and thread pitch for them? I have the early RS manifold so there are 4 longer ones an 4 shorter. My guess is m8x1.0x35mm and m8x1.0x40mm but need to confirm.

That would be for coils wouldnt it? All my injector plugs were grey I generally mark them before I remove the injector plugs but with the factory loom you may find that there is only one plug that will reach the injector furthest away from the firewall on each bank.

The ones on TM are permacool ones I think or B&M, this is the guy that normally has them Im sure. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Core-engine/auction-292472716.htm

Nice one, will do. Cheers

Fitting sizes are m14x1.5 for the high pressure line and m16x1.5 for the return, this is at the rack tho, some models have a short hard line on both lines and I think the fittings are both m14 from that but dont quote me there. Coupla informative...ish threads on it: http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000673 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1225267&highlight=braided+power+steering

I know there was someone or a couple of people who work in hosing on here and wondering if any of them are keen to make up a replacement high pressure line for the power steering for me in a suitable (1500psi+) stainless/teflon braid. Im also going to reroute the pipe too under the manifold too cos its ugly where it is now! Basically needing the fitting to attatch to the hard line at the rack end, the braided line and the m14 banjo to fit the pump end as Im using a BH remote res pump, I can do some measurements for length and stuff. Heres some random pics of more or less what i need: Basically this but with the std size banjo on the pump end Cheers Jonno