Marky

I can't see removing a couple of inches of pipe making that much noticable difference to response - maybe just chuck an sr20 in it, would be cheaper, less hassle and way more dorifto spec (and less gearbox hungry)

Short answer is it physically fits and there's been a few people do it, I was gonna pick one up last week for a hundy and try it but needed a new MTB instead haha If you have to extend pipes, a pair of 1.5 inch silicon bends wont cost you that much and probably wouldn't hurt to do regardless A stock V7 cooler doesn't look like much (if any?) different in size - the sti one looks like a reasonable jump up, but you'd have to do something with the air shroud / ducty thing for it to be worth the trouble, otherwise you're only forcing air over 3/4 of it

Minor win - had first passengers in the back the other week, tyres scrubbed (just 215/40?/18s) - realised the back shocks were munted when following in another car last night, the way it bounces I thought of the average cut spring laurel Point this out to wifey so jump on TM for some replacements, 1 set of adjustables on their way to be installed after WOF next week

Its ok, we can overnight parts from Japan

Pretend its not yours and smash the crap out of it, otherwise you're wasting your time - no point saying "I did 12 flat but could run a 10 if I wasnt easy on it". Some people do like a "handbrake drop/slip the clutch" launch, works well with practise and is easy on the car, some swear by XXXX RPM, I tend to resort to the factory launch control by the end of the day anyway. Either that or just flooring it when the first yellow lights up, and dumping it on the last one - normally means about 5-6000rpm and it's getting some worthwhile boost. Just use some trial and error cause what works for one just doesn't for another. The driver makes a bigger difference than people give credit for - i've seen identical cars run a second apart just from one being a mechanical sadist and the other being gentle for fear of breaking anything. Practise makes perfect and the launch makes a massive difference to the time you run. Don't worry about reaction times, red light = wasted run and the clock only starts ticking after you start moving anyway. Only matters if you're worried about beating the other guy, I find its best to ignore them and just treat it as you vs the clock, unless you're genuinely in the running to get some prize money the r/t isn't anything to worry about. I've never found any gain from changing tyre pressures on street tyres, my best 60ft times have been on 18"s with 40psi in them, sometimes a little bit of wheelspin is useful in a lower powered 4wd. Some find different, that's purely my experience anyway - haven't raced in a while but have racked up about 300 runs over the years. I'll second the suspension making a big difference as well - I had a VR4 drop half a second just from getting some decent struts in and stopping the front end from lifting up off the line.

NATHANS I've never had a car fail for anything not safety related, I think they get a laugh out of the Mrs showing up in something different every couple of months but they're good guys and won't muck you round. I will put Rex Price a close second for LOL's though - friend took a VR4 in, it literally bellied on the way out the door, they a) helped it out and let the WOF pass and b) called the workshop guys over to "check out this flash adjustable suspension" in it.

Jebus Attempted to kill it last night - hit a massive puddle of water - I literally thought it was just asphalt shining under the rain - nope enough to feel like I hit the brakes @ 60kph, thanks quakechurch 5 sec later stutter stutter miss miss "oh crap" - my air intake is straight in the inner guard, must have injested just enough to make it pack a tanty. No harm done but had me worried. Oh and put worlds loudest BOV on it - one of those RFL things with the trumpet sticking out the bonnet scoop hahaha

If you have a 3" exhaust and a 40mm sik azz w/g pipe you have 3inch + 40mm whatever that is in area of exhaust volume to use If you plumb the wastegate in you now have the same volume of gas trying to fit through a smaller pipe I have seen cars gain power going from plumbed in to being vented, with no other changes whatsoever - I worked at a dyno tuners for a bit not just internet heresay. You're effectively giving the car more exhaust to work with exactly when it needs it, if you're on boost you want as little backpressure in the pipe as possible, it is "stifling" the turbo if there is any post-turbo. If the exhaust is already restricting power, then plumbing gate in will make problem worse. I can't see how plumbing in would make more power - but who knows, can't argue with what people find (as above). If the exhaust is sufficient for the power level you're making, then plumbing in or not wouldn't make as much of a change. Big problem I guess is the placebo effect - more or less psi may not mean more or less power (as in, 20psi on a more restricted setup may make less than for arguments sake 18 on an opened up one) - plus the noise really can make a car seem quicker An exhaust leak on a turbo car only matters pre-turbo - the best for power (as in, outright power without getting into whats best for torque etc) is just to be open immediately after the turbo, nothing restricting it whatsoever - any backpressure at all is only something it has to work against

Just a thought Try forcing it to run parallel - like block the 2ndary BOV, open the ECV (undo the shaft running to it) and unplug the intercooler valve (it holds itself open) If problem persists, please see your doctor - this takes all the hoses & solenoids out of the picture - it'll pack a sad and throw a CEL eventually but it might help you diagnose things I would imagine the same symptoms from the intercooler valve being jammed shut, or the secondary BOV not closing up - like a massive boost leak could be happening also (you never know)

BG - 3-4k ish - BH 4-5k ish - BP Turbo upwards of 10k? Lot of money for a runabout, depends on what kms you're looking at though. Still see BG's selling for 6 and B4 shape for over 10 :-\

Two of them have been BH's - like early (rev A?) - other two were both BG GTB facelift, one auto, one manual. Just drove the current one (It's a novelty for me as wife has it all week) and the 2200rpm is a bit optimistic - it'll do it if I load it on the brakes a touch or do it in 5th - but anyway, they're nothing complicated. Disclaimer: I could well be wrong with this but I see a lot of stuff online I know is waaaaaay off the mark The way I look at things is to break it down a bit - the stuff in and around the secondary turbo on the drivers side is all soley about the switchover onto secondary. The regulation of exhaust gas to control boost is all done by the wastegate on the primary turbo. It's no different to (for arguments sake) a single wastegate on a TT inline motor. It's not done often but works just fine. The secondary WG on an early TT as I understand is purely an emergency overboost sort of thing and not actually functional(?). Out of the box most people find they run (ish) 11 and 14psi, or whatever your model does. Open the exhaust up or put a pod filter on or whatever, and you get (for arguments sake) 12 and 15. Now that's not what the system does by itself - the factory boost control solenoid / ecu is running making you higher psi in "twin" mode on purpose. The more you free up the breathing, the more boost you run. As the ECU isn't doing this in a closed loop fashion, it isn't saying "I am meant to run 15psi and will try to" - it's just saying "I am at full throttle and therefore will pulse this fast" and the guys who set this up knew that "Pulse this fast = make this much boost". So.... If you take the factory setup out of the loop, just run a hose from the little pipe on the turbo, to the wastegate, you will get actuator pressure - in the case of my car, that means 9psi primary, 9psi secondary, and being overtaken by hondas. If you introduce a bleed valve here, I have never experienced any spiking, overboosting, or discrepancy in what I ask for. On some cars, for sure, but I've never had a problem with a TT legacy at least. No noticable difference between hot or cold weather - that said I don't have it turned up to the point the car is on the ragged edge of "safe" to start with. I can ask it for 12psi on both, 20psi on both, or if I used something RPM triggered I could ask for 9psi on one and 20psi on both - or vice versa. The key thing I think is that half the problem stems from people trying to use a bleed valve in conjunction with the factory boost control system, it's never going to work quite right, same goes for basically any turbo car with an electronic boost control solenoid. If you want electronic boost control so be it - chuck the solenoid for it in the same place, but as has been said it can be a mission (but do-able) to set it up right as closed-loop systems will throw a wobbly at the switchover point, and open loop (non-feedback) electronic controllers are in my opinion at least a waste of cash. I have had wicked results from using a pneumatic relief valve (like a valve which blocks pressure to the wastegate until it "pops" open at given PSI) and also from using a boost activated switch attached to a factory boost control solenoid, basically an in-cabin version of the relief valve. Like I said - I might be wrong about it, but it has always worked just fine for me - I think a lot of the time the TT setup just gets put in the "too hard" basket and I've seen some retarded advice online which muddies the water even more. End of the day the boost control system in these cars is absolutely nothing different to any other. The switchover side of things and the dead spot don't help things - but if you leave them out of the picture, it becomes a lot simpler to look at.

I'll throw in a quick "What" here All 4 of my GTB's I've done the same way - whipping the factory boost control out outright, running a bleed valve or relief valve inline from primary turbo boost-signal point to the WG itself, done - that is all, treat it like any other turbo car just with a weirdo flat spot in the middle. On all 4 is has had the same result of XX psi on primary and the same on secondary. The internet might say different - I've seen some creative setups before - but for me, this has worked 100% fine every time. My BH right now I am using a super high tech plastic bleed valve, it makes 15psi by 2200 in 4th, does not spike over that, and then holds it rock steady on secondary to the red bits on the tacho. I was going to muck around with a relief valve or an electronic boost sensing switch but haven't seen any need for it, this is working as well as I'd need it to. Not trying to stir or anything - more just my experience with them, I'm sure others have had different.

Yeah there's a place called Zena Racing which makes them, they do a silicone intake as well (like the under-manifold one), just I don't see $200 value in them. Seen a few of the ozliberty guys use them on the B4 but can't find much other than "they look pretty"

That engine bay is amazing. I stuck a BOV on mine, felt so proud till wifey said it makes the car sound stupid making cheep cheep noises at everyone hahaha

Hey Seen a couple people mention about replacing the TT turbo --> IC hoses with silicon smooth ones instead, makes sense to as corrugated shiz can't be flash - no point forking out for mega $$ samco ones but has anyone tried it and found it worthwhile changing them? To be fair it's not like it's exactly pricey for a couple of 2" bends I guess

Yeah just an indicator. They aren't really any better or worse than anything else comparable to be fair. Just look for normal subaru stuff to go wrong - for a daily they're pretty good, not much else around *for the same money* that compares in my books.

Spend the extra and get a later model - the 98 - on goes for very similar money and is just that much nicer in general My GTB's have all gotten approx 450-500km to 55l gas mostly around town, all manuals.

Customised the cat converter - with a big pole through the centre of it. Yay backfires and faster boosty boosty Peered into the Trust muffler at the back, found the steel wool packing around it starting to come loose, pulled a strand of it, I now have a massive pile of steel wool and a muffler which does no muffling, oops

NZEFI can, don't know if they're selling it as such but definately has been done. Since yours is a rev-d it can be reflashed, and if nothing else they would be good for a second opinion on how the car is running - even just a quick run up on the dyno will show how it is performing compared to another one the same.

Fixed the motherfunkin high idle it's had since purchase, pipe from BOV to hose 10 also went to intake?? BOV works now too. Turns out it also has drastically changed the boost too, heroo 1.5 bar on the primary hahaha *turns down boost*

Don't touch it If they're dense enough to run with no filter (if they had half a brain they'd spend $20 on one just to look good to sell it) who knows how it's been treated, you'd be buying a potential time bomb

If you didn't get the brakes glowing you were going too slow And also you were then not retarded, mate had the pedal go to the floor and used a hill instead once Oh the fond memories Can still use summt road from sth side up until just before the gondola, blocked off @ top of rapaki track. That said if anyone tries to hit me with some crazy touge antics I'll hiff rocks when they come back the other way hahaha

Yeah turbos don't just nuke themselves without something forcing them into it. I bought a car cheap where someone had done literally this - it nuked a turbo, they just swapped the cartridge and front cover (rear turbo on a legnum, can't blame them as it's a pig of a place to get at) - that turbo lasted a fortnight and died, so I got the car dirt cheap when they gave up. Oil feed was literally choked up with burnt oil, must have been getting a dribble through - just - but not enough to do the job. If your turbo is eating things it might pay to whip the intercooler off and see if it's caught any bits of it on the way through, might give you an insight.

Stupid car, I thought subys are meant to be lego haha. Ok - so for the springs, I can only use ones meant for BE/BH, right? (Not struts, just the springs) - though D-Style you mentioned BP/BL bits? Exhaust I'll just do the home de-cat procedure for now, also known as getting out my bashing pole - already has a massive muff so that should free up 200k's worth of blockage for now till I can scam a welder from somewhere

Can we even get to that spot anymore? I go running round summit rd most weekends / the odd weekday and have so far only been almost nailed by some xtreme drift0r once Luckily I can hear wastegate over my headphones