Marky

Quick question What's the cheapest semi capable windows tablet I can get - ideally a small one - for putting in-car Want it purely to leave in the car permanently for data display / general mucking about using romraider, my "good" laptop is huge and quite unwieldy I have no interest in trying to get maps and the stereo etc all working through it Also must have the ability to have a "DANGER TO MANIFOLD" desktop background image

You literally can't get it wrong, its a single threaded rod you can make longer or shorter by turning it. Worst part of the job is getting the heat shields out the way Easy as to get it right - just loosen the locking nuts, wind it out, start the car, it'll sound like arse, then as you wind it in the flapper will start to rattle and you'll hear the exhaust change to the dubdubdub noise. Then once the rattle stops, go maybe one or two turns more, lock it in place, please see your doctor if pain persists

So I did some tinkering this weekend and figured I'd add to this, also bumping it to motivate myself to finish/edit the first post So there's a thing you can do with the ECV valve to make it pre-spool in a self-regulating sort of way, the basic idea of it is taking away the ECU control of the positive side of it - the computer still controls the negative pressure end of it, which does 80% of the "pulling" it open. It's an idea I read online here http://www.subyclub.com/topic/8678-tt-no-boosthelp/page-3 , which I tried, it works, and added to it cause I have too much spare time. So what you can do is get a little creative with this. Takes a bit of trial and error to get it just right, but it accompanied with Ross's hose restrictor stuff nets you a really nicely driving car. Theory: The ECV is pulled open by the ecu primarily, using the big negative pressure tank in the passengers' side guard. There is a positive pressure side too, but it is just used to assist so to speak. So what you do is take the little hose to the top of the ECV, unplug it from the big box of bullsh!t (BBoB) on the left, and instead give it a positive feed from... anywhere. Tee it off your BOV or boost gauge line would work fine. Added benifit there is it gets negative pressure on throttle off, helping pull it shut in a hurry and reducing time spent getting back on primary only if you shift in the dead zone. Now what you'll find is you lose a bit of primary spool, and you'll hear the exhaust note change with boost... What's happening is the valve is getting pushed open a bit, not all the way but a bit, when you have the primary awake - it's sending some flow through the secondary now too though. You need to fiddle with the ECV rod underneath a bit to try to balance the pre-spool just right, when it's right you get a much better transition to twin mode and much more linear power, especially that first couple times you wake up the secondary from cold(ish). The OTHER way to do it, which I prefer and tried, is to do exactly all the above, but put inline to it a pressure activated solenoid (a stock subaru boost control solenoid, wired in series to a $5 pressure switch will do it). Set to say 5, or 8psi, you now have all the part-throttle go you always do, BUT if you ask for full boost it'll start the pre spool. Hell if you wanted to you could even put that on a switch to let you choose if you want it killed off (say if you're towing, or just like that adjustability). With the top port left vented, so inactive, the difference in how it changes over is almost impossible to pick up - but WITH the above fiddling applied it can be quite useful. Better living everybody

What he means is get a 3 port solenoid to replace the factory one If you have a V7 onwards WRX, you can tune the factory computer to control boost and it'll work as well as, if not better than any aftermarket controller

Yeah what he said It's obviously not working, for whatever reason. Just need to work out that reason - what have you done so far, it could be a faulty unit or a faulty user

The chances of your car going better with a smaller exhaust are slim to none More likely is it now *sounds* faster

Gladly, haha. I break it you bought it? Today it got 4 pots, converted semi permanently to parallel and I half un-boganed it Now it's drift spec ow, least till tomorrow when I do the back wheels too haha

Edge: aesthetic only Sound vs brand: Yes adrenalin R is a good (albiet expensive) brand Does your exhaust have any resonators, and what brand is the muffler now? Some mufflers do next to nothing for sound reduction so anything might be an improvement

Not so much what I did to my car (glared at it) - had the odd situation of having pretty much one of each BP/BL legacy motor combo in at work all at once and having cause to drive the lot 1 each man & auto turbo, a 3l outback auto and one each of a man & auto b-sport 2.0 To be fair the difference in trim and how they all drive they'd may as well be different models altogether, it's quite weird

Love the Mr Murch comment - "Wow that's impressive. So impressive it's almost unbelievable" haha Does say the ratio is 5.1something on the chart, seems odd That said it's still got many powerses, no matter how you look at it. If it's 600 or 1000 it's still facemelty fast

Which AA did they get it appraised at? I'd be hitting them up with a "please explain" too For all we know they've swapped the tyres with another on the yard between the appraisal and you getting it. I've seen far shadier practises than that so it's plausible "Technically" the car was and is wofable now In practise it's pretty average conduct

Don't waste your money on that dude, just spray your current ones red if you want some bling

Basically "Not illegal NOW, but they're about to be" Maybe shouldn't have bought that car

Your pipe clamp is crooked 2/10 do better in future Does have me rethinking where my piping goes though, mine takes the traditional long-ass route through the front wing and right around, things are pretty tight for space My vote goes to powdercoating (or even just painting) the pipes in crinkle black or red, same as how that intake pipe is done. Makes things look factory fitted, or at least not DIY'ed

You're misunderstanding the argument 98 octane is 98 octane, noone is arguing that it is preferable to run the best available. It almost always works out to be the best for economy (in terms of distance per $ spent) as well as safety/power. However the Gull fuel uses a 10% blend of ethanol through it, which is the point of difference to the other NZ brands Upsides: Runs cooler, meaning more power is possible through increased knock resistance. Bit cheaper per L too (I paid 1.71 this morning for 98 from memory). Downsides: See above re possible corrosion - yet to hear of it in NZ mind you - and *slightly* worse economy. I and many others have found definite improvements in power over straight petrol 98, the mileage difference I've found to be negligible (and possibly negated altogether by the extra timing possible at cruise and light load) the corrosion part... Dunno, only been 6000kms on it. It's been so common to use overseas and I've never heard of it causing any actual problems, but feel free to correct me here Key thing as well is many cars can't see the ethanol content, and as it does need to run ever so slightly richer there is the possibility of them going lean, especially if it was a pinging half dead subaru to start with. Bosses KTM superbike gets a -very- slight miss at idle on it for example, but runs nicer everywhere else. E85 is a whole new kettle of fish in comparison, if it was commonly available countrywide I'd go that way in a heartbeat, this is just the very mild version of it.

Yes, it is important to concentrate on nuts, and not holding the main unit does make this easier Wait Unrelated news, swapped mine over to parallel for lols and curiositys sake (been a few mods since last time I tried it) - I think this might work well

Just grab another cluster, keep note of the kms yourself if worried - if nothing else using it for a week will confirm if the problem lies in your cluster or not Or just swap out the fuel level gauge part of it? I can't remember how dismantle-able a legacy cluster is, but I do know they only take about 2 mins to remove from the dash

Wut They shouldn't have been anywhere near the speedo workings to do steering rack boots, that's highly confusing Re the cat question - no, you'll be fine on your car

That's the main thing there ^^ Would it sell to get you into what you want - is there something else you do want? That said, it's a subaru, it's only going to devalue more and more swapz for RB no hondaz

Thats so awesome

Not really, considering the cars almost silent to begin with, you'd probably get a weird eggy smell from it too May be worth taking to a suby specialist with a scan tool to drive it under power/load, the fault should be relatively apparent then as opposed to trial by replacement The intermittent nature (you say it does gain power in surges?) suggest it could be metering related - airflow meter? - or spark related - coils?

Tried a few/many cars (helps I work with them all day) - but a ten min drive in a car is quite different to living with it I guess Considerations are a) wagon, b) has to go semi good or the potential to c) post 2000 No to a 3.0 legacy Tried all sorts, the ideal is an old S4 wagon (the 2.7TT kind) but they're few and far between, may settle for an allroad - they look kinda pimp with the flares color coded and late model rims, still can go like a cut cat, and they can be had for $cheapas Assuming the suspension hasn't fcked out

When they came out D2's got bagged by everyone for being cheap crap, much like rota wheels and a few other brands If you don't need the ability to adjust the height why bother getting height adjustment? Just adds cost On a stripped out wrx or a weekend racer civic then sure you can cope with a bumpy ride, personally I think it wrecks the point of buying a comfort spec legacy if you're going to just chuck harsh struts in it. May as well have bought a WRX and not had the weight penalty As for comfort / harshness it's all relative I guess. You might drive it and be like "this is mint as" - your old man might hop in a go "jesus this is terrible". How harsh the ride is does not translate to how well it handles remember. Depends on who uses the car I spose On the plus side, if you have any top heavy girl mates the results are hilarious

Drove all three of the cars I was considering for replacements (inside of my minimal budget at least) All three left me underwhelmed, which is a shame Maybe the old girl isn't so bad afterall (or I need to make more moneys)

Have you asked NZEFi if they kept a copy of your stock tune?