lachlan

so i just finished my vf26/ 27 ball bearing primary turbo . pretty easy really . cut a spacer out of 1mm alloy sheet and drill and tap 2 m5x.8 holes . . 3 of them line up already and im looking at it going this exhaust housing looks like a runt compared to the vf27 one . like this is **** . looks like one off a 1 liter diesel stationary engine . i like big housings on turbos . well i hate exhaust back pressure at any stage im aware all of this is a waste on a car with green afm and grey injectors lol . might fix that one day look inside the inlet ans its a p14 . google confirms this is right for a 26 . lame . so im eyeing up the spare vf27 p18 housing i have . thinkin the bolt pattern looks similar . one bolt is the same . one bolt is in fresh meat . one bolt is 30% in another hole . good enough for me and the entry needs port matching to the primary up pipe anyway . the up pipe is the sixe of that gasket hole next problem no waste gate in this housing . theres the castings but no flapper etc . so im pondering how much work it is to uninstall the flapper etc from the p14 housing and re install it in the blank p18 housing i turned this into this in about 1 minute flat . turns oout a vf14 has a p18 exhaust housing and already has a wastegate fkn chur cut the 2 useless bits off and started porting it . to be continued ... on another note . who can tell me anything about this . it fits in a lathed out vf26 backing plate . exducer diameter is bigger . inducer is the same and does anyone want it ? vf27 for comparison lastly i pulled apart a vf27 for a look . coz thats what im like . fk the bearings are tiny . got them all back in tho

In 5 years all this stuff will get in coz 20 years old . All the effort and value will fall out of it

Your gunna need morw details than that . Sounds like your goin about the hard way

So whats wrong with the centre diffs ?they bind up ?

Wondering if many people were interested in some bb primary turbos . As a upgrade or even better as a replacement for a worn out primary. All the primary turbos are ten years old now and have been on boost for atleast 50 % of the time the car was driven so . All of the bb secondary turbbos never get used . How often do you actually get your car on secondary . Less than 1%of driving And vf32 is a fkn rip off . People want 400+ on trade me . The a vf26/7 hybrid turbo is better in every way . The VF26/27 will easily out perform the VF32/33 combination significantly. The VF32 approx!! equats to the VF27. However the VF33 falls short of the VF26 due to: 1.smaller compressor wheel 2.P11 turbine compared to P14 of the VF26.(more restrictive/less run out) 3.VF26 has better exhaust flow (8 blade performance wheel therefore more run out Could lathe up a collar for the front if u wanted to put one in place of a 32 . Or just put a piece of silicon joiner over it Yea . Discuss

The 26 27 are bigger than the 32 33 anyway . You could just bolt a ball bearing 26 27 hybrid on for a primary . Is rev d the one where the primary turbo has a ten mm bigger inlet hose ? I had a blown 32 lined up to try do it but they threw it out after I hit buynow . Theres a 33 at pickapart atm

Yea I looked at rotating the comp housing and using the 27 front cover . Could easily block the hole for 2nd bov . The housing doesnt have lugs to mount waste gate on . The vf 13 and 14 front housings are made from the same casting and have 4 lugs for both wastegate positions

Bolted on a vf27 . Started on making another vf27 fit the other side aswell

Putting a feeler gauge Between the cam shaft and the lifter/shim . Not piston to valve etc. Also technically having the can open 2 thou earlier and higher isnot going to make a noticable effect on power

Jacking the back of the car up will tell you both these things in about 30 sec . Need car in nuetral with hand break off . Try spin a wheel . Does other wheel spin same direction ?lsd . Opposite direction or not move is open diff . Put a mark on the d shaft and a mark on a wheel . Turn the drive shaft around as many times as it takes to make the wheel do a full lap . 4 and nearly a half is 4.4 . Just past 4 is 4.1 . Just under 4 is 3.9

Bkr6e . Only like 6 buck each .

The cat temp light is literally only hooked to the ****ty probe in the exhaust . If that comes on with other things then you have something odd loom issues or the dash pkug is fkd or the battery is moving around and shorting out

So the call it off after they lose the car . Yea same diff

Pfft . U mean they lost it . The police never call off a chase . Unless the car crashes . Then the chase was coincidencentaly called off about 13 seconds before the crash

Hook a spring on the wastegate . Check the waste gate isnt stuck open ? Also suck on the hoses to both bovs and see if they hold vacuum . Seeing quite a few that have holed a diaphram

Who deemed the rings fine ? Was it run in very well? Valve stems are pretty easy to diognose . Hard cracked ****ty looking ones are fkd . It they are nice n rubbery they are fine . Yet to find a spring compressor worth using on a jap motor . Usually just cut up a piece of tube and then hook a loop of wire around sonethin and pull down with a lever etc

noone ever got called a dumb **** for asking advice . the only dumb ****s are the ones that refuse to listen

all (?) turbo timers have a off function . eg all the time it does nothing . then when u want it to go . u push the button on it and set a time and then turn the key off then off u go . only the really primitive ones in diggers and **** are hard wired . one thing id reccomend is buying a 2nd had jap one as opposed to a new no name chinky chonk one if you get real lucky you can find one with a plug in harness for your car . fkn lol at who ever said the ac cant keep the car cool for ten minutes in sunlight . so when you are driving the ac wont keep you cool for more than ten minutes either ?? on every jap car since for ever the ac has its own (or controll of a)radiator and condensor fan to turn on

Get one of those window cage thinga . Noone gunna steal a car with a dog in it . Most will run for ten minutes . Get 2 keys . Leave it running and lock the door . Put a chain through the wheel . Buy a ute Shave the dog . You have a valid point . Turbo timers in general are a fail on all points .

A made a joke B asked a relevant question C provided the information for op to answer own question D all of the above . You got a d for that one

What fuel is in and what is it tuned for ? Is the first and easiest thing to check . How qualified is your mechanis to know what detonation is ? If you trust his word then yes get it on a dyno $60 for a dyno run is a **** load cheaper than new pistons Turn the boost down and dont thrash it untill you fix both of these issues . Tbph this thread reads like a troll of a rfb page on face book . What is youe motor worth ?2k minimum . Right so dont be dumb, now go and buy a 200 alloy radiator off trade me and get someone whos competent at bleeding the coolong system to help u after u change it Fixing a radiator with kneedit is fine for paddock cars . And nothing else . Potentially as a get u home from middle of nowhere scenario .

Leave ur (brothers )socket on the nut and hit the socket with the bfh . The socket is so fkn hard it wont notice and u wont fk the nut

Side of the road . Yea go to pick a part .

What would u consider above average speakers out of the current crop . Have alpine cda887 head unit

Depends if your car is lhd or rhd