tebbyj

+1 earth straps to engine and chassis. Check Coolant temp sensor... maybe over enriching/ not enriching. Was the injector tested or replaced? Only other thing i can think of is a leaky head-gasket...

That was my thinking too. Must have been lost in translation somewhere..

Namely Hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel) and Carbon monoxide (partially burnt fuel) and converting them to C02. Figured this must have been the case, the JDM tune does still have a code for Cat inefficiency but maybe it has a higher threshold over USDM and EDM tunes. After all California has the hardest emissions regulations in the world. [quote name='boon said: I can tell you\'ve been all up\'n\'round the IWSTI or NASIOC Dunno what your talking about.. ;D

+1 check wiggle each plug, pull it off and push it back on firmly, sometimes they don\'t come all the way off and still fire but have a very weak spark.

That was my thinking to rear O2 sensor picking up unburnt fuel and thinking theres a problem..

Hitting them with a gas torch will clean them up, all spark plugs have a self cleaning function that comes in when they get hot enough. Be careful not to over heat. After that file the electrode flat (if needed) and re-gap. I find the easiest way is to let them sit in petrol for half an hour then wipe with a clean rag if you don\'t have a gas plant handy. Stay away from wire brushes, they create tiny scratches on the electrode and earth strap that can mess with the plug (apparently)

+1 We should form a national anti-theft ring and go all \'Gangster Squad\' on their ass.

Really? There seems to be heaps of stuff on the american and english suby site about changing the down pipe and getting all sorts of issues from just a CEL to rich running.. Does it have something to do with the USDM or EDM cars vs our (mainly) JDM cars?

Throwing any fault codes? By hard starting do you mean slow cranking or turns over lots before starting?

Yep coolant too. As well as Gearbox oil and diff oil.

haha thats the one!

+1 would be an awesome track cat though...

I was wondering the same thing so i asked him, apparently it will read codes and current data but he is unsure about the writing to ECU. Although he does say it can be used to make adjustments to ECU...

When driver selects cold a flap swings in the air vent and diverts air around the heater matrix rather than through it. A tap to the heater core is actually not overly common on modern cars. However: [quote name='Eight dollar said: Ahhh - indeed not needed for bleeding, but you need to know that the heater has bleed up and has flow (fan on low speed, heater on full hot- to use as an indicator for flow) This is true and forgot to put it in... Goes without saying i think

1) Jack up font of car 2) disconnect top rad hose from rad and fill block from here slowly 3) reconnect hose and fill through top tank slowly while squeezing top and bottom rad hoses 4) run engine with cap off filling when needed 5) hold car at around 2-2.5k rpm full top tank all the way up and put cap on 6) keep running engine and top up over flow as bubbles will come out of here now that cap is on Keep an eye on levels over next week or so. Has worked for me hundreds of times and no funnel is needed ;D

This being a Subaru forum i always wondered what happens when a tow truck tows you car incorrectly. A AWD Subaru must be towed with either all four wheels on the ground or all of the wheels off the ground to prevent damage to the center diff. From the manual: "CAUTION: Do not tow a vehicle with front or rear wheels on dolly or flat-bed truck. This may degrade viscous coupling..." Ie: You may need a new diff. Could you claim for this from the tow company if you have proof they towed incorrectly?

Has the gas milage of one too....

Has happened to me on three cars now!! those stupid plugs. At least you know what to look for lol

Did you use the correct spark plugs (NGK PFR6G or BKR6EIX iridiums) also double check all the coils are plugged in correctly as the connectors from the loom to the coils have a habit of breaking and coming loose. (has happened to me on 2 of these GTBs) Is it showing any codes? Possible AFM failure could cause this but it would (in theory) throw a CEL.

Could be a high resistance fault on the starter or earth line, spray your starter with CRC (a good dosage to allow it to soak in) check the clean the earth line from the battery to the chassis. If possible check the amperage draw to the starter with an amp clamp, if excessive current is drawn (more than 180A from memory but don\'t quote me on that) it could indicate a starter fault. Another trick is hit the starter with a hammer gently and it should free it up if stuck.

Ignitor possibly? If not possibly wiring for injectors?

This is a very common problem on Legacy\'s of this era, as muss said there a fuel lines that go under the intake manifold. from memory some of the lines were made from different material so shield from heat and this caused different expansion and contraction rates (hence in can mainly only be smelt when cold) in these lines compared to the standard ones which can cause minor leaks at joins. As far as i\'m aware no fires or anything have resulted.... All you have to do is search legacy fuel smell on google and you get hundreds of million results.

Id say the guy running the orange, he should have seen you in the intersection and stopped to let you go. Although you shouldn\'t have entered the intersection before you exit was clear.... Simple answer.. don\'t crash ;D

Got mine from armstrong in the hutt, was about $25 for the turbo to downpipe from memory.

Not the greatest in my opinion, They aren\'t to bad in the dry apart from being abit noisy. BUT in the wet they are hilarious!! rubbish at gripping anything when raining, even the special grit stuff the council are obsessed with putting on sharp turns at the moment. I had Nexens on my old car which were really good, slightly soft sidewalls and were quite a soft compound but apart from that couldn\'t fault them.