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They should... haha if you got one who took his job seriously and knew their shit then should know strait away if not straight after plugging in the scan tool and watching live data. The amount of mechanics i\'ve seen cut corners and miss blatant things is scary.... When me (a first year apprentice at the time) can work into a main Subaru dealer ship and pick up a fault straight away that the supposed professional AND the foreman missed you know somethings not right.

I filled up the other day (with 28c off AA Smart fuel ;D ) so far have done 65ks and the needle has just hit the full marker on the scale haha

Try checking the actual motor that moves the flap in the air ducting, attack it with CRC. In fact just attack every motor and connection (electrical or mechanical) with CRC. When you replace the bulb hit the board behind the knob with CRC just let it dry before powering it up. Might help free things up behind there.

Didnt do it when I was working a the local suby dealership.. Is it just the legacies effected by this problem?

Haha my old WRX used to do that. Just used to put up with it Cold up to halfway then you have 1 click of mild warmth then the next click is full hot. Maybe try getting under the dash and lubing the connections and motors for the air system get them moving a bit more freely.

The 4 pots need the bigger 296mm rotors ive only got 277mm rotors, Good job by Subaru there, make a car bigger, heavier and with more power but leave the brakes alone. : Will keep an eye out for a good cheap set.

Cheapest set of 4 pots i can find is $300 but after the massive brake fade i got the other day, seems like a valid upgrade. Slotted rotors as well while i\'m at it?

On the positive battery terminal of all things...

What would be a cheap bolt on upgrade for brakes on a 2001 GGA 20k hatchback? Im pretty sure its only got 277mm disks on the front so would 296mm slotted disks and calipers off a GTB make any improvement an just bolt on?

As i said earlier, seems easy enough, but will probably turn into a mission. Having a 260kph speedo doesn\'t that give a big clue to it being NZ new, which means even IF the compression ratio was similar, there would need to be some wiring changes. Maybe an easier way to attack it is converting WRX hatch to WRX sedan ECU. Ie: same 205kw as STI but less aggressive tuning involved. Or is there still compression ratio discrepancies between sedan and hatchback in straight WRX form?

GF8s had the same set up as the foz from the time Purple AFM, td04 and grey injectors. No such thing as 8s ECU i would think you have an 88 (or 8z if automatic) ECU as its OBD 2 compliant being an 98 model car, The STI version of this is the 75. Could use 1s or 6s but may (or may not) require wiring changes and car would no longer be OBD 2 compliant.

Thats not very nice :\'( But I see your point....

Ive done it, and yes its as simple as unbolting/unplugging everything lol no wiring needed There you go! Go for it! Although if you look at the chassis number it looks like it might be the oddball EJ205: http://pacificcoastjdm.com/review/subaru/imprezagc8/stats

I was thinking about doing this on my V3 GF8 before it got stolen haha I found out that all you needed was Orange AFM, Yellow Injectors, Vf23 or similar and ECU from the corresponding STI. Plus maybe some minor wiring changes. You should have the EJ20G which has stood up to 260-275hp on previous models so it should be fine. Here is a guide to Subaru ECUs so you can work out which ECU you need: http://sdrv.ms/12WGLVE Of course this is all in theory and in practice its probably going to be a small mission..

Some people say 6months ish some say 2 years (from american forums) so its just one of those things. Although knowing NZ roads id say about 10 minutes.

Glad to see you got it sorted after all that... input haha

Also you could try reverse flushing radiator and heater core, get some more water flow happening.

Check all fuse\'s anyway, Does the car start and run fine from cold? Thinking Coolant temp sensor reading max all the time.

B4 has a point, bleeding these systems can be a bitch. If an air lock was left in the system it would cause overheating. To test head gasket basics tests are, water in oil or vise versa, bubbles coming out of overflow bottle. if you want to get more serious garages will do a TK test to test for combustion gases in coolant, also a compression test and cylinder leak down test, of which both will give you a definite answer.

Sorry mate might be time to do some HG tests, aka TK test. Does it seem to use coolant? is there water in the oil?

I dont think there is an easy way of doing it with the newer models. Need a scanner. Also check the AFM they have a tendency of breaking down and not working properly, which can cause a rough idle.

Check your basics first, plugs, coils, fuel filters. Get it checked for fault codes. I had a problem similar to this in an old BG5 legacy and it ended up being an O2 sensor spiking and making the ECU do crazy fueling. Which rings true because Cat converters heat up trying to deal with extra un-burnt/partially burnt fuel being pumped through them.

I don\'t know of all the wires off by heart but there will be at least one constant and the others. check for constant volts in then volts out from each wire with switch, or measure resistance across the switch itself in all positions to see if theres a short in it. Could be an alarm problem, within the immobilizer ignition relay, or even alarm wiring.

Which comes back as starter switch or circuit. Pull the plastic covers off and get your multi meter, see if the switch has continuity.

Had this happen on an old honda accord and it was the ignition switch. Just something to check.