sultan

wired in and final installed wing. installed bonnet scoop. installed 1x bonnet pin, ran out of time to do the other one oh, and after 7 years of ownership, sold it.

Same time as the trade for v8 sti thread and engine setup for sale thread. Sounds to me like a whole train of random thoughts that turned into threads really

Yeah, hideous

Do you mean in your power band? I would say power in lower rpm of the power band is most crucial the first half of the track where as second half is all about peak power. Increasing your peak power will probably yield the biggest result for you I wouldn\'t call a v7 a heavy car

First half of the track is best. Every .1 off 60ft is .2 off et, so yes its possible. Will be doing very well if you manage it with only 230

Looks like you\'re a pretty good driver. Excellent 60ft and 1/8th is very low given the low trap speed from car with not huge power, I\'m guessing at around 220/230kw?

300-350 what? Engine hp or wheel kw? Lower psi means bigger turbo to make power = worse driving experience. Building everything to an exact goal is what you want. Choose your power figure, choose your block type, select your maximum boost level to suit the block, select the turbo that will deliver that power at that psi, choose your pistons rods studs bolts etc to match, choose your cams and heads to get the most out of it, and you will have the best reliable drivable power The other approach is to assemble a couple of bits because you got a good deal, then try and put it all together around that, and hope that it works. I don\'t suggest that way!

You sleeve the ej25 because of its inferior block design being a necessity for any form of reliable power. It\'s a waste of money sleeving an ej20 on a street car because the block will not be the weak point on the car or engine

good for a 800hp+ drag car, not much use in a street car. the closed decks themselves are good enough for 600hp which i\'d consider the upper limits of a street car, as are ej257 or strengthened ej25

you will need to strengthen the block. especially if you\'re going for high boost or high rpm

i would have thought a restrictor would help make power at lower rpm, due to my mental schematic of what it would do. i\'ve never looked in to the actual dynamics though, so i\'ll trust what you say

yip, dyno plot up. that\'s the whole point of this thread

mmm, i\'m sure there\'s some people around in standard sti\'s that get worse economy than those asian guys with 1000hp gtr daily drivers

if you\'re talking @ 4wheel power, is that running 30+ psi @ 4k? i\'ve looked at more dyno plots of torque oriented setups than I care to admit, and the only things i\'ve seen close to that, use a restrictor and severly dies in power after that let alone climb some to 270kw.

i\'m not sure why the question is being asked. it won\'t be any different in standard driving situations, perhaps slightly worse due to worse control of the injectors at low duty cycles and a worse spray pattern. when you\'re on boost, of course it will use more. but if that\'s an issue, i don\'t see why you would own a turbo at all, let alone modify one for more power output? if you\'re the kind of driver that pushes to redline all over the place, it may make a noticable difference, but if you drive mildly sensibly with occasional bursts, i doubt you\'ll see much more use

Spent two hours looking in to why it wasn\'t starting. Finally found one of the connectors to the ignition barrel had failed on the inside. Was frustrating as all hell with everything looking perfect but no power going to important bits. Thought it was the alarm at first

Massive downgrade over factory wing.

I have a 1980s American guitar with that paint job from factory. It is cool. The scoop is not. Sorry. Paint it white while you\'re painting the bonnet white too! ;D

i don\'t think an air filter is a bottle neck on any turbo street car. people have done dyno runs back to back filter vs no filter, with no difference

carjam doesn\'t make mistakes, it just spits out what\'s in the system. the idiots that comply and register cars make mistakes though. both of my cars have several mistakes in the system and most of the other cars i\'ve owned have had some sort of retarded thing on them i.e, they listed my pontiac with a 5.7l engine instead of 6.4l, they wrote down the miles as 640,000 instead of 64,000, they registered my wrx as an sti and it\'s not, one of my previous truenos was a levin, even my mum\'s 3.6L holden was listed as the previous year\'s 3.8 model. the guys that do it all are complete morons. not that i imagine that is what has happened in this case

i\'ve read only the last page of this thread and it\'s made me decide that my next daily driver is going to be a toyota. it won\'t care about: a) what grade oil you use b) how often you change it c) if there is even any in it

by that do you mean bolting it on and slamming it down? what an abysmal job. i\'m all for doing out of it custom stuff but that\'s just terrible. he could have at least cut the bit off over hanging the gaurd so that it follows the lines of the gaurd and can sit in properly, and reshaped the bit that meets the front grill, let alone doing something about the curve of v8 headlight area. with an angle grinder and fiberglass i reckon i could make that look tidy. but why would you want to in the first place, i\'ve seen identical ones made specifically for gc8. plus it looks terrible. either scoop, or vents...not both!

i have an app on my phone that allows me to "share" a picture straight to my domain on my web server via ftp. as long as i rename the picture first to something i can easily remember, as i already know the first part of the link, it works mint

continued working on front bumper. found need to reglass more of it. started rewiring from window mounted high stop light to spoiler mounted stop light, and ended up removing the rear window wiper system instead??

$5 says they started out with a perfectly fine car, took to it with a hammer and scotchbrite