sultan

you'll get a better result that will be a lot safer with proper tuning. depends how much you value your motor. for some people it's cheaper and easier for them to replace a motor if it goes wrong, than it is to spend money on a proper ecu and tune

what turbo is this? is it running low boost (sub 20psi) perhaps? seems a bit lazy off boost and just a lil slow to build power, but when it does, you're right, it has a good power band. has there been any cam/head work? seems it may have had an adverse affect to power building in the lower/mid if so. for reference, a vf22 on std heads gives an extra 20-30kw before 4000rpm for roughly the same peak

voluntary liquidation. which is a shame. i think they decided the amount of work they put in wasn't worth the return

any panelbeater supply shop. urethane is a panelbeater's best friend

use 95 and sensible driving as a last resort.

finding 98 shouldn't be too bad, just fill up all the way when you visit the major centres. if you have to run it on 95/96, keep it off boost and you'll be fine. then drive it down as low as you can before filling it all the way up again with the good stuff

listed both of mine on trademe

Drain the skylines engine oil at 4am

you have a porno name! awesome!!!!

Yeah. But strangely there's always heaps of missing ones

yeah as long as the dynos are up. keen to see some more big power dynos

speaking of places, funky's needs to be removed, 1) it no longer has a motor, 2) no proof it's actually been on a dyno ;-D

if you're interested in performance, why did you buy the non-turbo? I can guarantee every dollar you spend trying to make it go faster, would be 3 times more economically invested in upgrading to a turbo model as mentioned by fozze, there's no reason why it can't corner well though

Wonder if a high speed electronically controlled variable restrictor would work.

That's awesome torque on the first one. Its a shame it doesn't hold though. But i guess that's by design

As part of the process the car will be driven on a road around corners, there are things it needs to do and things it needs to not do. My car is certed at around 80mm chassis, but thats because it passed the handling test

what do you mean laggier? surely not as in power threshold. that car makes the same as my 2.5 setup, 180kw at 4000rpm, which is extremely early, a lot better than any stock car. in fact dyno plots are few and far between to find more power than that at 4k. you must be meaning 3500 and under which i suppose is a little down, but gee, pretty responsive for 340kw, even with a 2.5. i'd love to know what was done as far as headwork, and details of the turbo setup but it looks like you don't want to share that info. well done Sorry I Get used to dealing with more response rally/ tarmac cars which start making good power from 3000rpm, hence this is alot laggier than them but takes over over 5000rpm Might try and dig out a dyno sheet later to show you what I mean. yeah that would be awesome, that's the sort of thing i like to drive. Mine makes 120kw at 3k - what's the most you've seen at around that rpm?

what do you mean laggier? surely not as in power threshold. that car makes the same as my 2.5 setup, 180kw at 4000rpm, which is extremely early, a lot better than any stock car. in fact dyno plots are few and far between to find more power than that at 4k. you must be meaning 3500 and under which i suppose is a little down, but gee, pretty responsive for 340kw, even with a 2.5. i'd love to know what was done as far as headwork, and details of the turbo setup but it looks like you don't want to share that info. well done

a thermostat is a must if it's ever being driven on the street. you need an inline one too if you're using filter relocation kit. mine is permacool brand, came from USA, dunno if they can be sourced locally

I have a factory td05 actuator and i run 23psi. Closed loop boost control via link g4. Good Boost control is what you need to control boost well.

The only thing that is really relevant is your usage. The poor car is living its life on a cold engine. That's the down side of living so close to work. Permanently driving around in a state of engine warm up doesn't surprise me of your consumption. I am in the same boat. My commodore gets 7-8L/100km on open road but i average 22+ driving only 3km to work and then back

If the Achilles is anything like triangles which i had on my last commodore, ill definitely change them. Dangerous in the wet in a heavy rwd car with torque. But if other than that, I don't require much for the clubby, i just drive it to work so didn't want to spend much. have good tyres on the rex for having fun with. And btw hatesevo, i wouldn't comment on my means if i were you. I pay more in tax p/a than you have ever "earnt" in your life.

New wheels and tyres for the clubsport. 19" 8/9" staggered brand new from supplier with warranty, 235/35/19s achilles atr for under 1200. Not the greatest tyres in the world but not the worst!

i have an oil cooler on my hybrid 2.5 even though it will never see the track, seeing as they naturally run warmer than normal motors. i have a permacool inline rather than sandwich plate based thermostat so i can also run a remote mounted oil filter and gauge senders. it allows 10% flow when closed, to keep pressure in the cooler and prevent air bubbles. i also read all that crap about -8 so went with -10

are you the dude who used to have the massive chosen few stickers down the side?