B4_685

Hey guys - just did rear pads in my B4 as a one-man-bleed - made up a little bleeding kit using an old glass jar, some 6mm hose from bunnings and a bit of patience.. Worked a charm. New DOT-4 fluid was green in colour compared to the milky brown old fluid. How-to-bleed-one-man-style (B4): 1) Used a turkey baster to draw out most of the old fluid from the master cylinder. Below about half way you have to get creative as there are obstructions and tanks in the reservior - I used a length of plastic tube to syphon fluid out as the baster cant get all the way to the bottom of the chamber. 2) Refill the master cylinder with clean fluid. 3) Add some brake fluid to bleeder jar; enough to immerse end of plastic tube (I zippied a bolt on the end to keep it on the bottom) 4) attach other end of tube to bleeder screw and loosen. 5) Pump brake pedal 8-10 times slowly - checking reservoir hasn\'t dropped too low - top off if required. 6) Check line regularly - when fluid changes colour (or runs clear if you are using a clear fluid) and there are no bubbles in the line, close bleeder screw and you\'re done! * If you arent getting much flow from the caliper, loosen the bleeder a little more. Be careful not to loosen too much or air will be admitted to caliper on \'Up\' stroke of pedal. * Be very careful with fluid as it is highly corrosive to painted surfaces! - Oh and dispose of it carefully - it can cause fires if mixed with some household chemicals.... * Someone mentioned that you shouldnt go all the way to the floor when depressing the pedal in case you damage the master cylinder seals. Im not sure how accurate this is, however logic dictates that you don\'t normally use the full travel of the pedal, and so the rest of the shaft/cylinder could have corrosion/contamination which could in theory damage the piston seals. (I don\'t imagine this would be a big problem but hey, better to be conservative right?) Oh and have a read of the manufacturers bedding in procedure for their brakes - Bendix have instructions on their website for these pads I picked up from Super Cheap Auto. Run up to 50 and brake moderately-firmly to walking pace then drive for a wee while. Repeat 8 times allowing pads to cool slightly between applications. I took a drive around the block and jumped on the anchors as described above. I know it\'ll take a few moderate runs to get them to bed - anyone else got a \'tried and true\' technique they can share? Cheers Marcus

Hey mate, I know this thread is long dead, but do you have to remove the manifold to get to the coolant sensor? Just looking at the pic there, looks like it\'d be pretty snug to try and get a wrench in there....

Dacerx - its no biggie - just curious as to how easiest to get the rear seats out to get at the cover

Anyone done an RSK B4 pump recently?

Used contact cleaner on my B4 AFM with no issues

Thanks Marky. Thankfully Japanese owner replaced all hoses with silicone ones before I bought it. Cheers for the insight

Thanks mate - emailed Stu - he reckons could be the sensor and will check the code for me next week

Hey guys - Have a 2001 RSK B4 - same issue with cold start in the morning - Until coolant temp gets to around 60 degrees, it stumbles when you accelerate. Only recently been getting an intermittent CEL so going to change knock sensor - anyone had any issues pulling off the intercooler? The two turbo setup seems to have a s#*%load of hoses/connections going everywhere! Will see if new knock sensor doesnt fix it, next will be coolant sensor...

Hey Mate, Thanks for the info - will give you a call if I need some work done - Marcus

Oh and BTW - probably mentioned before but be VERY careful taking the Idle Air Control Solenoid Valve (IASCV) off - the 2 Phillips screws are MEGA tight - I had to spray it with CRC, use a big Flat Head screw driver to remove them - also, used a hammer and phillips to tap the head of one of the screws cos it was seized. The screws are soft too - so use the right size screwdriver!! Take it off when the engine is cold and the coolant system is depressurized or you will end up with fluid in your manifold. Sorry bout the crap Iphone3 camera - you can see the 2 screws to the left of the pic. Here's the stock BOV back in place too.. 2001 RSK EJ208 B4 Legacy

Pulled off IACSV to clean it as I suspected it was causing my engine to surge during warmup. Pulled valve off BEFORE reading posts on the forum....bad idea as the gasket is IMPOSSIBLE to get back in once you've removed it.... Anyway, long story short - found one in AKL for around 25 bucks from Winger Subaru in East Tamaki. Running old gasket with slight vacuum leak - but coolant side is still intact. Car runs better when cold now - think it's fixed the problem but generated another! Pics of the valve - cleaned it with Contact Cleaner - it was full of gunk (Black tarry sticky crap from manifold) Here's a pic of the old AVO Bypass/Blow Off valve next to the factory one I reinstalled (AVO diaphragm punctured)