marc

Dawns? wasnt it an Accord? they are almost identical but thought id clarify? Almost had my car stolen from the same place a couple years back.... still at it, doubt they have been caught yet.. , Should do a GPS'd dummy car ;D

There was a thread about them on here somewhere from memory... (try have a search) Ive used them on other peoples cars anyway and havent had any issues, Just dont overlighten the bottom donut flange & they sit quite low so not ideal for super low car... other then that sweet. Have quite a nice tone with bit of boxer down low and mid range but more one tone up top. Value for money def not bad as you cant get anything else new for under 500 ish that I know of and thats less then half!!! All day you get what you pay for but not a bad little upgrade I say

Yep all good, heres one trademe but -6 I thnk so abit bigger, duno if he does -4 but both bits can be had for around $14 and then sum1 to give it a quick tig to your piping and will look a million bux and never leak etc ;D http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/radiators-cooling-systems/auction-429066605.htm

bout $5 bux then u can get whatever angle u want from them (expensive speed flow) or cheep off trademe. The push lock fitting work all good with vac hose. All the bits look big in the pics but -4 is like typical bov vac hoise size...

I just bought a dash 4 alloy weld on fitting threded fitting then a dash 4 whatever degree bend or a stright. Cost a few dollars (not much) but s the proper way ta do it if ya ask me . GSS sells the fittings btw

yep looking at that makes me miss my old one already

yeah weld in a couple reso's underneeth. Louvered ones will quietn it the most but not so great for flow. Wouldnt worry too much bout using louvered ones in somthing pretty standard tho

Yeah heard that before, 5 years is not 100% necessary if you ask me but hey I wont "argue with the book" lol :

@ Matthewscl. Youl have to do yourself at your cost before what it states in your policy (95K kms or whatever) or itl void your claim validity if it snaps due to not being replaced aka car not maintained properly etc Dont know why your mechanic/workshop suggestd it should have been done in 2009 when its only at 77kms and its not a 20yr old vehicle lol... Im sure some1 can clarify this further for you tho . Thats just my understanding of how 95% of mechanical warrantys work..

rears are 4" from experence bro unless yours has magical doors

They do have AVCS and quite a few come with 2 pot fronts brakes and 1 pot rear. Some got the earlyr type STI brakes as mentioned above but must have been a factory option or similar as ive seen less with the 4pot/2pot combo.. as for the rest is correct and yep suposidly 184kw aka 246hp

Convert to top feed rails and run the 565cc's if you want the best out of a possum link drivability and power wise at the same time. The 440cc's will run out of fuel at 210wkw ish if you plan to keep the AFR's safe. 565cc's should do you about 230-235 safely. As pretty much mentioned by Koom, I ran HKS 740cc on a possum link and it was ok too. However my idle was a tad average but still went ok. Stopped at 230wkw as my tuner said it wasnt happy nor safe on any more boost/power due to the ECU's resolution nd no proper IAT sensor. Thats why I say 565's as youl still have good drivability etc and reach the safty limit of a possum link. All day people push more with possum links but I wouldnt want to be the one frying an expensive motor by pusing an ecu past what it was really intended for. Well thats just my input

Have seen that too but have aslo seen people run the throttle cable under IC piping or AFM pipe and cause it aswell. Doubt you would have damaged the cable as such but is it following the factory route still?

might have a super mint one but ill let you know. PM me if your keen and ill see where im at with it lol

Got a standard 97 STi muffler sitting round at home somewhere..

Yes thats about right (STI RA vs Type R)

$540 for that lol???? Yeah downpipe will give the most increse due to flow from removal of the cat converter and extra flow from a nice wastegate entry... not hitting a flat flange then making its way out the tail pipe!

its the Y pipe at the back thats killing you $ wise with the mid pipe, a early one will require quite alot of mod to fit nicely..

AHHH WAT???!! ill be there. cuda brought my subaru stickerd helmet for ya too lol. Im not keen enough to race tho as ive got a 6 hour trip to Gisborne tomoro for a few days :. just dodge the sticker month...easy lol. wouldnt condone that usualy but they hardly check and its not a public road event!

fitted new fuel pump, turned into a stupid mission that resulted doing the job twice! Watch out for them "turbine design" intank pumps, got caught off guard with their opps forgot to mention that in the original instruction manual lol Purge port on the Aeromotive Stealth series pumps gets blocked by the factory rubber grommet at the base and wala ran mint for 10mins then stopped and wouldnt make pressure = cut and fix cradle

put a hose stright from turbo comp housing outlet nipple to the actuator. then go for a drive if its boosts 7psi or there abouts actuator is mint and yr taps a dud. if it spikes then your actuator could be stuck or have a split diaphram (broken) lol.

How hot is the HID ballast after use? Ive got a bulb if you in auckland too...

they will work. Just v5/6 ones dont work. Only other thing to watch is the cam angle sensor wheel (magnetic inserts) but if its just the heads going into your car mint just use yours from v1-4/RS.

+1 caliper will prol be coming out and contacting the inner of the rim. Look if it has and scrapes or gouges out of the inside bit fo the mags/rims.

yep.