marc

my motto is black to the back and white to the front for remembering thoes plugs . so yep should be as above..

12" ones on mine so def good option there

Turbo can come off with up pipe attached . and as for heat wrap I did and yep was a fun : job lol. Ill try post a pic that I have some where. after a few hours I still couldnt get the wrap right tho lol. turned out ok but yea lol. Redline wrap is ok, Ive used it and havent had problems but yeah no heat wrap likes being ruffed up by shit you run over like mine .

yeah not bad, mine were genuine SYMS but id say thoes are based on them as they look exactly the same but 3x cheeper. Honda sonding hard lol but still liked them. Cant tell you on increase vs stock as my sti came from jap land with them already ;D. made good power on them and bottom end power was prity good. thats my light on them On yeah and watch for the slip joints on them as mentioned earlier. I tigd mine up so they didnt leak when i put thm on my built motor at 21+ psi

+1 using the thicker v3/4 sti steel gaskets will probably be the go but youl know when you get it apart and see the top of the pistons and take some measurements. However to let you sleep at night during the build ive mixed v4 STI heads with highr lift cams then v4 wrx onto a v6 wrx block that had the shallow dish pistons and had no issues and still running fine to date (year now) on stock ecu. (still measure tho as it could some how majicly be different then yeah bent valves would suck)

yeah lol thatd be rignt . trademe has thoes bolt on atmo BOV's for like $120 (auction number: 324088649). might not be the best but if your not wanting to spend heaps itd be a mint option. (mates got one on a B4 and a V7 STI and neither of them have had issues yet). I put a GFB one one the V8 STI and its decent az but cost me 350+!! Good luck

They bolt up fine. however if its non sti they have different shape top of piston compared to v4 wrx and sti. may play with comp ratio a lil but thats bout it. ichi will probably know exact details

on a v7? spring loaded hose clamp onto the bov pipe. it points 180deg opposite to the v5 factory one so not quite sure how its guna work lol. the v7 on ones dont bolt up that nice to the v5 chillers anyway. u shud just get a v5 bov and the loop hose off the top back into the return pipe

you mean diameter or? bout 30-32mm from memory.

flik me a txt and ill concider cumen and havn a jam spence lol. yeah No flywheel I take it hah..

If the v7 valve is a STD one you WILL have issues as they dont seat on decell or idle. If it was plumbd back into the intake youd be fine..

melted pistons do it too... (excessive blow by& looks like white smoke)

+1 I agree with that lol

8s dont come out without the light out from my experence lol!!

mine runs slightly bigger than the vf , yes the revs drop & rise but then settle if you get on & then off the gas in a hurry, but really only notice it in stop start traffic, Aucklands full of that s*** lol.. gets VERY anoying VERY fast lol. but yeah going buy yr pic least u basicly v1-v2 so get off lightly compared to my v6 and the v5 above lol :-\. My possum link fixd that fast and thought i was pumping till i tryd to run sum HKS 740cc's on it lol then off to Link to get a G4 it was ;D.

Prol not bad! sound good too lol

Yeah man the insert wond type r alot worse, yes like v5/v6. the v1-4 ones are yeah not too bad as like nissan ones. the v7-10 is not to bad again. The back spool/compressor surge has alot to do with why they die, even if your valve is pretty soft and can flow well (you cant have too soft or it wont close fast enough or sit partly open on idle) its still like the afm having a tornado between it and the turbo and even inside the afm itself when its really close. You may have noticed the v5/6 ones are so sensitive that even certain air filters= idle prblems let alone turbulance in the intake aswell lol. thats why if you coast of the gas ther hapier then if you WOT then clutch it and itl stall!! If YELLOESUB's sub is a v1-4,7-10 then hell be ok ish for the mean time just dont mount the AFM onto the turbo via a joiner lol. v5/6 your asking for drivability issues twisting turbo with stock afm and ecu especially if u use someting with a comp wheel and housing a little bigger then the little VF

exactly what wrx_lou said. However the v1-4 AFM's far less sensitive then the v5/6 afms. ect+ tune is the way to go!

if you can be bothered and the check valve is still in there?? if there was nothing going to it they may have just put a bug in its threaded hole into the mani. if its still there and theyve just bungd the pipe or somthing id put the T back on the breather port and run 1 hose to your catch tank and 1 hose to the check valve. If its completly gone just run the 1 big port hose str8 to the tank . btw yeh somtimes the early ones do have a few pipes off the breeather port as their intake pipe has like 50 ports for shit to go to lol. the later ones only have a 2 so you could use one of them to keep it tidy..

crank case breather, plumb it back into you intake pre turbo or into a catch tank if you have one. there is also a "T" or "Y" pipe that comes off it with a really short joiner and leads to the check valve under the throttle body. assumong thats still connected...?? (should be) then the other half of the T goes to what i said above..

nah if you hav a link it wont stall at all but will vent real easy and comtimes you can hear the valve leaking air on partial throttle. will still work fine at venting boost and sealing under accel but yeah not ideal and sound real gay too :-\ lol. And yes it is cus of the afm as its usualy ither metering too much air or not enough air depending on what your valves deciding to do lol. But since you have a link the map will be all good, doent matter what valve it was tuned for as its not really caring what the valves doing if that makes sense to ya. (ovcource partial open on throttle may effect your tune a TINY bit but basicly NOTHING. ;D

v5/6 ones are pretty shit at venting to atmo. unless you have a link you will have idle issues and stalling when you come off boost. This is because the factory valve is too soft an does not close fast enough nor FULLY close under high vacume (after boost ect). welcome to try its only one hose clamp then bung the intake pipe side with a 32mm bung from memory.

if its a plugin its ither G4 or possum is which G1 lol go look at the boost controll features in the sofware and its not like my G4 thats for sure lol. Even worse try doing it with the hand controller if it hasnt been upgraded by link to be PC tuneable..

plug in possum link? yes they can. pretty basic boost controll map in the possum links compard to later G4s ect but do work not bad if all the hoses are still in their correct places

$55 a head at Taylor automotive in aucks..