sobanoodle

touché

I bet there will be even more 5th gen owners even though a year or so ago everyone was hating them

... and it is time to have a break. appears after 2 hours of driving.

If I was to do it again I'd get pearl white, same as @Kiwiflyboy's - gorgeous colour and as been already said much easier to maintain. Cruise is definitely not plug'n'play, will require some additional wiring from ECU to brake switch. Not sure about SWC but hazard a guess that you might also need to run a few wires too. Spec-wise 5th gen GT is all over the place, apart from NZ new models that are mostly so-called Premium versions - lots of airbags, sunroof, McIntosh, S-pack, leather etc. You can probably use japo catalogues but need applied model code to know for sure what spec it came out of a showroom with, but I'd say visual inspection in person/from photos will be your best bet. @Kiwiflyboy did an amazing inspection of a DIT BR9 for me (thank you once again!), with a thorough description and lots of photos and even with a video - too bad I decide to join euro clan I sold my FGK exhaust to a fellow 5th gen owner from Hamilton. His was a standard GT without push start/HID/cruise control/SWC/Bilstein - extremely basic model.

If it is a push start proximity key fob then no, you cannot program it yourself. Might want to read through the following thread: If you are in Auckland @Subirex Automotive might be able help with programming.

Finally people starting to realise this, do not really get how dealers still manage to sell 06-07 BPs for like $12-14k. Check suspension (struts if higher km's), LCA bushes etc. Intercooler coupler is known to cause air leak on these so might wants to check that too (relatively inexpensive). As been discussed recently I'd also check headlights' reflectors for any signs of deterioration. Do some research on what specs you're getting, have seen one GT with no HID or even push start.

Was my initial thought too untill I googled what Subaru box looks like - much smaller indeed. Could be a car seat (bucket recliner)¿ That bump up the top?

High beam?

Definitely not - first I heard about this issues was on overseas forums (Jap imported Legacies).

Known issue, have seen people opening headlights (bake in an oven) and replacing the reflectors only. Can get a pair of very nice OSRAM HID bulbs for $100 or so shipped off ebay. Local prices are a rip-off. @1randomkiwi might want to comment on this Also, I'd rather go aftermarket and get CrystalEye headlights - auto levelling HID, new reflectors, LED goodness, plug'n'play. Probably about the same price as what you paid for your manual halogens too.

I did not have any issues with wiring nor I had to cut anything. Plug'n'play for the stereo pretty much (with ISO harnesses), no dimming issues. For SWC I just tapped into i85, not sure why you cut the i85 off completely. Clock sits on a different harness, factory stereo/AC controls have their own dimming wire so I am not sure why both act the same and stay dim all the time. Find pin-outs for the stereo harness and see if dimming wire on yours is at correct pin.

That does not look factory at all...

3" and 2.25" figures I had were from the Interenets, just went to double check and 3" is corrects but 2.25 is more like 2.38" so I guess I need 3" to 2.5" and just slip the 2.5" end over. Do you know if any of those above places do smaller quantities? I only need two

Haha you knew it! Rear bumper diffuser it is. On a side note, would anyone know where I can find some reducer pipes in stainless, need 2.25 to 3. Found some in mild steel but need stainless

Them crabonz indeed! I see what you've done there, but no!

You missed the following part:

This monster of a box arrived today. Massive but extremely light. any guesses what it might be?

Weren't they yours preferred option initially @1randomkiwi, in that same size/colour? Already sold, you wouldn't like it anyway

Gave these puppies a bit of TLC, not that they really needed much. Almost wish I had one of my Legacies to chuck them into They're very tight, if you have a bigger bum than an average Japanese person then you should probably look for something else.

@1randomkiwi tell everyone what you did to protect yours. That stuff should hold up well.

Easily recognisable but I was also wondering about accessibility, especially after hours.

Yeah very common mod for E9x platform, even offered on TM for $350 or so.

It is a full-on dealerships/workshops kit - Rheingold Ista-D and Ista-P, Subaru also have one but it's impossible to get afaik. Majority of it is firmware databases for all the F-series vehicles and I think the latest versions will have G-series in it too. Plus you get model related workshop manuals/how to's/diagnostics and troubleshooting. It basically tells you what and when to do in a rather easily digestible way. You just need to know where to look. I was playing around with the self-levelling suspension module - you can go into troubleshooting mode and make it to raise/drop each corner individually and both at the same time, it can show you how many mm each corner is off the recommended height etc. Makes your life much easier when troubleshooting. Basically a good way to save yourself a dollar or two on visits to the dealership. E-sys is another piece of soft and mainly used for codding. From basic software level options like DRLs (how bright, what lights will act as DRLs i.e squid rings only or/and low beams or/and fogs, front only or front+rear etc), enable/disable all sorts of beeps/gongs/other annoyances, sensitivity of rain sensors to more complicated codding of retrofitted/upgraded hardware like LED dash panels or LED headlights. Going to have a look at Alpina TCU flash, apparently gives faster less noticeable shifts and can go all the way up to the 8th gear in sports mode (stock only goes up to 7th).

I do not see any reasons for it not to work. Unless someone fiddled with it for some reason.

Finally finished installing BMW programming and diagnostic software - nearly 250GB all up . Took me a while to figure out how to adjust the rear air suspension, got it sorted in the end, even gaps all round now. Also found out that all control modules (like 20+ of them including ECU, TCU etc.) have very recent late 2016 firmware, must have been updated in Japan before it left for New Zealand.