Stodart

If so then Legal tread depth will be 4mm not the usual 1.5mm Yeah have a issue with that / the law change from 1.5mm to 4mm for winter tyres a few years ago. Understand why it was done because wearing out winter tyres can over heat and blowout under normal conditions because they are a softer compound (lower speed rated tyre) designed to operate best in colder winter conditions. Also Cheapskates were using/mixing worn out winter tyres ( ex japan) and with conventional tyres as well and there were some accidents attributed to this. But have been using winter tyres since 1992 in full and mixed applicaions ( driving wheels only) private and commercial my subarus and drove taxis with them for 5 winters (cars/Hiace vans) this included doing skifield transfers in the southern lakes area. And had no issues. Think its a liitle unfair the min 4mm depth as it means it penalises the use of them (extra saftey etc) and the cost of only being able to half use tyres. It penilises responsible users like myself and others "We are Borg" ? ie by taking them off when not required (having them fitted on spare rims in order to do this easily.)

Could be winter tyres? if there is an M+S (mud and snow) on side walls

Outbacks Gen 2 (98 /03) run these as standard

posssibly worn steering rack? listening to the clunks as turning steering wheel back and forth

If the noise is coming and going ie not continuous, it could be the hydraulic tappets with airlocks in them/worn? Not sure - but maybe replacing o ring in oil pump may fix this? http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,19282.msg270092.html#msg270092 Had an 86 Leone Ea82 that did this from 150K km didn\'t do anything/worry about it until l found out what it was. Also thought it was going to self destruct - happened after l changed oil for 1st time after purchase 2nd hand @ 150K kms, perhaps that was a hint but added some special additive. but still clattered away ocassionally from time to time, couldn\'t be bothered replacing them. lt ran fine for another 14 years and to 360K km and was still fine then when l gave it to my neighbour 2009, until a teenager finished it off :\'(

Who is the best company/s here? /Japan? doing this? as have a query from a US forum.

this is a little off topic but guess most people have seen this one: ATV Impreza STI Quadzilla

CV joints by the sounds of it, inboard one/s gone if clunking continuously in a straight line. outboard one/s gone when clicking/clunking turning corners , it would pay to renew all 4 CVs

Yawn : another round of V8 supercars bring back Godzilla ;D

If using an early on demand leone selectable Fwd to 4wd it will be ok on gravel/grass/loose surfaces but no good on hard surfaces in 4wd without a centre diff, as transmission/drive line will start to bind up as soon as start turning a corner (as front / rear wheels locked together and when turning a corner the front wheels travel further than rear wheels). unless you have excessive amounts of hp plus strenthened drive line. Thats why its difficult to select 2wd after being in 4wd and tuning a corner on a hard surface. Handbrake turns aren\'t going to work unless you modify it to work on rear wheels and need unlocked centre diff so it doesn\'t brake front wheels as well. Actually what "We Are Borg" suggested is the best answer if you can get one coz RX11 box (Ea82) is full time (lockable centre diff) hi/lo range.

A car completely ruined for some sort of "look" matched with the driver/owner adopting a certain driving attitide/behaviour, below what it (the car) is was originally intended for.

If it still happens after checking / tightening / replacing drive belt/s, when pushing clutch in with motor already running and selecting a gear , its possibly the clutch release bearing or possibly the spigot shaft bearing/bush (part of the clutch assembly too) in flywheel. Cam belt change interval is every 100K km so yours due in 12K km. I paid $650 for a full belt kit for Outback and fitted it myself .Kit may cost more or less depending on who/where get one from. Its around about $1000 +/- for a garage to do it.

Nice 1 hey what product/method did you use on headlights? mine on BH9 Outback not that great.

Last bike was a 78 kawasaki KT250 trials (2 stroke) great bike, used it like a horse, on steep hill country farm. was far superior/lighter/more low down torque compared to 4 stroke rivals of that period. still have Before that suzuki 74 TS 185L trail bike (2 stroke ) (geared down with 1 tooth less on gearbox sprocket for hill work on farm also) great bike also. this was 30/35 years ago well before popularity of 3/4 wheelers Sort of lost interest now :-/

did you get radiator flow tested? what are the symptoms? details? whats it doing? loosing water when it overheats etc?

Yeah totally agree why didn\'t Prodrive UK or (even Subaru itself) build something like this with 500hp

Subarus have a basic mechanical drivetrain where as evos, 911s and gtrs drive trains are more complex with sensors / computers monitoring / controlling the drive to where is needed and in the case of the Gtr changes in the supension as well ie firming / softening the damper setting in milliseconds. Power isn\'t everything for fast lap times is the whole package ie platform, brakes, suspension steering, tyres, computer aids etc . ie the Stock Gtr is quite heavy 1800kg but its fast because of electronic/computer aids in the 4wd system / suspension. and an amazing platform/chassis that has the ability to take a lot more power. In this top gear video this is an example of a prototype prodrive subaru? in the UK with an e centre diff with with it on and of. in the lap times it was 5 second faster with the electronic trickery on.

Take top hose off radiator, fill engine with water (garden hose) , anti freeze in radiator, run up to temperature with radiator cap off to release air etc for at least 1/2 hr, top up when necessary, expansion bottle to "full", shut off engine, radiator cap back on, recheck after it cools down, top up, recheck / top up until its ok, patience is required. This method works for me, never have any airlock issues. Heater and a/c settings make no difference to water flow through heater core, as heating / cooling is controled by flaps diverting away / directing air through heater core.

Take top hose off radiator, fill engine with water (garden hose) , anti freeze/ in radiator, run up to temperature with radiator cap off to release air etc for at least 1/2 hr, top up when necessary, expansion bottle to "full", shut off engine, radiator cap back on, recheck after cools down, top up, recheck / top up until its ok, patience is required. this method works for me. never have any airlock issues. Heater and a/c settings make no difference to water flow through heater core. as heating / cooling is controled by flaps diverting away / directing air through heater core.

I do this too double declutch / throttle blip on downshifts , old old habits die hard from driving buses/trucks and old 1/2 synchro and non synchro from the early days . also extends the life of modern clutch/transmissions by minimising transmission snap / surge / clutch slip. Also use trailing throttle / minimal braking mostly - extends life of brakes too. any chance of a job ?

Why penny pinch on tyres? they\'re one of the more important aspects of motoring ie for good: braking, acceleration, traction ,lateral ie cornering performance. its well known and documented that it is recommended that all 4 tyres need to be replaced as a set on all wheel drives, espescially subarus. To put it in a finacial perspective say a set of tyres costs $200 ea ie $800 set say they last 30,000 -40,000km tyre cost per km is 2 cents to 2.66 cents per km Fuel say @ $ 2.25 / litre and say fuel consumption 10 litres / 100km fuel cost 22.5 cents a km so moral of the story is that your fuel costs around about 10 times that of your tyres per km ,so why penny pinch, by not replacing full sets, apart from / as well as possibly damaging diffs by mismatching.

In the procees of doing 200K cambelt change etc on 01 Outback @ 224K as 1st one done @ 124K by previous owner, while apart took hoses off, flushed heater core, radiator (out) and engine and associated pipes, well.

sorry can\'t help with modern stuff ie sensors / electronic engine management etc as very much old school as most recent car (01 Outback) is this 1st i\'ve owned with this, and have had no issues with it in this issue

Absolutely engine doesn\'t run efficiently ie develop full power until it has warmed up, ie most of engine wear occurs when cold so need to take it easy. eg l don\'t exceed 3000rpm until car has warmed up usually sit on 2500rpm (subaru engines develop a reasonable amout of torque at 2500rpm) If its running cold / slow to warm up the thermostat may be jammed open or may have been removed to cover up overheating issues, if this is the case the heater doesn\'t work / heat very well.

Version 4 to 6 ? in a 22b coupe for the wider guards/look/performance etc and the type R Coupe coz of the body lines rear/wing. etc