Subirex Automotive

if you in auckland than come and see me ill check your overheating issue.

factory doesnt make space for towbar tounge storage. we normally keep it in spare tyre hole when not in use. you might be able to get the tounge from Best Bars, they are the ones who make genuine towbars for subarus and supplies it to subaru new zealand.

possible cam belt tensioner? or it can be beb just starting. sometimes beb wont knock on idle but will start as soon as you load it up. try checking tensioner first.

its a 91 gt so the throttle readings will be the other way around 4.5ish on closed throttle and 0.5v on full throttle. check for play in throttle plate shaft behind tps, they tend to wear out and leak vacuum through it. i had that problem in a bh leggy. remove tps and check for play first.

correct me if im wrong, but shouldn\'t the fuel pressure be around 35 to 43.5psi on idle?

come and see me if its not fixed, ill sort it out for you

come to me and ill hook a boost gauge and check it for you, at no cost.

Impreza wrx and sti 2.0 and 2.5 hasnt come with chain drive yet. they are still using EJ series engine. only BR, BM legacy , 2012 foresters and 2012 NA impreza with FA20, FB20, FB25 engines have chain drives. not forgetting EZ36 as well.

yes it will provided you swap complete with top hats. its the spring part that sits on strut that doesnt match for fronts. but if you can interchange complete with hats, its just a straight bolt on. now how i know?? i installed my complete bp5 bilstiens set (front and rear) to my old bh5. as for adjustable, they will interchange easy as.

just contact the tuner i used, he has all the stuff needed for reflashing and really professional and genuine guy. does do it quiet cheap as well. this is one of his job that he posted a while ago http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,25728.msg511754.html#msg511754

i have a genuine kit. can install also. pm me if you need one.

yes. has got a much better throttle response and no timing pulls. boost stays constant when pulling hard. doesnt drop a beat

100,000kms or 5 years, whichever comes first.

i have a 03 bp5 spec b had it flashed by one of the members Allister (Paimei) on sunday. he had no problems reflashing it. just a mild one at this stage, will be going again after i do some more mods

got my bp reflashed thanks to Allister (Paimei). heaps of difference power wise. no more ignition cuts at higher revs. and much better throttle response.

get the trans checked, they come with cvt box and see if the cvt oil is in good condition. they cost heaps. cvt oil is lifetime but if driven under harsh conditions i.e towing than it is recommended to be replaced every 40,000kms. check if the car stalls on sudden braking to stop. we have done few of these, o\'ring inside the trans breaks off and fluids leaks internally. torque converters come faulty as well. engine wise, its pretty strong and we haven\'t had problems with it yet.

plugging in the scanner does not necessarily mean you check for fault codes. i could have done that yesterday when i checked the car by plugging in the connectors. i want the see the live data of the engine sensors. to what i saw yesterday was, the idle being rough intermittently and not lumpy as described. no vaccum leaks were detected after blocking off the bov and its lines, problem was still there. i checked the spark plugs, which was near new, leads were within specs except for number 4 which was showing intermittent values and low reading ( i did replace that ). cleaned the afm, isc valve as well. did an upper engine clean, was better for a while than it started again. drove it and felt no power from the turbo. car has aftermarket equal length headers, up pipe, vf22 turbo and catless down pipe. so what i under stand at this stage is that one of the sensors could be a bit lazy and giving a wrong reading. i will be able to confirm this by reading the live data while the fault happens. it can be any sensor related to idling that can cause this rough idle. will update tomorrow of the findings.

if you in auckland than come and see me, ill check it for you.

i told you not to buy that motor :(

if you in auckland, come and see me, ill sort you out.

try this site. it gives all info of recommended oil and capacity for any vehicle. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/castrolhomepage.do?categoryId=3070 double click on workshop lube guide under toolkit.

not all subaru center diffs are sealed units and yes they can be serviced. there are ways around it. i have serviced heaps of these and never gave me any problem. have done it on bh, bp, and few if the impreza\'s.

9 pin yellow connector is used for diagnostic tool located where the green plugs are

on the right hand side of the engine bay there is a grey plug that comes from the inlet. pull it out and see if it is filled with oil. if it is than change the inlet loom and both rear cam sensors. its a common faults on these models, where the rear cam sensors leak internally and pushes the oil inside the wiring loom causing heaps of problem.

its a long shot of changing the oil, as the center diffs are a sealed unit and takes ages for oil to circulate inside it. the only way to take out the dirty oil from center diffs is to pull it apart and clean the plates. i have done this to my old legacy and it made a huge difference i.e no shudder while turning.