Andy_Mac

Pretty much my ones twin. Should definately get the LED parkers and fogs, matching lights makes all the difference.

Just use the image code on photobucket specB

Rev c isn't the facelift. Only noticeable difference over older ones will be the blackout gauge cluster. don't get caught up on the model years. Bh5c is a rev c no matter what way you look at it Was there even a different prefacelift e-tune bodykit?

^correctamundo

Without trying to threadjack what kind of rough numbers would you be looking for wih other areas? Never really know what to tell techs so just let them do what they want. Getting mine done this saturday withh the new tyres, just a bit more camber, front and rear, to fit wider wheels in there rhan normal

Mint. Saves trying to find a v7 one.

Stealing my dumb question, thief

And they've got a pretty sweet top end too unlike the newer legacy's that run out of puff north of 5000rpm

Was being lazy and didn't feel like going down to work to use the monster vice. This little fella paid the ultimate price

Tomorrows challenge along with some bushes

Already upgrading from the stockers aye? Should get some more info and measurements for the inserts when they're back out. Interested in how they actually get the setup to work

There's always alot more space than you'd think behind door cards. Just cut a section of polystyrene out of behind the door card in the old legacy and jammed it in there, worked like a dream, imagine impreza's follow a pretty similar trend. And as much as most people say can the rear speakers i still prefer having a strong backfill. Got the polk DB's bigger siblings in the current car, front and back, and those things are absolute beasts. Without wanting to chuck large wads of money at it find something with 4x50-60w. Nothing wrong with going for a matching pioneer one. And for sub i'd say a 12inch with atleast 400w rms. With the old preboxed 8inch 250w i had i found the rear seats really limited what could be heard from it and needed to be cranked obnoxiously loud to hear the full range. Also impedances is key with subs, don't go rushing in without really researching what each sub needs and what amps can provide that at the required impedance.

Polk mm840 seems to be the most popular drop in swap for the aussie crowd.

Yea quite a few nz ones don't, was an option most nz'ers apparently didn't think they'd ever need. Has your one turned up yet?

Yea one of the three buttons below the mirror adjusting knob to the right of the steering wheel/above fuse cover. Some models/regions didn't have that feature but i'm almost completely sure all jap ones have it

They're part of the front axles. Goes into the gearbox. Is it leaking from the rubber flexi section or where they go into the transmission? Had a seal wear on my old one where it goes into the transmission. Flexi sections are the cv boots. Generally spin grease everywhere when they start leaking.

Not sure at all, was only thinking of doing it to wear out the 215 tyres i've got and then go 235 when they need replacing, i'll just end up removing the tyres from the stock rims and selling them off cheap. [quote name='sobanoodle said: They scratched one of mines - ended up repairing it at Arrow Wheels, all paid for by Tony's ($180+ GST). Moral of the story: take photos of the rims before you give them your keys.Grey Lynn branch that was. thats bloody **** ay. Will take some photos. They're brand new, still in their boxes anyway so should have a faily good foot to stand on if they do mark them up.

Sweet. I'll look into a teng tools 3/8 one. Might go better but depends what the jump is really

In that case what is the most usefull size torque wrench to get? Thinking 3/8?

Well, have been ringing round a few places and they've all said they wouldn't fit 215 tyres on 8.5 inch rims even for new sets of brands they stock, other than falken tyres which one said have been designed to work with aggressive stretching. So basically thats solved my dilemma for me, new tyres it is!

How anal are you people with correctly torquing bolts and other bits? Sure engine stuff is more of a given but what about other bits round the car? Is it completely necessary to follow the manufacturers recommendations or just give things a light/heavy crank based on whats the recommended torque is?

In stock form it just changes the requested torque/pedal position vs throttle opening % mapping. But limits max throttle opening in I mode so can be pretty dangerous when tou need to accelerate hard but no matter how hard you try the power isn't there. Individual boost maps for each mode when tuned is probably the coolest part about it.

06 should be vf45 although some have vf44, not sure if its any different or not spec wise. Everything is pretty vague on these JDM turbo's. I know my 06 is a vf45 from the nameplate. As long as its not vf38 you're in the clear, as far as we can gather the vf44/45 are ball bearing turbo's vs roller for vf38 so 06 6 speed generally means you're past the dodgy phase.

Dtech for the win. One of the most reputable ones in the north island and right on our back doorstep being in TGA

Was going to say sti ones from japanparts but then saw the horrendous price....