Andy_Mac

I had a 14 in mine and that had no station clashes. Most are just cheap crap anyway so don't give a very precise shift. Sure its probably over $1000 for the fascia and headunit but it gives you alot more than just the radio. Bluetooth and usb connectivity makes it worth every cent

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/valve-body-mods-giant-leaps-forward-160101.html Quite a few peeps in the states seem to go this route, not really clued up on auto's at all so not sure if this is the kind of thing transmission specialists in nz would do.

If you can find a suby specialist and sweet talk them they can usually do it a bit cheaper using gates belts. Had mine done for 850, not much over parts price for the whole lot including thermostat. but did work right next to them for years and had to put up with their clients taking up all our works car parks so they kinda realised they owed us haha. Wouldn't advise it myself but if you visit alot of US sites they tend to change their belts at 100,000miles not km so apparently the belts must have a bit more give in them than we believe.

Good effort. Really tempted to remove mine. Still works but its just such a big bulky bas**rd that makes changing spark plugs even harder. Read theough the infamous one a few times now and seem to have my head around what needs to go. Also lists the codes, for anyone else wanting to do this, that need to be disabled, for legacy's atleast, can't confirm for impreza's http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2007-2009-air-pump-delete-cel-codes-and-ecu-fix-170990.html

Nice. Pray they have some sense and make a manual version.

Most separators aren't hugely cheaper than catch cans so would probably work out more in the end. What kind of fitting does the vent have?, not possible to modify it to attach some hose to it and feed it back to the intake?

You know there are a lot of catch cans out there that vent back to the intake aye?

The plus side is they don't need emptying the way catch cans do, the downside is the oil fed back into the filler port isn't always as clean as you'd like it to be

It would certainly not be advisable having your head nearby when you release the gas, frost bitten noses don't look as awesome as you may think

I'm certainly no expert but i'm sure most of the same issues apply to dyno tuners too. Who's to say they don't do an awesome job on cars they think are worth it and then have a half arse approach to doing ones that have only minor mods and don't consider interesting jobs. You hear just as many, if not more stories of cars going boom after a **** dyno tune than e-tuning. E-tuners seem to be more conservative as a whole rather than tuning right to the edge of reliability. But really unless you're in the industry everything you hear should be taken with a grain of salt, dyno tuned or e-tuned. Edit: yea all the issues with shamar would have definately turned heaps away from e-tuning. Though in saying that he was also doing dyno tunes which were just as bad so shows either way tuners can get complacent/lazy and really f*** things up

Compared to the likes of nasioc and other 'American' forums, the user BS level here is actually extremely low. Some of the **** you read over there is phenomenal

^ thats how i feel too. I purely did it for the, i like cars, i like computers/tech stuff, lets see if i can make this work factor. Have alot of faith in them for tuning cars with simple predictable mods where the tune is more of a slight tweak job of all parameters rather than a full blown overhaul. If i ever went the bigger turbo route i'd definately be going straight to d-tech.

Can definitely vouch for their work, knowledge of what's going on and professionalism, but as happy as I am with mine it can be a bit of a pain to find a place to do pulls. Had to drive miles out into the country to a mates flat private road/driveway each time, and If your not that lucky then it usually means finding a track to do it on each time which can be a bit of a hassle too.

New guy maybe? Starting to make a good appearance on lgt.com too. Good to see anyway. Might finally be able to sway those currently intimidated by the software side of the e-tuning process

Going off topic a bit here but with 2010+ where you need to keep cats, if the factory one has two cats do you need an aftermarket one with two or is it acceptable to have just the one?

I can normally spare half a day, or whatever it takes any weekend

v7 cores have a dual entry anyway. just need some silicone hoses from the turbo's to the intercooler, can't use stock ones. Marky did it back in the day. Will be documented in his build log somewhere hidden on here. Was an extremely tight fit from the sounds of it. But as above bugger all gains unless ducting to channel the airflow across the entire core is used. Are they actually doing this as an attempted performance item or just for looks/for s**ts and gigs?

Killerv seems to have most of your questions covered But here's a walkthrough for pulling apart a facelift auto stereo area. http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=17301 Also worth noting that apparently with the MY06 and some 07 units the optional aux setup you can buy to plug in does not work. Mildly different hardware in the unit people who seem to know what they're on about say. So easiest option would be using an anycar module, or similar device.

Up underneath it if it's anything like 3rd gen Leggys, need a stumpy screwdriver or socket set with Philips bit.

Na i've pulled that whole area apart when i did the audio and there's definately no hidden buttons round that area. Not exactly sure how it'd work unless its cable operated anyway which would be completely impractical. Think its just one of those annoying things that was overlooked when designed

Spam account. And this ones sending spam pm's http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/member.php?18861-ogbulo

Got the big containers of both, 5-6 litres. Can't quite remember what size they come in. Used the castrol site for getting volumes required. Just to clarify it is a turbo not a 3.0r ay? If its a 2.5L turbo you just use the 2007 values, but if its a jdm 2.0l turbo use the engine volume for 2005 and gearbox, diff from 2007 Yea not many places have that bit. Had to get it ordered in from an automotive tools supplier. I'm free but don't have anything for getting the car up, just used a whole lot of wood to drive up on last time, but said wood has since transformed into a fence. And not really a fan of being under cars when just up on jacks especially with how tight these bolts will be. If marky's free to help you and doesn't have one i can always get it over to paps. Or i can make something up at work this week to drive up, just wouldn't be tomorrow.

2006ish onwards is post, also headlights will look like this with the curved up corners So basically 6mt needs the T70 torx bit to fully drain the transmission. Looks like this Should be easy to get done in a couple of hours I used castrol edge 5w-30 for the engine And castrol universal 80w-90 for the gearbox and rear diff. Only use this fluid for torsen rear diffs though, not the right stuff for viscous ones All facelift spec b gt's have this diff, not 100% sure on 3.0r's though. If it's any help these are the markings my torsen one has underneath

Good on ya. Got the software side sorted yet?

I'm sure if you ask fortyone nicely he can source a set for you