Andy_Mac

yea really high and rises with rpm. i\'ll have a proper listen to the speakers tomorrow and check the amp ground.

thinking about it A/C shouldn\'t really effect it as its a different belt straight off the engine.. maybe a/c fan draw i guess..

have now developed a high pitched whine that gets higher and louder with more things running (stereo, lights, a/c) and when engine rpm rises so i get the feeling the alternator is just struggling with the extra load from the stereo. Can\'t get it to do it when it just sits there idling. Still makes the whine with the stereo volume turned right down which i\'m thinking would rule out interference running through the speakers, could be wrong but logically i\'d have thought with the volume right down a mild hum would be the most you\'d ever get. Stops when the stereo is turned off which turns off the amp so not sure what the draw would be from the amp with volume turned right down, might test that tomorrow. Will take it for a drive with a passenger tomorrow so they can confirm whether it\'s coming through the speakers or not. Sounds like a similar issue to this one, never posted up what fixed it in the end though.. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,19430.0.html

Don\'t know what kind of pressure\'s car refrig runs at but with commercial refrig after a compressor burn out we just change the drier and the pressure pushes any remaining crap along into the new drier and that gets changed again in a month or so, And when condensers can run into the tens of thousands its pretty hard convincing the customer they need to replace them just because of a little contamination.

I\'d disagree with replacing all that. All you\'d really need to do would be pressurise it to a couple of hundred psi and push any crap out and do a decent vac. Unless its been left with a component unsealed then maybe there is too much to deal with but chucking in a filter/drier is normally enough. If you think the contamination has effected the condenser enough to change then by that theory shouldn\'t the evap be changed aswell. Although the price of a 2nd hand coil is potentially cheaper than the effort needed to clean out the old one. As long as there is a couple of psi left in it it should stay uncontaminated. So really before going down the full replacement track they should crack one of the pipes and if any gas is still there then most components will be ok. The tx valve and solenoids are the only parts that will really struggle to deal with a small amount of contamination

Would i be right in assuming the condenser is being replaced as it had a hole and compressor burnt out from having no gas? Has something hit the frontend? $500 isn\'t all that bad really for someone else doing it but it would be a fairly simple task to do yourself. Those discount vouchers do make regassing a bit less of a rip off but if you know anyone out your way who does a/c stuff get them to hook you up for a box of beer, these car systems only take a few 100g. With our big systems its acceptable to lose about 50g every time we check the pressures so what a car takes is nothing.

Not a mechanic so not really sure what sounds are ok on a car and what aren\'t. I know in my trade (A/C and Refrig) a sound like this would generally indicate stuffed bearings which should be replaced asap So i think this noise is coming from a pulley somewhere in the deep abyss. I first noticed it as i was looking for the source of a high pitched whine that has come about since installing a decent audio setup. It seems to only occur when the sounds turned up a reasonable amount and stops when the headunits turned off, maybe something to do with the alternator. Possibly a different problem though, thinking maybe wiring interference. EDIT: Changed to youtube as photobucket compressed it and decided the possible bearing sound wasn\'t a necessary part of the audio...

probably going to get more hits for this alarm in a separate thread if its not actually a avs alarm

Thats what I felt like too, I like the idea of a rex but aren\'t really keen for the popo attention and all that goes along with them, interior wise i like the BE\'s a hell of a lot more than older rex\'s. And i really don\'t think i could live with all the blue in the interior. Talk to subout, part of subworx. Don\'t know if they\'re in the right part of the country for you but they quoted me 2800 for a unspecified version sti conversion with turbo and ecu or 3800 for full v8 conversion with group n ecu. The only problem i feel would be the small block as you\'d be getting new heads and all that but whether the legacy block is strong enough for any power increase. Just thinking out loud though, someone with more experience could say otherwise.

yea thats why it makes bugger all sense. And nothing else got knocked, checked everything after i took it for the first drive with it changed and it felt worse. Oh well might just have to do a half arse tear down over the weekend, was keen to see if the primary had any shaft play as i think its been getting a bit louder lately. Assuming the turbo intake can be moved aside enough without taking off the manifold.

got an issue thats kinda stumped me, was having a nosey around the engine bay the other day and noticed someone had moved a clamp from holding on a pipe going between the passenger side bov and turbo intake and had it just on the pipe squashing it quite a bit. so i decided to move it to where it should be, the pipe wasn\'t the whole way on so i pushed it down further and clamped it. The part i don\'t get is now the vod seems exponentially worse. The only thing i could think of was some air was escaping before the turbo which doesn\'t seem quite right as pressures were always slightly high rather than low. And the pipe was on enough that it was still fairly tight. Cars a 2000 B4 RSK btw

Has anyone seen one of these before. The internet just links the model number to a whole load of Asian sites i can\'t read but one says its a GPS antenna. Assume its for a headunit the car used to have that had GPS as i guess an alarm one wouldn\'t be put in a spot so easy to rip out.

How those turbo\'s are holding out at that many k\'s is another factor. But 4-5 is probably fair. Give it a serious polish up and you might get a few more $$

That front end is pure sex. That front end looks quite a lot like the new jags which are some of the best looking cars around these days. Still not so sure on the rear end though. Doesn\'t have the same flair as the front.

just realised the other day when cleaning my rears got pinks. they sit at quite possibly the best height for looks and practicality, can still chock the thing up with three in the back and a full boot and have no problems

Anyone had any dealings with parallelimported.co.nz they have the same jbl amp abtec has for 359 rather than 500. Just not so sure of the legitimacy of parallel imported stuff

narrowed it down to this setup which i think wwill get the job done. DD 8" sub http://www.onlinecaraudio.co.nz/DD_LE_MINI08 Infinity components http://www.onlinecaraudio.co.nz/Infinity_REF6510CS and a amp capable of atleast 90w per channel. Narrowed it down to these two as a haven\'t found many others that\'ll do round the 90w mark http://www.onlinecaraudio.co.nz/JBL_GTO1004 http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/amps/131/amp-4-channel-lw4-640-lil-wonder/153786/detail just can\'t decide whether the JBL is worth the $100 extra

yea it sounds just like a supercharger whine, seems to do it most when spooling up slowly rather than when pushing it a bit. only had mine for 6000km and changed it about 3000km ago

just sidetracking a little. My B4 does the same, any idea what it actually is doing to make the sound, i\'d always thought it was bearings or something like that and that it\'ll need replacing in the not too distant future

i had been considering this one as it won\'t take up as much space as a cube but haven\'t found any amps that say they do 1 ohm http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/subs/130/sub-10-inch-p3s-1x10-punch-shallow-boxed/153479/detail

changed my mind from that, had a look in the boot and what i thought was a 2nd 6x9 hole was actually something much smaller, so going to stick with one 6x9 for now. would these see much benefit from being hooked up to an amp http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/speakers/129/coax-6-5-inch-p165-punch-series/174736/detail thinking maybe one of those in each door

Looking at getting a better setup for my legacy as it currently sounds like absolute rubbish. Thinking maybe two 6x9\'s in the section behind rear seats. I\'ve heard good things about rockford fosgate and figured i\'d go with them for these speakers atleast. Just not sure whether to go for the punch series or prime. Anyone tried both as if the punch is not much better i\'d rather not spend the extra $$ Also i can\'t be bothered with a sub as space is limited as is in a sedan. Thinking either of these http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/speakers/129/coax-6x9-inch-p1692-punch-series/153404/detail http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/speakers/129/coax-6x9-inch-r1693-prime-series/153427/detail With http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/amps/131/amp-2-channel-pbr300x2-300-watt-rail-boost/153457/detail For the amp And the door speakers will get sorted after i make up my mind for this part

Yea think i might just get a mechanic to do it. There\'s a post on cs on removing the hub and from the sounds of it its a bit more involved than i\'m really comfortable with.

Also if you can get a rev d - 2001 onwards, facelift model with the slightly better TT setup

haven\'t had a chance to have a good nosey under the rear end yet as there\'s nowhere at mine i can jack it up. vtnz said both forward rear trailing arm bushings were pretty bad and wouldn\'t pass next time around. i\'ve been thinking maybe shimmy something up using a vise to squeeze them out.