Andy_Mac

Anybody tried doing this without removing the hub and arm and without a press. i\'d rather not pay a mechanic for something that from the looks of things i could do myself. i\'ve read a few walkthrough\'s that show it being done with two piece replacement bushes but don\'t know if its possible with one piece ones

if it hasn\'t stuffed the joint from having no grease then a replacement boot and install should be 90-120. mine cost $138 with a steering rack boot aswell

sadly my money pit ain\'t quite that large.. good to know clarions are whats in there stock, when i got mine the driver one had been removed and the passenger had a pioneer that didn\'t quite fit so had the cover stuck on with double sided tape that fell off each time you closed the door, far less than ideal.

Anyone know of any tweeters that will fit in the enclosure near the side mirrors on a 3rd gen legacy. The smallest ones i could find were some pioneer ones that were still too big for the the covers to properly fit over.

Considering the feature is there to prevent someone removing the battery/ fiddling with cars wiring i doubt there is any way to fix this other than getting a new key from avs. The alarm has a secondary battery inside it that powers it when the battery is removed and is basically designed to make a scene if the cars battery is removed whilst engaged. a serial number may be enough info for them to get the correct key.

Would i be correct in assuming you have to drain the engine oil before taking the rocker cover off?

Just straighten them all out with a small flathead or something similar . Thats what we do in the refrig trade whenever some f***tard decided it\'d be cool to write their name in the coil on an A/C unit. Can be a slow process but it can get it looking almost like new, and its only ever the top layer that gets bent over, so deeper down is normally fine.

if its a stock engine subaru don\'t recommend it, but in reality they are just covering their ass incase it all goes wrong as they probably haven\'t done research themselves on the long term effects of running it.

Anyone here know how to re-engage the lock/unlock chirp on a s5? I managed to somehow stop it the other day while trying to stop the turbo timer in the dark and can\'t for the life of me work out how to get it back.

Anyone here know how to re-engage the lock/unlock chirp on a s5? I managed to somehow stop it the other day while trying to stop the turbo timer in the dark and can\'t for the life of me work out how to get it back.

I\'ve had a look round the net with not much luck about how to remove the glass from these mirrors. has anyone on here done or knows how its done. i\'m guessing there\'s no screws and it should just pop off with enough force. I\'ve given it a go a few times but with no luck and i would really rather not snap the glass by using excess force

if its anything like the BE/BH legacy\'s it\'ll wear your primary out alot faster than without though. Mines starting to get a pretty good whine coming along

that cupholder fully blew my mind the first time i used it ay, from pics i could never work out what it was when closed. i can safely say that cup holder was atleast 90% of the reason why i got mine..

put a can of upper engine cleaner through mine a few days ago and has almost completely removed the uneven acceleration when cold. So it definitely is something to do if you haven\'t already

i was under the impression ~10psi was the max for primary and then ~16psi when both are up and running

i just ran a can of upper cylinder cleaner through the engine and was giving it a go to see if there was any noticable difference. seems a fair bit more responsive in the low range so it looks like its done its job. one thing i noticed, which i\'ve never tried before so don\'t know if its right or not, going up a bit of a hill on the motorway doing about 95 in fifth gear i floored to see what it would do. The revs went up to about 3400rpm and i noticed the boost go right up to ~15psi. Surely thats way too low for the secondary to be kicking in, or under full load will it open earlier as there would be enough exhaust gas for it? i can\'t imagine the primary would be able to go that high without something catastrophic going wrong.

just found this on the subaru site, they say not to use ethanol on any jap imports and basically not on any nz new turbo models as the ethanol eats stuff you don\'t want it to.. Ethanol suitability for Subarus Most Subarus purchased new in New Zealand since 1990 are capable of running on the ethanol blended fuel now being introduced to the local market. However any Japanese domestic specification models which have been imported here second hand (i.e.). second hand Japanese imports - should not be run on the ethanol blended fuel. These cars are only suitable for 3 percent blended fuels. The fuel being sold in New Zealand has a 10 percent ethanol blend. The 10 percent ethanol blended fuel could cause damage to the fuel line, fuel injector sealing, fuel pump or fuel regulator of these second hand Japanese imports. The fumes from the blended fuel after combustion can also have a harmful effect on the catalytic converter, the exhaust gas regulator and the muffler. Those Subarus which can use the 10 percent ethanol blended fuel have a 17 digit VIN number beginning with either JF1 or JF2. The VIN number can be found at the bottom of the central door pillar on the passenger’s side of the car or in the engine bay. The second hand Japanese imports which should not use the ethanol blended fuel have VIN numbers starting with 7A8. A small number of models sold new in New Zealand cannot use the 10 percent blended fuel. They are.- Legacy RS, Legacy GT, Legacy GTB, Legacy RSK and Legacy Blitzen from 1990 onwards; the Impreza STI from 1997 onwards and the Forester STI. They do not have JF1 or JF2 VIN numbers. Owners who are not sure if they can use the ethanol-blended fuel in their car should consult their nearest Subaru Authorised Dealer.

and regarding the e10 from gull, i\'m no expert but from every post i\'ve seen and everyone i\'ve talked about it to its a big no no for turbo subys

yea same as what mine does (2000 B4 RSK) i put up a post prob around a week ago and it seems all too common to have this problem. i\'ve always run mine on BP 98 so i doubt that is the problem

Na no codes Yea quite a few threads i\'ve looked into say its quite common but never seem to give a straight up answer on what causes it, suppose if its common then its not really something thats major. Could it have anything to do with the ecu being setup for 100 octane jap fuel rather than 98 in nz?

If it was missing would you not expect it to increase in frequency as revs go up? This keeps roughly the same frequency but is just a larger pulse at higher revs

I think plugs are ok. Checked the two on the passenger side when i first got the car and they were some pretty brand new looking iridium ones, i made the assumption they would have changed all 4 at the same time but maybe its worth checking the other 2

So from cold there seems to be some wierd stuff going on with my legacy. This happens in all gears i\'ve tried, up to 2000rpm it runs sweet but once it gets over 2000rpm the power is kind of jerky, as if i\'m pulsing the accelerator slightly which i know i\'m not. Once its warmed up there\'s no sign of it whatsoever. Could this be some kind of sensor messing with the air/fuel ratio when cold and that the ratio when warmed up is ok?

yea i\'ve been to give it a go too, currently only have stock single pot front and back so well due for an upgrade. a couple of things i\'d been wondering were whether LVV certification is needed for something like that, they mention needing it if getting larger rotors but nothing about beefier calipers. and with regards to ABS and stopping force front and rear ratio, would any changes need to be made there or will it just work it out on its own?

Just did the switchover tonight, chucked it on line 11 with a straight joiner where it originally was. will still need to get proper vac hose to the gauge as the hose i bought was a size too big. now reading 22psi vac when idle about 10psi at around 3.2k and drops down to 5-6psi in the VOD and about 16psi at 6k so all is well for now... cheers for all the help guys, got there in the end with a grand total of $14 so can\'t complain