Andy_Mac

If its an EJ20 GT then there is no practical way of giving it a typical boxer sound. The EL headers just don't let it happen. You can get them sounding good but its just different to the normal suby sound All the turbo models in there currently are 2.0GT ones with EL headers http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?47527-BL-BP-Exhaust-Thread

True? Tried to have a bit of a search for NZ Subaru examples for WTA's but came up with next to nothing Yea can't really be bothered with meth injection, would be interested to see what it can gain but its a bit far past my needs. May just end up finding a low wide front mount that'll fit past the fog lights and fill out the whole lower opening. Not alot of space behind the bumper beam on these ones so a tall one would require the removal of the beam in most cases. There any particular brands of front mounts to go for? Hard to really tell the quality from online searches

Yea that seems to be the opinion of 90% of people out there considering it. The theory is solid but it will add more weight and complication with the upside of no bumper/chassis/bumper beam cutting needed to get intercooler piping fitting correctly. You talking water/meth injection or just intercooler sprayers?

Any of you looked into going for a WTA intercooler instead of a front mount. There's a few aussie liberty guys that have done it with great success but seems to be a bit of a underutilised option for Subaru's. Mainly considering one as you get a hugely shorter turbo to TB length and don't end up with huge piping running through the engine bay. Especially with the newer cars with the secondary air pumps that take up most of the suitable piping space. Also allows stock engine cover to be kept and can utilise more ideal intake designs. Thinking about trying one just to do something a bit different, they're actually cheaper than the few supported front mounts for the JDM Legacy's. Can't imagine a custom one would be any cheaper either

Could be either to be honest. If its the 2.0gt then it has equal length headers and you won't be able to get the suby rumble, if its a 2.5gt then your in luck and some more open mufflers should give you what you're after. Look on the vin plate in the engine bay that'll say either ej25 or ej20. Basically if its imported from Japan is always a 2.0gt, but NZ new vehicles seemed to come with either.

Probably want to have a go at ripping the fan out and seeing if its stuffed then. It'll be up around the glove box. It'd pay to completely remove the glove box to make life easier. Need to pull the dash end panel off to get to the glove box limiting string/wire, assuming you have a 4th gen legacy.

Get an aftermarket intercooler with it and you'll be sussed

Half of it will be what way you enter your driveway. Without my clamps I could check it and it'd be centred before going in the drive and after that it'd be pulled off to one side, quite a prick of a driveway though. Pfft, back on your meds man, totally a capital C

So that'll be a wiring issue or a blown fan motor or controller. Does the screen/controls power on? If so, does the fan work on heating? Radiator leaking will not be the cause of this.

Yea thought so, would have called that a C link if I had the master car part naming job. You can always get the solid endlinks rather than adjustable which more often than not have a fairly solid bush and a bolt going right the way through so should give similar stiffness to the D link. http://www.whiteline.com.au/mobile_product_detail.php?part_number=KLC30&sq=20630

You can get the top half fascia holes for next to nothing, its the A/C connected to the stereo front plate that makes it a bastard to do a home job on since that will need replacing too

Pretty sure you just need to stay away from dot 5 as its silicone based fluid which messes **** up I've got the Castrol React stuff in mine now, can't fault it yet. The Motul RBF600 stuff seems to get alot of praise

Stuff go pro's that things the way to go. Does it connect to a nav system or something to get that info? Epic, didn't know anyone on the forum had a RA-R

What exactly are you referring to by D links? My rear without the clamps would still have most of a fingers width of space at each end to move laterally before the bend in the bar would stop it. But thats nothing compared to the movement the fronts can have. The BE/BH ones look similar other than the big hump on one side.

If you don't want to go for the tablet option to keep things simple then you can just rip out the stock unit and chuck a single or double dinn in there and either put a single dinn pocket in the top opening or get a folding lid one from a wrecker. Thats how my setup currently looks Don't know about being easily removable. Is any properly done headunit install easy to remove, wouldn't say its hard but wouldn't call it easy either. yours is a bit of an odd one, have never seen the manual A/C controls on a JDM car before. Will make getting a replacement kit cheaper though since the whole A/C controller isn't needed. Should be able to find one like this with the button holes reversed. http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/CT24SU05-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-Car-Stereo-Double-Single-Din-Fascia-Panel-/351249305888?nav=SEARCH

Highly unlikely you'll find them anywhere in NZ unless second hand. AVOJDM is the only place I know of that does the fascia with the double dinn sized hole. Haven't actually seen any installs with that fascia so don't know how well it'll fit. http://www.avojdm.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_54_60&products_id=109 Any tablet will work but the only part that is the issue is when using the USB OTG cable the charging power is hugely limited. So you could get by using any tablet as long as the USB connection is only used for charging and not data. The reason the Nexus 7 tablets are so common is because a custom rom was developed to bypass the charging limit when using the data portion of the USB connection aswell. The rom can be altered on other tablets to achieve this but the custom Nexus 7 one is more than just the power fix. Does all sorts of background commands for switching certain modes when 12v power is stopped/started. Those are the screen sizes for a few tablets I calculated a while back when looking into using a different tablet myself Hole size (fascia) 180 x 119 (mm) Screen sizes (mm) Nexus 7 151 x 94 Galaxy tab A 8 163 x 122 Galaxy tab s 8.4 181 x 113 21.3 x 12.6 frame size Galaxy tab s2 8 163 x 122

Axle into rear diff. Quite hard to see. Video looked good on the camera but youtube screwed the quality up for some reason. I'm always on here on my phone anyway so vertical video be my jam.

My turn, is this more movement than it should have?Seems to be almost no movement when pushing vertically but when applying a twisting motion, not the direction of twist to turn the wheels, there's quite alot.

Pretty sure Rosssub knew the answer to that, think it was just the rear top hats that needed changing from memory. Thats fitment though, wouldn't have a clue if the struts themselves are any different. Imagine so. even just individual years had very different feel for the BL/BP models as they realised they didn't need to be rock hard so progressively got softer each year

I used whatever the imperial is thats between 3 and 4. Better to be tight than too loose.

BOV line for anything other than the TT Legacy setups.

You'll make the baby Jesus cry if you do..

Only problem is the standard fascia kit most of these use has been discontinued and one with a slightly different shape is available instead. You'll see some info on that in the last few pages of the first link. http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=21888 http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=30559 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cndnsd-2007-gt-si-cruise-bp5-244063.html?t=244063

You can't fit standard double dinns in the top area since they hit the beam behind as they're too deep. Could always keep the bottom radio and connect it up to a tablet install in the top hole. Can do some pretty cool stuff with a nexus 7 tablet

Yea the whiteline ones are notorious for their lateral movement. Got the whiteline locks on mine which seem to do the job, no real way for them not too. Very definately worth getting. Any brand that fits over that size bar will do though