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A_J_T

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Posts posted by A_J_T

  1. Ahh Rev-C it is, thats no fun. You can still log the Rev-C though so if you are feeling up to it try Romraider logger and go fro a drive. 

     

    Any boost gauge off trademe will give you an idea, sometimes the cheap ones are 1-2psi off but usually pretty good and fine for diagnostics. 

  2. Firstly, get a boost gauge. without one, you are flying blind and simply assuming. 

     

    It sounds like its fuel cutting due to over boosting. The boost solenoid is kept in the passenger l left-hand front wheel arch. make sure its plumbed and actually working.. also check to make sure the restrictor pill in the vac line coming off the wastegate actuator is in there. 

     

    Its a Rev-D so this is all tunable - Its unlikely but not impossible that nothing is wrong and someone has already had a play with the boost table.

     

    If you have a cable to log with install Romraider logger and view the MAP sensor - instead of going out and buying a boost gauge 

  3. 🤤 This is a build I've had in mind for a while due to its budget-friendliness. 

     

    The first-gen EZ30 is ideal for a bit of boost due to its single exhaust port heads, they were never awesome naturally asperated but boosted the less efficient head exits don't really cause drama and make it easy to fab up a custom turbo kit.  

     

    Here is what I would do if I was tackling this, hope it answers some of your questions. 

     

    • 250kw seems achievable but also it's going to be nice and torquey so even if you only get to 220-230kw it's still going to be an awesome streetcar. 
    • Id stick with the 5MT - going to the 6MT is not budget-friendly 
    • Stock ECU is fully tunable if its a Rev-D.. I would run the stock ECU and an external EBC 
    • Turbo - nice big Chinese eBay special. Something that flows nicely, it already has low down so later spooling is not a major IMO. 
    • STI Pink 500cc  injectors will get you there no problem.. and they fit straight in. 

     

    • Like 3
  4. So who from ClubSub are heading to the Sunday Meremere event? I've got a couple of you on Facebook that i can see are attending, so i'm looking forward to bumping into some familiar faces.. but keen to know who else i should be keeping an eye out for. Its nice to meet people face to face but on the day its impossible to know who relates to what username 😂

     

    I'll be there in a ratty silver B4 with a black bonnet so if you see me come say hi 👋

     

    Cheers,

    Aidin

    • Like 2
  5. Cheers for doing the research and posting this up, its really good info. This is one of those 'it all depends on the application' topics. 

     

    TLDR: I trust MCA's advince - They are based in our hemisphere and drive the same cars as we do on very simliar roads/tracks we do. 

     

    IMO: MCA is in a better position to be calling the shots. Whiteline make some good products but if i was going to take anyones word, it would be the chap that is passing on feedback directly from the man in the seat of the car. I've run MCA Coilovers and have no doubt they know what they are doing. If running their products take their advice. 

     

    On the flipside when running some generic BC or YellowSpeed Coilovers that dont nesaserily have spring rates tailored to your car, you may be able to create a better overall result with off the shelf items such as differnet bushings or swaybards. This is not the route I would take however.

     

    Furthermore! I think this is a humours topic in someways due to the fact that Swaybars are one of the common DIY driveway mods for street car enthousiats, its cute because arguably you are really just making your car less comfortable for the street. But we always do things like this to our delightful street cars anyway so i'm not pointing fingers, I've run Coilovers way to low and ruied ride comfort purily for easthetics... but i refuse to drop $200+ on swaybars that simply do not help the vehicle perform "better" but rather "differntly" on the street.  

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  6. Pop a vacuum line off the intake manifold and spray something that goes bang in there while cranking it. Brake cleaner works, if it fires and coughs then you have confirmed its fuel issue. If not then you can look more spark / electrical issues? Lots of good ideas here haha i'm keen to find out what it was in the end 😀

    I wouldn't be surprised if the injectors are just seized 

    • Like 1
  7. 20 minutes ago, newsuba said:

    hipster mobile with w**ker plate   😄

     

    V0Y2E0C.jpg

     

    A hipster Mobile that would walk all over whatever we are driving. IMO there is nothing wrong here.. someone chose a cool car and went to town on a custom wrap 

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1
  8. Hey mate,  its often hard to explain as people interpret things differently. However! here goes. From your image it looks like you have half completed the mod. 

     

    basically remove the hose that goes between the two T's and block off both T's 

     

    This page is also helpful, but its done on a Rev-D so pictures may look different than your engine bay https://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2017/01/s401-hose-10-mod/

     

     

    Its also worth mentioning that someone may have already played around in your engine bay so dont think its already plumbed correctly. Get a diagram up and go through it to make sure its all ok 

     

     

  9. 39 minutes ago, Joker said:

    Diesel switch.....

     

    Number plate Hider

     

    activates the Gull scarer to stop birds s***ting on your car

    all things my car needs 

    Motorcycles have numberplate hiders... I like to call them wheelies.. Hypothetically it works going through the northern toll gate. 

    • Haha 2
  10. I have this exact same button in the same location in my 04 Outback. I've had a brief play with it but never actually taken a good look at what it does. It makes a nice clicking noise so sometimes I play with it when on a long drive 😂but thats the only use i've found mine to be. I thought it was something to do with the toll gate card reader that was all through my import when I got it.. but now that I see its not a one-off i'm going to investigate further 

     

    kccSQyz.jpg

    • Haha 1
    • Confused 1
  11. 2 minutes ago, ACE3.0R said:

    @A_J_T do you have this part available from your outback? Does this get bolted in or welded?

    It just bolts on, it's on my wagon currently and it will stay there. My factory swaybar mounts have basically fallen off hence I got this. If I knew they were so weak with a standard swaybar I would have gotten one earlier... so highly recommend getting one for any BP/BL thats not at standard height. 

  12. If you are thinking of getting a Tactrix and want to try a cheaper option I've been dying to get one of these https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/meters-testers/listing-2315589830.htm?rsqid=9f07576579774b88b2d6d85e72e7899b-001

     

    Technically speaking it should work just fine as it runs the same FTDI FT232RL Chip as the Tactrix... I've been dying to try one. 

     

    Also when and if you get a cable that works PM me and I'm happy to guide you through the flash process, what cables need to be jumpered etc and making changes o your tune for lower octane. 

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