A_J_T

it is said that the Z495 is a slightly better fit but the Z79X will be fine

Rev-D runs different Compression ratio so your Link might need a tickle up although that would depend what heads and pistons you use i guess.. and no AVCS. Pretty sure it should work, Rosssub on here will be able to help confirm if it is a viable swap. Also this probably isn’t the best location for this question, next time try throwing it in Forum > Technical Questions > Legacy you will get alot more traffic and assistance for sure. ahh cheeky little moderators have moved it for ya now – Chur

I like this alot, dont get to see many subaru doing this.

Ahh fair enough, still having trouble? Its a bit fiddly to get to, it is located just below the Throttle body to your left if your standing in front of the car. some people say removing the Throttle body can give you more room to work with but idk. Also this could help: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t117669-diy-changing-knock-sensor.html

Pretty sure that top picture is a G1 not G3, and it links back to this discussion on the Linkecu Forums. http://www.linkecu.com/forums/lem/365138707 Post #7 first image is your picture. so that brings you back to if the ECU in question does indeed look just like the picture or not.

Go Here and download This Go to page 137. Chur

Cool cool, ill get them pressure tested and if all comes out ok ill slap them back on and forget i ever saw the cracks.

So providing they pass testing you would use them? feels so wrong, somthing like that could/should only get worse? [quote name='evowrx said: Just twist brians arm for the v8 sti longblock...get an ecu and play happy families. Ive probably got all the loom plugs you need for conversion. Yes this will happen one day just not today haha, i do not have the coin.

One of my heads has cracks on both spark plug holes protruding towards the valve seats. I’ve been reading around about this issue and it does appear to be rather common. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2012107 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2269015 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2435567 What are everyone’s thoughts on these apparently common cracks? So far my options appear to be ignore and continue or find a replacement head/s.

Have a look through the Classifieds. There is a VF28 in there http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?46145-FS-VF28-turbo-AKL which would probably do the trick What happened after fixing the above leaks ^

Should sticky this if we can, cheeky thing was hiding 4 pages back.

Ahh yes wasn't sure if you were going down or not, been meaning to look into the Flat-nats myself but im not as organized as you lot. Trailer is a good idea for sure, hope it all works out for ya.

Haha yea that chubby BE needs to get out and about. why is it going on a trailer anyway?

This made my day haha, perks of living in the rural land where everyone knows everyone. Damn how much does that fat old GF8 weigh? Put it on the weighbridge while your at it lol

What’s the total weight limit you’re going for, 2000kg?

like 500-700kg tare weight maybe? idk... depending on the trailer as Joker said. If you have one and just want to know the weight then go throw it on the weighbridge at Grainco grain plant. they are going flat out drying maze atm so there is someone there 24/7.. Have a chat to whoever is there at the time and they will let you drive on and give you an actual weight.

Chur will do, thanks

If they are in mint condition just add them to my pile of stuff. Whatchu want with the old ones? Thanks for the link Ross.

BE5 EJ208 two dead engine mounts. I’m assuming most WRX/Legacy engine mounts are the same or similar according to year etc but I can’t seem to find anything for pre 2002. Found these group N ones but they look different to the ones on it atm and are also out of stock on Partsouq LH STi Group N Engine Mount RH STi Group N Engine Mount ST4100055110 ST4100055120 Anyone got any suggestions or go 3rd party aftermarket maybe?

Hey Clint, the AEM WB doesn't need calibrating at all if its used standalone yea?

Good to see everything getting a good check over. Regarding the 4k gear change and boost hitting 0 then raising as in your video.. I'm standing by what I've previously said. 4k is bang on where it starts considering bringing the secondary online. I experience the exact same result in mine when changing consistently on or close to k4 rpm. When i first got my car i though it was the rudest thing. After owning it and driving it for 4 years i learnt how it responded and where to use the power and avoiding the VOD just became second nature. i actually have a love hate opinion on the twin setup and think it is pretty sweet when setup and running nicely. You can drive it very sedate and have all the down low you need to get the job done, just change before 4k. If you want to get on it then change at 5k minimum. id be keen to see a video of you just pinning it.. What’s the lag like coming back on boost between shifts once in Twin mode etc. also if you change at like 3.6k or near do you get the same lag between shifts or is it only when changing closer to 4k. That all being said who knows maybe mine had issues all this time and I just delt with it haha I’m not sure dude. Ross what do you think regarding the gear shift at 4k and that video? I’m on my way to ST now but always fascinated by the TT setup.

Seems anywhere from mid 80c to high 90s is fine. i read somewhere that its healthy to have it hit 100c now and then to burn off deposits and accumulated water vapor etc but no idea how fact that was and if its needed. someone on here more knowledgeable with real world experience will chime in shortly.

+1 Mine would do that when all i could get was 95 and the weather was warmer. it will be going into limp mode due to knock detection. Limp mode on mine would simply limit boost to 7psi. no Cel nothing.

It didn’t start when you did the hose 1 mod did it? Could have a play around with that and see if it’s related. I doubt its causing anything but still if you didn’t think it had an effect then remove the pill. Honestly it just sounds like your getting tangled up in the VOD/change over.

Has this suddenly just started happening, or has it always been there? I noticed you did the Silicone TMIC pipes not long ago so this could have had some effect on it I guess. Mine has always done it before and after breathing mods. Do you have any CEL popping up at all? If it was an o2 sensor it would usually throw out a CEL