jost

I have used similar ones off ebay and were all good, If the op wants one i have a good used one here, $40 delivered

So i think i fixed this actual car today, facelift BE, was at my mates shop, was a dodgy alternator, the signal from the alternator to the ecu looked really nasty on the scope.

Sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere, possibly signs of the brake booster failing.

Also this one would work, Just get a neck with cap welded on or use an inline one in top hose http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/radiators/auction-612833626.htm

looks like you may need a D2S? if you have projector HID then it will be.

I haven\'t had any issues with ebay ones, about $15 each and have had in for over a year so far, Only downside is the waiting time, What are your bulbs? I have a spare factory D2R here (Philips German) you can have for postage costs. At least it would get them working until ebay bulbs arrive

Standard black spray paint, i actually like the warehouse stuff, sprays nicely, cheap and leaves a reasonable finish, just do light coats and you won\'t have any blockages.

Possibly but most likely not, most of the parts are just shipped out of the country to other parts of the world where people don\'t care where the parts come from so microdots wouldn\'t make much of a difference.

Talked to A1 radiators today, they said they need specific dimensions but would be around $400.

send the company i gave a link to with auction listing a message, tell them you want that style but 40mm, they make them and can build to suit, you just have to ask.

Any place that sells panel beating supplies will have them, just take one in for a sample.

Crappy old 2.2l legacy, pulled a really noisy gearbox missing anything above 2nd and put a new box in it, Thought this is great, gave it lots of shit, ten mins later wondered why it was getting louder, pulled over and gearbox locked up. Being a dumb ass i had forgotten to put oil in it.

yeah all the locks and other bits are the same, the later ones have a larger side intrusion bar so can be a pain in the ass to get to the back of the locks though.

Yeah both can be a bit weak but cheaper to keep replacing phase 1 diffs rather than phase 2 ones.

If you plan on giving it a hard time change the entire rear end to a phase 1, they are more forgiving (and cheaper)

Yeah the bits will fit, the turbo front bumpers have the vacuum airline attached to the back and bumper iron varies slightly but will swap over fine, Those bits on rear sills are anti burst locaters designed to stop doors opening in impact.

RSK B4 with 60,000km, owner in Japan stuck the below cheap nasty oil filter on it and a few days later BEB Failure.

Here is a factory type, only 16mm thick though http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/radiators-cooling-systems/auction-606482226.htm This one may be able to be fitted with some minor changes? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/radiators-cooling-systems/auction-606482220.htm Otherwise send them a message and ask what they can supply.

Yeah that\'s basically my point, if the car is currently a non Sti V2 then the auto motor will be fine for a standard replacement maybe with a few upgrades for a few extra HP, if he is wanting to start chasing greater power then going forged is the answer but again it depends on intent and budget.

Yeah the manuals use a different waterpump with an additional water line to run to the sandwich plate on the oil filter which you can retrofit to an auto motor by swapping over the coolant lines and using a manual waterpump.

if he runs the auto long block and uses his original manifolds and turbo with his factory ecu it will be fine, the only issues may arise if later he wants to extract a lot more power, It all comes down to what the plan is, if he wants to make it useable without spending lots of money then the auto motor will be a good cheap option, if he wants to start extracting lots more power straight away then maybe a conversion to a V5/V6 Sti would be better, but again it depends on plans/budget.

Now the one thing that hasn\'t been confirmed is what is the car? is it an Sti or is it just a standard WRX? He only mentioned looking at a V2 Sti motor and then the second one he mentioned is a standard non Sti motor. I\'m not sure about the compression differences, i have done a few swaps with putting ex auto engines into manual cars and noticed absolutely no difference to the original manual motors as far as performance goes. The one thing is that i find generally the auto ones have had a better life and not been thrashed as much, possibly a combination between different ecu/tunes and the lack of control with an auto that you have with a manual.

That\'s about the only way to do it, my ace was awesome, was a piddly 2 cylinder one but with a 10k rev limit it absolutely flew. Awesome fun but just wore out unfortunately. Now on the hunt for a sambar.

Yeah most likely turbo coolant hose will have a small split, will only leak under high pressure when driving, and won\'t be obvious when idling, Won\'t be external gasket leaks, That only applies to the later EJ251 SOHC motors.

wavetech do cheap pre-made spacers, Just incase you are not too user friendly with a jigsaw (my circles tend to look like deformed eggs)