Dairusire
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Posts posted by Dairusire
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I bought myself an engine. Specifically the sleeved 2.2L stroked to 2.35L that was for sale on here. I'm now sending it to SAS for a freshen up. Will run my v8 Spec C heads on it, rather than the v4 STi heads. Will get some cams for it too.
@Niran Who's gonna hit 400kw first bb
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33 minutes ago, boon said:
I'm 99% sure they're just a Defi 2-bar gauge.
Actually, I don't think it is. I've been searching some of those photos and they look to be from what I can find, a gauge with SUBARU written on them. It might be a defi gauge, but with subaru branding however.
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3 minutes ago, McMatty said:
In the end she was told she owes me $3350 and she has done a runner, I'm at the point where its really worn me out and I don't know whether its worth continuing to fight for it, its been months now and nothing
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To be perfectly honest, I'd chase that. $3350 is a bunch of money. That's a big old EFR spooly boi, or half a forged engine build. Maybe even paying someone to chase her down and get the things you need without you having to do the leg work is a good move?It's up to you, but I'd chase them simply on principle. s***, I did it for $75 to vodafone, because screw them for trying to ruin my credit.
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So, I'm curious but did you end up getting a resolution?
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14 minutes ago, Joker said:
never thought you could get eye cancer from a video : well.......
Good god wtf.
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1 hour ago, Niran said:
Cheers @swamp !
The RS4 is an amazing machine. I mean the crazy thing is, its a $160k car that has depreciated so much, just about the average Joe can buy one now. Albeit hopefully not having to encounter any crazy maintenance costs!
In the car with windows down, revving to 8000rpm, hearing the angry v8 sing. Its pretty dam amazing!
Still i'm too scared of RS4 maintenance costs, and can't afford both cars, so will be selling it before my 800hp build is done sadly. Glad to have experienced such a cool car though!
Wait, 800HP? Thought you said you were gonna go for 450-500KW? Not 600 hahaha.
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Well, I haaaave sold my black GC8 shell to @SAS aka Richard, to be turned into a rally car.
He's taken down my STi headers, my holset and downpipe with twin wastegates and make me up a naaaaice twinscroll twisted turbo setup. I am much excited.
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ouch! That sucks to hear. Did your mechanic offer any recompense if the gearbox fails? Because honestly that really is on them.
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Hey Y'all @SAS is doing a trip up from Christchurch to Auckland either this weekend or next to come pick up this WRX STi shell of mine and has a spare spot on his trailer coming up the country.
Cost is $450. Cheers.
EDIT: Wrong thread sorry.
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Hey Y'all @SAS is doing a trip up from Christchurch to Auckland either this weekend or next to come pick up this WRX STi shell of mine and has a spare spot on his trailer coming up the country.
Cost is $450. Cheers.
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Haha nah the rears were already done when I got them. Fronts mustve been on the way out and putting them on last mustve been the one to send it home so to speak.
With that track record it sounds like it's more of a you problem than a Brembo problem
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That is a big ooofff. What's the game plan now?My rally car decided on the weekend that it had a grudge against two of the exhaust valves, and one piston, both lost the fight, and so did my wallet...
That last pic is not the sump plug, it was in fact the spark plug from cylinder one..
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15 hours ago, Niran said:
Won't be keeping her for long but enough to stop this RS4 itch I've had.
That's not how this works
You'll either get over it quickly or you won't want to sell it haha.-
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While there's still a good 12kw bump in power, the noticeable difference will be that torque increase. Nice healthy increase there.Tune up with e30... mainly for safety when using anti lag... but there were some reasonable gains for not having to do anything more than mix the fuel and pay for 2.5 hours on the dyno.
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Yep it is. I have it in the rear brakes already in all four bolt holes. Just gotta do all four for the fronts now.helicoil strong enough for brake calipers?
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You know what's a car crime? Brembo and their crappy decision to not use a steel insert in their complete alloy calipers.
Over torqued it a bit? They a bit old and weary? Guess what. You now get to strip out your $1000 brakes...
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3 minutes ago, Gripless said:
You have a small boost leak 🔨
also metal ready from POR15 on that belt pulley will clean and stop rust. Zinc phosphoric acid from Bunnings is cheap too.
haha yeah I had it off to spray some start ya bastard in it, as it currently doesn't have any fuel lines running to the tank but I wanted to make sure it actually kicked over (which it did thankfully).
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Fixed the 'new' cars ECU power problem. Turned out to be a fuse, but because it was missed the first time around things had been pulled and essentially was in a worse state than it began (wasn't myself), so after figuring out exactly what goes where and how things are powered, I traced the issue back to the fuse. Regardless, the wiring of these cars is freaking bonkers are no wonder theres so much un-needed wiring in there.
Made a thread about it here.
Next thing to do on my list is to do fuel lines in the rear of the car.
Going to do -8 feed and -6 return, and while I'm at it, figure out a double pumper solution using stock hanger. Because I can.
Also, car photo tax.
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So, because this was a PITA for me, I'm sharing the knowledge I've gleaned from this. Anyone else is welcome to fill in the blanks that I've missed.
In short the V3/4 I bought had an issue with ECU not starting.
Now yes the issue is now fixed, and I found what my problem was. It was a fuse short. Apparently I missed it on the first pass. Somehow.
In any case, if you have the same issue as I did, where a car will turn over, dash will light up, but fuel pump won't prime and lastly the ECU won't turn on, don't go start pulling this apart to find the issue. Just check Fuse #11 in the drivers (RHD) side fuse box
The bottom plugs in this image are the ones you're looking for. 3 plugs.
EJ20K
Input
112 Green Signal wire to relay that switches on ECU power on pin 113 (not joking)
113 actual switched ECU power that turns ECU on114 ECU Circuit power
111 Ignition SW
37 Airflow sensor signal
36 Airflow sensor ground
38 O2 Sensor
33 crank angle sensor +
34 crank angle sensor ground
35 cam angle sensor
40 water temp sensor
39 knock sensor
48 throttle sensor power
46 throttle sensor signal
45 absolute pressure sensor
22 car speed sensor
43 exhaust noise sensor 1
31 Air conditioner SW
23 Starter SW
32 Neutral SW
115 sensor-type ground
105 injector ground
110 power type ground
116 ??
106 ignition ground
24 intake temperature sensor
28 intercooler spray auto SW
7:44
output104 injector #1
101 injector #2
102 injector #3
103 injector #4
1 ignition signal 1,2
2 ignition signal 3,4
107 IDC valve open
108 IDC valve close
26 canister purge solenoid
8 ? pressure solenoid
5 atmosphere switch solenoid
17 radiator fan relay 1
25 radiator fan relay 2
4 fuel pump relay
11 aircon relay
3 check engine lamp
12 exhaust sound warning lamp
27 engine rotation signal
20 select monitor send
21 select monitor receive
41 test mode connector
42 reed (lead?) memory connector
30 AT ?
18 AT air amountSo if you've checked the fuse and thats fine or you've replaced it and it's still not working, check the relay.
The relay is located under the dash, to the right of the go go juice pedal, and is brown. Photo below for context.
Now, the wires coming into the relay are
2x black with red stripe down the middle (permanent 12-14v live)
1x Yellow w/ light blue down middle (switched 12-14v to ECU from Relay)
1x Yellow w/ red stripe down middle (switched 12-14v to I assume Fuel pump relay? I don't know.)
1x Green wire (switching signal to turn off/on relay from ECU)
1x Black wire (ground)
Now, I have ZERO clue as to why Subaru insisted doing it the way they have. Essentially there is switched power from the ignition, which runs through fuse 11, that goes to the ECU on pin 114, that then turns on the signal wire on 112 so it can switch ON the relay and send power back to the ECU on Pin 113....
Yeah. So there's that 0.oEnjoy your misery ????
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It honestly looks SUV sized. Like maybe, but it seems to be too large for a WRX HatchCould this be the WRX Hatch making a comeback? I would be so thrilled to see it make a return. Looks pretty cool too. They also have an off road version which is kinda like the gravel express or XV imprezas
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In short, I did a thing and Bought @Furze car, CHOPDU. It's been sitting for a while, unfortunately, as it's had a few electrical issues and as such projects need to move on. SO! It's going to get stripped and parted. While I'm certain I could fix it and get it back up and running in no-time, I don't have the funds to keep it (which I very much so want to).
So, as such, I'm picking it up this weekend and next week I'll begin the process of take all the parts off it to get ready for sale.
There are a few goodies I'll be taking my way and with that the RA gets an upgrade!Things to change over are
- v7 STi 207 w/ Supertech dual valve springs
- Spec C intake manifold (no TGVs!!)
- Murch HX35 turbo setup
- MCA Red custom valved suspension
- 114.3 hubs (swapping these as they were recently replaced with new bearings on all corners)
- Dixcel Z Type Pads (F/R) and Dixcel slotted rotors (F/R)
- Oil catch tank setup
Everything else is going and I'll have a TON of work to do.
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On 8/01/2020 at 6:41 PM, Shibe said:
This is currently listed local. The owner may even be on ClubSUB?
It's super tidy and seems like it's a very good buy. I don't have much idea about Version 2 STI's, especially wagons. Thoughts?
It looks quite nice. It may or may not have a closed deck engine, since it was rebuilt too and the price isn't bad.
Only issue with that era car, is you're limited in terms of mods, as phase one engine. Give it a good once over at a mechanics on a hoist.
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the two washers to the best of my knowledge one should go on top and the other on the bottom. Flick me a PM on facebook or something and remind me at about 5:30pm to take a photo for you. Before I drive to welly tonight haha.
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1 hour ago, boon said:
Devil's advocate? Putting in a G4+ and getting it tuned won't see any change from about $2500. Lot of money to throw at a car that literally won't make it any faster than a boost tap would.
Get a VF23/24 (or even a VF30) and a STI ECU and set of yellows as above. About the best you're going to get out of it; you're so limited by about 20 different things that make a G4+ not worth the investment unless you have big big plans down the road.
While I don't disagree with you, because honestly, the money factor you're spot on. I can't say I completely agree with the statement either?
There is most certainly bonuses to going either route. There is however, downsides to them both as well.
Cost is certainly the top factor. So lets start here.
Stock STi upgrade.The good:
Good well rounded package that gives you extra punch at quite a reasonable price.
simple upgrade route. other than bolting/plugging in what you've been given, that is it. Hard to stuff up.The not so good:
you are talking about old injectors, and old ECU tech. My suggestion if you want to go this route is to make sure everything is cleaned and tested, for example. Have the injectors cleaned and flow tested, and make sure the ECU you're buying HASN'T been opened (theres a factory seal on em). Wouldn't be the first time someones tried to hock off a faulty ECU because they didn't know what blew up their engine, so parted out.G4+ upgrade route
The good:you can get plug-in ECU for your gen car! Makes putting in an ECU very very easy. There are also second hand ones coming up for sale all the time. Often in the $800 ballpark, so try not to pay more than this if you're buying second hand. They also have lifetime warranty.
It opens up aftermarket parts for your car that simply put, the factory ECU cannot handle. ECU controlled widebands, Flex fuel, better knock control, anti-lag /2 step / launch control / automatic DCCD control / logging
You want extra sensors? You can add them. You want an AVCS engine from GRB? You can do it (with doing some wiring of course)
Downsides.
Brand new it's much more expensive than the cheaper STi upgrades. Plus the factor of professional tuning. Theres no doubt what Boon has said is right.
You will need to get the car tuned, be it by someone like @Pappu1 or @SAS OR if you're quite savvy and have patience to learn how to tune yourself, properly, you could buy a course package from the likes of HP Academy, where you'll learn the ins and outs of tuning. Then you can tune that puppy all by yourself.
Summary:
You need to think intensely about if you want to do more things in the future or just keep the car as is.
If you want to do things the stock (or STi) ECU can't handle, then honestly a Link or Haltech may be your best move long term.
If you just want to give it a freshen up and some more punch, then the STi upgrades are definitely a winner.
Regardless, if you do the STi upgrade and then decide 'hey I want more' theres absolutely nothing stopping you from getting that Link anyway and still getting more power than you would've originally.
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Who's Online 1 Member, 1 Anonymous, 108 Guests (See full list)
What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
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Nah I straight up don't want 500kw haha. Fairly certain a GC8 would be from wtf this is fast at 400kw, to "I'm going to die in this car" at 500kw.