kamineko

so.. plugs....OK coils....swapped OK ignitior...have you removed a spark plug, stuck it into the plugged in coil, earthed the base of the spark plug on the engine while cranking, to check for good spark as Rossub suggested? (protip, also unplug injectors on cylinders missing a spark plug or fuel mist will be sprayed around) assuming no spark from either cylinder, assuming ignitor is OK because you're using a known good one -> check wiring from coil to ignitor -> check wiring from ECU to ignitor -> check ECU

Good advice from GC8E2DD Even try some 2nd hand rotors from the wreckers, or get the current ones machined. You want to find out why they are distorting before you ruin new expensive parts. I found out the hard way that worn front wheel bearings killed my new DBA's in a morning session

not entirely sure that's an RA engine, V2 STI more likely

How to turbo my Dads '94 TS wagon. lol Ray & Rics classic front windscreen banners in Dunners DIY 'how to' meets (brakes etc) so we can spread good education I lurked for bloody ages (years) before turning up for a meet. Guess I was shy with so many cool cats around Forum bugs, my 2500 unread PMs and that Comcom type discussions have ended up in PM's rather than documented on the board somewhere Enough cash in my bank account come renewal time I'm mostly responsible for the large number of subforums, but it hasn't worked and needs to be simplified after some decent planning. Yes Becca, ya told me so.

Really good documentation here, thanks for the continued contribution

i've got the old club documents in storage. ill have a look this weekend and see if anything is worth putting up

I think that defeats the purpose, you want to remove the turbo-generated heat from the coolant eh?

lol, CHECK the plugs, then replace if needed

Not to be a buzzkill but I'm skeptical as to how moving it away from the cam pully would help a faulty sensor. Normally the failure mode is an open or intermittent soldered joint inside the molded plastic, or crap on the sensor face. I wonder if the process of refitting the sensor is adding a few more weeks to its life. (I used to have someone crank the engine while I wiggled the sensor just to get a dead sensor to work long enough to start) Different models seem to display different symptoms. Earlier Subys simply won't start with a bad cam sensor and it seems the newage+ are more sensitive and bring up CEL's while driving which may disable the variable valve timing system. My brothers V7 STI drove poorly with intermittent CELS until he replaced an iffy cam sensor. I will attack a sensor in the weekend and take some pics

subscribed. would that npt adapter be similar to whats already used on the factory oil pressure switch?

Ok thanks Ross. I'll measure the spring and go from there

I recently cleaned and refitted my EJ20G oil pump however I was browsing some Japanese blog and found these pictures of things he'd replaced Is the shiny wear detrimental to the pump's operation? I assume that part regulates the oil pressure.

OK think I understand this now [table=class: grid] [tr][td]Model[/td][td]Fronts[/td][td]Rears[/td][td]Diff[/td][td]Rear Rotor[/td][td]Rear Rotor Size[/td][td]Rear Rotor Part#[/td][td]Rear Baking Plate Part#[/td][/tr] [tr][td]JDM BD/BG turbo[/td][td]2pot sliding[/td][td]1pot sliding[/td][td]R160[/td][td]solid[/td][td]266x18(170)mm[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]JDM BE/BH[/td][td]2pot sliding[/td][td]1pot sliding[/td][td]R160[/td][td]solid[/td][td]290x10(170)mm[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]JDM BE/BH RS/GTB RS30[/td][td]2pot sliding[/td][td]1pot sliding[/td][td]R160[/td][td]vented[/td][td]290x18(170)mm[/td][td]26700AE030 / DBA653[/td][td]26704AE020 & AE030[/td][/tr] [tr][td]JDM GDA WRX NA / NB[/td][td]2pot sliding[/td][td]1pot sliding[/td][td]R160[/td][td]solid[/td][td]266x10(170)mm[/td][td]26310AA051[/td][td]26255AA061 & AA071[/td][/tr] [tr][td]JDM GDAC WRX NB-R[/td][td]4pot[/td][td]2pot[/td][td]R160[/td][td]vented[/td][td]290x18(170)mm[/td][td]26700AE030 / DBA653[/td][td]26704FE090 & FE080[/td][/tr] [tr][td]JDM GDB STI Sedan[/td][td]4pot gold brembos[/td][td]2pot gold brembos[/td][td]R180[/td][td]vented[/td][td]316x20(190)mm[/td][td]26700FE000[/td][td]26704FE000 & FE010[/td][/tr] [tr][td]JDM GGB STI Wagon[/td][td]4pot[/td][td]2pot[/td][td]R180[/td][td]vented[/td][td]290x18(190)mm[/td][td]26710FA130 / DBA656[/td][td]26704FE020 & FE030[/td][/tr] [/table]

remind me to take a picture of how to repair these suckers

this is probably irrelevant but I was looking at a slightly different shifter mechanism used in the BE/BH legacy today. where did the box come from?

ouch.. wouldn't it be cheaper / easier exercise to have the part welded back on in situ?

do you have a link to 'air bag thing'? is it an air bag delete? if so, before CS jumps on the parental bandwagon, maybe explain to your actual parents that you are removing the airbag and see what they say

I remember in my younger years when I wanted to slap a turbo on dads 2L NA it sounds like a simple plan until you understand why it isn't easy/worthwhile/economic. so really there's no harm discussing these things EDIT ok I just read the EJ15+T thread.. yeah.. nahh.. lol

I don't have a link, but give Crowesport (CHCH) a call. They fitted ours and would know about any option for 1.5L converting to DOHC sounds like an interesting idea HOWEVER there is more to it than just slapping on some heads. To be honest any increase would be marginal without a tune, and a wasted effort. Oscar in DN just DOHC'd a 2.2L for fun but he had to get specific headgaskets from the states and I'm not sure it was worthwhile in the end. Have to ask him. I'm not even sure any DOHC head would physically fit an ej15

EJ154 Horsepower: 100 PS (74 kW; 99 bhp) at 5,200 rpm Torque: 142.0 N·m (105 lb·ft) at 4,000 rpm phwwwoaaaarrr I was probably thinking of some lean-burn variant...

no experience with the EJ15 however you could de-cat and fit extractors. it'll be louder, and loose a little low end torque, but be more fun higher in the rev range. worked well on our DOHC NA EJ20 you didn't mention what year. arn't some of the newer 1.5's pretty trick? maybe i'm dreaming

that would generally indicate an open diff which is pretty common. what version RA is it? only a few specific models had the helical as factory fitment. do you have a gearbox code? just to add, the wheel spin test only works if the diff has a preload. i'm not sure that applies to a helical. which is probably why you are asking...

laptimes updated and back online not sure how to fix the double spacing yet but meh

have directed reuben here.. interesting thread

yeah i have this issue occasionally, usually after long periods of being parked up. always gives me a fright though!