kamineko

yup! lol unplug the connector going to the fuel pump and start the car (well, turn the engine over) then remove the petrol fill cap to release tank pressure good to go!

ok thats Version 2 your factory inline bov sits between the topmost red circle and where the clamped bolt is the vacuum line to the bov comes from the middle of the manifold the random tube sticking out in the right hand circle should be the return from the wastegate solenoid.. but you should just be able to block that off at the moment (right hand circle) metal pipe is aftermarket. this is the factory bov: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Engines/auction-203031005.htm

Good work! What i'd mention is before opening the lid, brush off and vacuum out all the dust and rubbish! the one in the pics is clean enough to eat off - compared to what i've seen! you certainly dont want a pile of dirt in your fuel tank also if you damage the small fuel hose link, remember to replace with fuel-rated hose!

im not happy with this statement.. first off, regarding light, surface colours don't attract, they absorb secondly a silver/shiny/bright surface or paint will reflect thermal radiation better than a dark surface.

depends what ecu u want to use, and what model car your starting with.. specifics??

sweet. remember the new HIGH STOP LIGHT you'll need ;p po-po will issue a fine, they KNOW you removed the spoiler. my brother's been pulled over for it, mainly because the policeman thought his wrx looked gay without the spoiler haha

in a GC8 you connect the black and green pairs of plugs, start the car, and drive constantly untill u get an even CEL flash. if you get another code spat back at you, the ECU still isn't happy with that sensor or whatever. if its even flashing, its all clear, u turn off the engine and unplug. all done.

yep however your not going to clear your codes when a problem persists

it may not be the sensor then, it may be the wiring or a connection

lo found this on the 2000 clubsub website ;p

don't go picking fights lol. you know no EJ20G leggy came with an air-to-air

rules and regs discussion split and moved to Legal

there is no best way.. in the past i've cut circles out of the supercheapauto coloured racing tape, that works for awhile ok well the 'best' way is to have the holes welded up, resurfaced and painted or find a spoiler-less boot and use that sorry i havnt answered the rust question. probably a lot of hard work ;p a painter might have some advice

This topic has been moved to Legal. [iurl]http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=208.0[/iurl]

gives you the look :-\ between posting and pm'ing i seriously have not stopped typing on this site today lol ... huur well that was a good hour.. and your steveh account is blocked hahaha

I believe Leith means he is employed by a respectable company doing respectable work. anyway I've just been had a quick looksee at the skid marks... and driving past i cant make much sense of it.. the angle of the skids into the sidewalk seem to be at the wrong angle... something very odd happened.. was talking to my bro about it.. we reckon it may have been a white fozzy or wrx hatch. there just arn't many white legacies that boost around like that in town

haha its ok. we can make exceptions lol

yep, but somewhere in that sequence you still need to press the remote key unlock button.. otherwise anyone could re-program your door

*looks* like that is the wastegate solenoid bleed/return it should go from the bottom of the thing with red sticker in the pic, to the side of the intake baffle box thats just prior to the turbo hose it shouldn't cause u so much trouble tho, so its quite possible your AFM is indeed at fault. it may be a cracked solder joint which is fixable, or it could be reading lean

i agree, i have a v2. somewhere around 100-120kmh. will go check out the skid marks more bad rep for us subby drivers.. gonna have to keep it real quiet for the next while

well its been pretty busy on the forum already, and everyone is happy and in a good mood. people causing trouble will be pretty obvious. peace and love! lol

second hand. you buy it as a replacement shaft including the cv joints and just swap it over. pretty simple exercise, axle nut off, separate the hub from an arm or 2 to allow it to angle away and pull off from the cv punch the pin on the inner cv allowing it to slide off the front diff axle stub. repeat in reverse order with replacement halfshaft/cvs

oh yaar. i keep forgetting that option ;p i needed to angle grid both front cv's off last time i tried this :

can be done backyard style but it can be a right pain to remove the cv off the half-shaft. do you have tools including a puller? save yourself some grief lol ask some mechanics for a quote

1996 spans two different engine models, older v2 model has smaller angled intercooler, v3 has larger straight rectangular one. they do have different blow off valves, the v2 is an inline one above the turbo the v3 is a right angle type that sits below the i/c on the passenger side newer models v5+ have a bov that bolts onto the i/c you can pretty much make any aftermarket bov fit/work with some playing around, but they need to be tuned just right or your performance will suffer. try a wreckers for a 2nd hand one