kamineko

i run a 2.5L BG radiator in my GC but i believe the 2.0L is the same. if you buy from a wrecker they will know what fits if you\'re auto you will need an auto radiator, they incorporate a tranny-cooler on the side. either version works for manual though.

negative, K designation is not STI specific

dicks! just myself and Oscar. lol

will be there around 720~730

updated! thanks for posting times

the RA never had a spoiler. TROLLED :P the STI RA spoiler is no different to the STI spoiler of the same year. sti version 2/3 look just like the one in link posted above

have a read of this http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,74.0.html the same outcome, essentially

if your existing legacy shaft is from a manual, use that?

as long as the silicon is thick enough that vacuum wont suck it together, and the internal diameter is the same - i don\'t see why not. make sure to retain any restrictor pills. there are a few in the TT system, marked with a dot of paint

just an idea that\'s easy to check, make sure the chassis loom -> engine loom plugs behind the battery are firmly connected. also has the TPS wiring may have been extended? maybe pull the insulation back and check that\'s been done properly

so that was correct and we can file it away for next time?

hokay watched your 2nd vid still unusual shape. do you think its worn on the angle inside there? disregard my question about using the 2nd hand one. i see that you have. you tested 3 positions of the syncro hub ring but if you flip the ring you can try the other 3. if none work, was it the original pair? try polishing/abusing the grooves with a wire brush wheel on a drill so you do have all gears working now? i might be out of sync with where you are at. been a long day

i\'ll go first: wtf! looks like damage from a very poor installation previously, not wear and tear...? could that dformed part have been manufactured wrongly? it looks so very wrong tomorrow i will have a look at/pull apart my spare you couldn\'t use the whole 2nd hand unit you got from the wreckers? i\'m still frowning :-\

i wonder if we will see more youtube technical questions in the future.. a) how the heck did you remove the bearing part, i thought it was welded in b) have you tried all orientations of the selector hub ring?

hokay. the dial is working well. the wires to the dccd are also accessible at the harness connection under the topmount intercooler, same plug as reverse and neutral switches. so.. going by a version 1/2 pdf wiring diagram, its 6pin plug B92 this is a guess, but should give you an idea. you can rule out the rev and neutral switches by selecting and testing _-_ 123 456 PLUG FACE pin - colour - function 1 ? dccd coil? 2 lightgreen with yellow neutral switch 3 black with yellow reverse switch 4 ? dccd coil? 5 black with red neutral 6 brown with yellow reverse switch

handbrake on negates the diff lock. it sets it free. if your hand brake is stuck on, the hand brake light will remain lit on the dash. have you checked the wiring/coil?

from under the car unplug the coil itself and check resistance between the coil and the gearbox housing. the coil should be completely isolated from the gearbox housing. if thats ok, also unplug the controller from the loom (somewhere above a drivers right knee) and check the supply side of the plug to the coil at the gearbox for the same, as Optical suggests. theory - at diff-free the dccd controller is limiting current through a high resistance short but as you increase the lock you may be hearing the controller struggling through the radio until the fuse blows. my money is on the connection to the diff inside the transfer case being worn and earthing out. you could pull this apart and fix but its a fair amount of work

it could be. seems it was still stuck to the case in this picture? just guessing here, don\'t have my pictures on hand to check #30 also looks like a simiar part? um yeah can\'t tell you what will happen if you omit that part but everything in the box is put there for a reason

what i would probably do first is unplug the dial. reset the car ignition and see if the flash comes up immediately. if it seems happy only with the dial connected and in diff-free then maybe test the dial. its just set up as a simple voltage divider and is wired with 0 and 5volts it would be nice and easy if this is the issue, but blown fuse earlier probably points to a more serious issue elsewhere was this a factory fitted dccd?

normally a flashing dccd light means a coil fault. but it might be a faulty dial, or wiring to the dial. a fault there can also result in an error flash somewhere i think there is a diag procedure/ flash codes but i\'m lazy to look for it ;p

good score. i\'ve seen a few variants of the same part, should work fine though. pull it apart and give a good clean first. while its in bits and in your hands, slide the selector ring over the new hub and find the orientation with the least friction. over time these two parts will wear into each other. it might be ok. depends how much abuse 5th has seen i guess. i found mine was a little distorted and only slid freely in one orientation there will be 6 total orientations you can try. 3 positions at 120 degrees and 3 again, inverted. the small clips ONLY fit in the slightly wider grooves on the inside of the ring. ask if this doesn\'t make sense but should become obvious you can also choose the best brass syncro rings out of the pair. better should have sharper teeth

nice any other times from the recent DOBC day? what was Joe/Wildturkey doing? i\'ll update next i\'m home

this is the very last bearing set inside the selector hub in this picture? it doesn\'t do much work, my understanding is it holds that weird shaped bracket that prevents the selector ring assembly floating away when reverse is selected. i\'ve always found them to be fairly loose. of course if it appears damaged then look for a 2nd hand one - i\'m not sure its a serviceable part there is a thin removable circlip holding the bracket to the bearing, you can remove for closer inspection just the reverse order of disassembly. keep in mind the 2 splines on the driven shaft need to mesh inside the diff. you may need to rotate the front stubs and rear driveshaft stub a little to assist. it\'ll be obvious when the case mates up nicely to the main housing when you get it right. the gearshift linkage can be tricky, make sure the gearbox is in neutral and you should be able to hook into the selector rods before the case mates fully with the main housing. when wiggling the linkage against the hooks, the mechanical feedback should be enough for you to feel its correct. after the cases are mated, re-insert the grubscrew and you should be able to select all gears, and invoke the 5th->reverse protection lock. yes its replaceable. if leaking there already? then replace. otherwise its good insurance but up to you

i\'ve just used a bare stanley blade, petrol and patience. a workshop usually has a similar thing attached to a screwdriver handle the gaskets are fairly cheap. you could probably get away with silicone gasket goo on the last section, i havn\'t used it on the transfer-to-main housing in case of clearance issues

yeah, appears to be a late V2 STI hmm vin comes back as GC8C4ED but i suppose it could be a V2 STI 555 edition which has a roof scoop, but its not an RA