gotasuby

Has the motor got avcs?

Just make sure it a phase 2 motor or it won't work

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/specialist-cars/hot-rods/auction-349789576.htm

?? you running 2.5 gaskets on a 2.0 ??? or just the pic angle ps the rest of that looks MINT Just the pic angle i measured it to be sure and it around the 93mm ID so def 2l Interesting, as it looks like the "fire ring seal area" is miles away from the bore And there is carbon where I'd normally see the fire ring seal marks Anyway - all good CP Pistons in there by the look !? The fire ring is the carbon looking thing you seeing. Genuine subaru seals have the black coating coming off. And yes it is cp pistons in there. Good spotting

?? you running 2.5 gaskets on a 2.0 ??? or just the pic angle ps the rest of that looks MINT Just the pic angle i measured it to be sure and it around the 93mm ID so def 2l

pulled the heads off my motor as i sold short block ;D. this is what 35000km look like on a forged engine 8)

it was a bg5a, now it has a forged motor in it, well no as of 2 nights ago it engineless again

my run around has 380,000km. 2.2l sohc ;D also my car had 240km before i put new motor in, there was nothing wrong with it

you would want at least yellow injectors. and a 90 degree bend on front of turbo. i would keep possum link, where abouts are you in country?

correct but being auto want to have the peak torque as close to 3100 which is stall as possible. they are not going to rev over 5000 ish. if they are restricting it too much then we will use 2x td04's

Awesome jase my mate has a subaru buggy accually two of them but this one has been made from a 1800 leone wagon & 1600 sedan, & it was easy enough to get the wheels spinning on the seal too so this will be alot of fun, the dash from is a russian logging helicopter that crashed over home (the coast -not russia ) & has the motorised lights on top 8) that is my soob in the back groung & in the passengers seat of the buggy is my little brother who is now 19 so its from a while back, they are still parked in the shed on the farm too Yea my mate has a 2 seat one that has a ea82 in it but is underpowered haha. so these ones are going to have 2x vf14s strapped to the side and hoping to get close to 300hp at the crank to give it more up and go and they will be 4 seaters, we are making 2 the same Here is the 2 seat one we have had for a few year ;D well my mate 8) and this is the ground clearance we have managed so far ;D

The ac pump is going to be used as an on board air for compressed air. I'll do a full write up when its done. Using all subaru running gear but from all vehicles from Leone to v8 wrx and svx.

fitted the motor to my project ;D

I wouldn't go one step colder until you go past 20 psi

That's not the fastest. I know myself and 2 friends that havnt put a wrench on car in a year and more power and we far from fastest. Challenge?..............Over 20,000km so far No issues......Maybe the quickest...Eats STI cars!.Any year! Drivable...........bigger turbo could be fitted but then its a pig at 100 k.......block rated for 450 kw. Not easy to achieve hi hp and be able to use it on the road and the track. Up for a challenge!!! if you reckon you have a more reliable drivable one (1991 Wagon fully optioned with air con etc) that's Quicker across the range......Not fastest down 400 metres. See ya at a tar-seal hillclimb!! Oh come on. All these conditions. There's a lot of cars just on here, let alone all of New Zealand, that are both faster than yours and road legal. Having the fastest around a track road legal 1991 wagon with air conditioning that is 'drivable' by your standards in New Zealand isn't really much of a distinction. I've probably got the fastest 2001 STi with a Version 10 back seat and a slight dent in the bonnet and a blue facelift grill in New Zealand, but I don't go crowing about it. lmfao nicely put I fully agree, are we not all here to enjoy our own cars which ever way we choose to modify them or keep them standard??? and to help and respect others and their cars

BTW. Oil does not get thicker as its heated. That would go against the laws of physics. The 2 ratings you see on bottles are not related that's what the w there for. The first number is cold or winter thickness. Lower is better for getting oil in places at startup. The second number is oil viscosity at around 120 degrees. The thicker usually means it can take more pressure before it breaks down. Synthetics have enabled scientists to make a oil that is semi thin when cold but still protects engines when hot. The thiner the engine the better fuel ecconomy and power you will get. Remmember your engine has clearance set for a certain weight of oil so unless you have rebuilt motor I would stick to manufacture reccomendations

I would say check the grounds. Had a problem in a v3 with possum link that ended up being bad earth by battery

Try tweaking idle Rpm when warm as you have a possumlink

Damn

No Auckland. Where abouta? I may need spares haha

What poor SVX donated that.... No idea but I have 2 of them ;D

yes but lines then point toward heads lol

the 250t 95 era and grandwagon rails fit straight on as well and fit the right injectors and fuel lines point same way aswell.

ive had over 35000KM no issues ??? so i just bet that challenge. Now i know for a fact im not a very good racing driver so all thats going to prove having a hill climb race would be you may be a better driver? I have eaten a ferrari f430. well not eaten but faster in a straight line, he would no doubt beat me in corners and braking. my block is rated to what ever it breaks at. I fully agree you need to have everything working in harmony to have a quick street car. My car is very drivable, it take me to work every day and gets 9l per 100km, also nice to drive up and down the country and runs 24psi all day every day but it doesn't make it the best or fastest.

I bought new motors for my "Project" im doing ;D