Stoffa

ok try this Volt Meter Yellow = Lights 12v+ Red = 12v+ (switched ignition) Black = Earth Oil Temp Guage Yellow = Lights 12v+ Red = 12v+ (switched ignition) Blue/White = Earthed AND connected to Blue/White on Black Box White = Temp Sensor Oil Temp Sensor White = Temp Guage Signal Black = Earth Oil Pressure Guage Yellow = Lights 12v+ Red = 12v+ (switched ignition) White = White on the black box Blue/White = Earth AND connected to Blue/White on black box Oil Pressure Sensor Blue = Blue on black box Yellow = White on black box Red = 12v+ (switched ignition) Black = Black in the black box The extra Black wire that runs with the oil pressure sensor loom connects to the wire that WAS connected to your old factory oil pressure switch. The other end of the black wire connects to the black wire in the black box. This is the bit that makes your ECU think the original pressure switch is still connected so it doesn't throw up a fault code. Clear as mud???

you got mail

fun and games, there a few different setups, what guages do you have? If you have oil pressure, do you have the little black box that sits under the guage holder? The little black box allows you to remove the factory oil pressure switch and it sends a signal to the ECU to stop a fault code from popping up. It took me a while to figure it all out and was a PITA but I can definatly help Pm me your email address and i'll send you a subaru factory installation manual, its missing oil pressure but it gives you half of what you need. Where are you based i'm in Welli if what to look at the wiring in person

Vf28's and 29's are basically the same as vf24 but newer and there's heaps of them around, anything under $400 is a pretty good price in good condition. I sold one with 140k's on it and had no shaft play at all

ask at your local radiator shop, koya radiators are available though my local one and not much more than a chinese copy

make sure you check compression ratios out properly if your going to be mixing and matching heads with different blocks.

I've got a adjustable 22mm rear and a 24mm front bar , with coil overs and it works really well, this was the theory I followed when choosing anti roll bars

if you use the correct sealer on the half moons(3 bond 1215 I think it is from memory) it comes of easy as next time, peels in one piece. Just make sure you get ALL of the old sealer off first

did they actually find the problem that caused the engine to run a bearing? Take it to someone who knows what they are doing, i.e ichi ban or a subaru dealer workshop. You'll probably find the fault immediatly once its plugged into a test computer

http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/pre97/Engine.pdf all the DOHC EJ20's are pretty much the same

Have you changed your gearbox fluid lately? My gearbox was quite notchy between the gates when I first got it, I replaced mine with Redline Lightweight Shock Proof gear oil and it sorted it out. Its good for hiding the problem but not fixing it if you dont have a cash to get your box checked out properly

IMPORTANT INFO Wont be an issue on your older legacy, but for anyone else reading this and wanting to start chopping bits off the front of a late model car, take note... If you car is part of the new frontal impact laws, i.e V5 onwards WRX dont chop anything out of the front without speaking to a LVV certification guy, they are very strict on this and if you ever have to cert the car it will fail if they see where you've cut it. If the car ever needs re VINing it may never be able to pass I failed for cutting a piece of steel out about the size of a golf ball, had to get it welded back in, the rules have gotten rather strict over the last few years

I've been told rear thrust are ment to be slightly better, less stress on the main bearings as far as I know, but not really much difference. Talk to your engine builder, aparently you can get your block machined to fit rear thrust but that crank I sold you is centre thrust. But I do have a good rear thrust crank out of a V7 sti if you want/need to swap. If that block you bought is Closed deck it should be centre thrust so what you've got should all match up. IMO its not worth changing to rear thrust, have you ever heard of a main bearing going on a subie engine before a big end? Please bear in mind most of what I know i've read or second hand info, you should always check with whoever is doing your machineing and assembly. They are experts most of the time.

TY754VB1CA.....awesome mines got front helical LSD, I always thought it was just an open diff

it's not that hard, there's a little metal bracket covering a nut/bolt right in the top left hand corner of the unit, I just unbolted the bracket for better access. Now i've finally got those annoying leaves out of my heater as well

if its a spec c it'll have the 12L IC spray bottle in the boot

here's another one http://www.aerosim-research.com/subaru_wide.html

I've looked into this a while ago, i'd love to do it to my coupe but its not cheap Jason Leifting's one (car 22) was actually made with moulds they took from an actual 22B they just custom made the sills (slightly different from actual 22b), he still has the moulds. i'll pm you his email address if you like. He told me the last set they got made up ended up being about $3500, but if you know a boat builder you may be able to get them done a bit cheaper. Ben at Custom Autoworks in upper hutt did falgs and dan curries flared guards (both were actually done in steel) HT Autos in the uk do a kit you can buy http://subarukits.com/index.html, pretty pricey once its landed in nz though.

A mate had some buddyclub coilovers in his V7, they worked well but the rear couldn't be adjusted much lower than factory, there was plenty of thread left for adjustment but the bottom of the struts ended up hitting the CV when they were dropped slightly lower than factory. He got them from a buddyclub dealer, they were definatly the right model (according to the dealer). He was that unempressed he pulled them out and sold them!! If your looking at BC's be careful about which spring rates you get, the older models used to come with 10kg front springs i.e HARD, REAL HARD I've got Teins and I love them, they're rebuildable in nz too

I had a vacuum line pop off my MAP sensor after some mods were carried out and ran a bearing on the track in about 10 mins. I was using an external boost controller forcing it to hold high boost while the ECU thought it wasn't boosting. So not enough fuel causing detonation. and its still in 1000 pieces :'( n.b make sure you use cable ties or clamps on vaccuum lines

definatly VF28 on my V5 type r

easy tiger, they're already up http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=178.135

IMO 45 series look gay on a rex though, sweet as on a legacy. I've got 215 40R17's on my car, 17x8 P50 Rims and they've got heaps of tyre stretch Super lows arn't that low on a rex either.

ok, how about this then.... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/auction-212742478.htm those seats...oh the seats!!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/wrx/auction-224791236.htm awesome