IZichard

As in damage to the leading edge or contact with the compressor housing? Edit: Nvm you said turbine. How bad are we talking? That whole angle shouldn't be there? lol It is such a perfect edge on all of the blades, it feels like it was made like that. What do I know though haha.

The id stamping has worn off this turbo, can't really even see a faint outline. (actually I can just make out a "2" but that doesn't really help since they all have a 2 in that position) So I was hoping someone with a little more experience would have an idea of which turbo it may be. I've narrowed it down to one of vf23,24,28,29 with what I have read online.

I'd believe that, I always buy my Edge 5w40 from supercheap when it is on special with the club deals. I buy it online, I buy at least 2 because then there is free shipping. It is cheaper to buy like that than I can from Repco at trade (for 5L anyway). Supercheap auto don't always have the best prices but they do a hard to beat special on 5L packs of Castrol Edge. Per the original question. I usually research online and buy online since there aren't really any automotive stores near me. If I'm in the city I definitely will buy things in store as it is always nice to check something out before you buy it. I also regularly buy things over the phone for stores that I cannot visit and don't have an online store. Partsouq for oil filters and spark plugs, supercheap for castrol edge on special, repco for a ryco air filter.

Not today but on Sunday I entered my first loose surface event, nothing serious just a grass/dirt autocross. Heaps of fun but I suck at driving like this.... understeer understeer understeer OVERSTEER. I sort of figured out how to start rotating the car under braking towards the end of the session. I definitely need a lot more practice if I want to be competitive. Extra bonus, I didn't break the car!

It sounds like the brushes to me. I'm not sure why your mechanic didn't replace these when he first took it apart as it is a pretty common point of failure for an older starter. Double check you battery connections, the starter ground, engine grounds and the starter positive are all secure and making a good connection first. These can cause similar symptoms. If everything else is all good then get the starter looked at/rebuilt by an auto electrician. You could do it yourself but you will need to find the right size brushes and solder them in which can be tricky. If you are a gambler you can pick up second hand starter motors for dirt cheap. Which may bean easier option. Hope that helps

New: @SpeedySub Yeah picked up some overalls from Resene Hornby. Got that white "the stig" look going on haha

Old: Mitre 10 MEGA Papanui

🙃✋🏻

Forever alone

Very worn out plugs can cause damage to the coil or leads also. The spark attempts to find an easier route to ground than the plug. Would pay to check those for any signs of arcing.

Changed the cambelt, water pump and cam seals on the gc8. Mounted a fire extinguisher on the seat rails in the wagon and changed the oil. Then I washed, clayed and waxed the wagon. Now the paint is all clean you can see all the rock chips from winters down here. It is definitely a ten metre paint job, don't look too close.

Just keep driving it and checking it. Don't fill it up unless it is at or below the L mark and see what happens. If it keeps dropping below the L try bleeding it again. If the car is warm the level in the overflow will be higher and if the car is cold the level will be lower, just so you better understand what you are looking at.

During normal operation the level should move up and down between the L and F marks. The radiator cap will open and close to let coolant in and out of the system as the temperature changes. Are you checking it when it is at the same temperature each time? Was the radiator cap you bought brand new? What pressure is it rated to? I think the STI caps are 1.1bar instead of the usual 0.9bar but i'm not 100% You shouldn't fill it above the full line, there is deliberately room left in the top of the overflow bottle so that the coolant can "overflow" into it as it expands in the cooling system. It would be a good idea to check that the front passenger carpet is dry under the dash. It could also be an air bubble in the system somewhere allowing coolant to boil off. Do you hear a quiet gurgle under the dash when you first start the car?

As title, where did everyone buy their 100% cotton overalls? I checked my local mitre 10 but they only have cotton/poly blend overalls.

Any v8 wrx or sti bumper should work, just needs to be a sedan bumper and of course sedan lights. I've seen people use the v7 bumper but just cut out a small amount so the lights fit. The V9 bumper is slightly different to fit with the small flares on the rear arches so stick to v8.

They basically just bolt the rear subframe to unibody, instead of being connected with the factory rubber bushes. You may need an alignment afterwards as when installing them the subframe can move in relation to the rest of the car.

BP Outback soon to be slammed???

Awesome, can't be a true Kiwi until you have visited the mainland! The best bits are south of Christchurch IMO.

Sorry, I voted for you

You don't clamp onto the actual pulley itself because as cooper found out and you mentioned they crack. You use the vice grips to help tension the belt so that it doesn't jump a tooth when loosening the bolt. I'll try find a picture to help explain. Sorry if I wasn't clear. Like this:

I did mine using the old timing belt like you attempted. I went between the one cam pulley I was working with and the crank but it was a really sh*tty job to do as the cam bolts are ridiculously tight (~70ftlbs iirc). I actually couldn't undo one of my cam bolts and decided to not change the seal on that one because I thought it was going to cause more grief than it was worth.. A small electric impact makes this job much easier provide it doesn't round the internal hex on the bolts. I would have used a cam locking tool but my car has avcs intake cams and the tool I had was made for non-avcs cams meaning it didn't fit. A cam locking tool or an impact makes this easier but it is definitely possible with just the old belt, some vice grips and a breaker bar..

You should really go genuine for the timing gear. Talk to you local Subaru parts place, I think they do a deal for timing belt kits that aren't too dear. They will also be able to give you parts that will be correct.

Tidied up a few things on the GC8 today. Put the front lip back on. Replaced the clock bulb in the gauge cluster so I can actually see what time it is. Removed the Speedline wheels and swapped the tyres over to the Rays Gramlights. Fitted some hubcentric rings into the Rays wheels and bolted them on the car. I also installed some whiteline LCA rear bushes with the offset position for more caster. I still need to give it an alignment. I also noticed one of the front inner CV boots is beginning to split Grrr... I hate CV grease splatter.

If only.... I won't be back in Christchurch until FlatNats so it won't be me.

Ooh, they re-did the carpark! That speed bump looks flash now. Did you Forget about the new one?