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Maybe try take the belt off and see how easily the pump turns by hand. The belt might be slipping because the pump is binding up. I presume you have checked the fluid level/condition?

Today I was driving and had a near miss with a bird... or so I thought. Got back home and opened the bonnet only to have a bird fly out and almost hit me. It got caught by the bonnet scoop and was just sitting on the intercooler for the rest of the drive. Not sure who was more shocked, the bird or me. Spent the next five minutes pulling feathers out of the intercooler fins. #SubaruProblems

+1 for Formatting

Face off between @liddca's stock v4 on the left with my whorey v6 on the right

I changed the gear linkage knuckle in my new subie today. It felt like a hotdog down a hallway before and now it feels nice and tight. It is definitely not a fun job though, very fiddly to do while crawling under the car.

What happened? From that picture it might not be a write off, can't really tell if there are any ripples in the frame from that pic. Depends on the value it is insured for though I guess. Did you drive it home?

If you pull the undertray off and take a look along the bottom of the rocker cover seals on each side you will probably see them weeping a little. Then you will know for sure.

At an educated guess as the exact same thing happened to me plus I've seen it on a bunch of other subies. Rocker cover gaskets? Mine didnt leave any spots on the ground either. It tends to happen around the 150-200,000k mark from what I have read.

Nothing a hammer couldn't fix... Yeah what @94 Leone said. Give them a call and i'm sure they will put it right provided they offer a downpipe that fits correctly.

You need the cool shirts that these guys have!

You can have the windows cracked maybe an inch or so and it is all good. That's if you are moving, not sure about if you are sitting in traffic I usually just rock the A/C

What are you on about? My car has factory monsoons, only small ones. They just attach to the body/A-pillar instead of the door on most cars. You can kind of see them in this pic.

Yeah my first thought was foot on the clutch, doesn't start unless clutch is pressed ALL THE WAY to the floor.

What are the key differences between v4 and v5/6? Different interior and different front end but is there much difference on the mechanical side of things?

I think he means 58psi fuel pressure.

Yeah not driving to Cromwell to get 98 all the time.The wagon runs on 95 at the moment but I want to get the wagon actually tuned for 95 so the ecu isn't fighting det all the time.

Yeah cheers, makes sense. If I pick it up I'll keep it stock

We are talking almost double the price though... I'm still going to check out this wrx, I'll take the advice and try not to put much money into it if I buy it and save for an STI

I'm not really a huge power fiend though. I like going around corners, so i'm not too bothered by the power difference. I do see your point and maybe I will end up regretting it. I'm just not sure it is worth the price difference to me. I have no doubt it is the better car. Back to the original question? Edit: I recognise the brakes, shocks and arms are better too, parts for these are pretty cheap though. I see gc8 alloy arms for $100 pretty often.

I definitely couldn't afford the sti right now they are pretty pricey at the moment, especially v5/6. Convince me why I should keep saving for one.

Yeah, at least that is the plan. Bugeye wagon daily + GC8 fun car. Figured that would make for the dream team.

I'm going to check out a 1999 v5 GC8 WRX soon looking to buy it. I'm not too fluent as to the quirks of GC8s yet as I've never owned one. Is there anything in particular I should look out for? Are there any specific spots that are more susceptible to rust? I know the older wagons often get it around the rear hatch. Of course I'll check obvious stuff like service items, bushes, shocks and general wear/tear. Thanks in advance

I thought they only came factory in the front?

Kits sometimes also come with a new oil cap seal and seal at the bottom of the oil cap stem.

I've read about this problem a little on NASIOC with wagon owners running widened sedan track width. The solution for GG wagon owners running GD sedan rear lateral links was that they needed to swap to longer GD sedan axles. I would imagine when you lengthened the adjustable links on your forester you went wider than the movement in the inner cv on the axle can handle. Similar to the issue with the GG wagon owners on NASIOC. Solutions would be to either get some longer axles, perhaps GD sedan ones if they are compatible with your diff/hubs, or to run less length in your adjustable arms. (i.e. less negative rear camber)